My clutch cable was in need of replacing. So I got a new cable today and installed it. Now, no matter how I adjust it, it seems to be stuck or like I dont even have a clutch at all. Worked fine yesterday. Cant crank it in gear or even roll it in gear. Is there something inside that could have been broken and when I took tension off the clutch that could have caused this problem. And who makes a good ignition cover that is not plastic.
clutch problem
- Thread starter shum8s
- Start date
Are you sure you've connected the cable to the clutch arm correctly? When you pull the cable, does the clutch arm move too? If the clutch arm doesn't move, then you need to unscrew the adjusters some to "lengthen" the cable (this will take up any extra slack in the cable itself). If the clutch arm moves, but your clutch still isn't engaging, let us know and we'll dig more into your problem!
- Thread starter
- #4
The clutch arm is moving. All I did was spread the keeper on the clutch arm, install the new cable, squeeze the keeper a little, hook it up at the lever and took all the slack out. Then I started adjusting on it. And it will not engage the clutch. Im thinking something inside the clutch may be fouled up. I sure hope not. Ive had this bike 1 week and the first thing i was going to replace is the clutch cable and put a new lever/perch on it. This sux. I want to ride. Gonna work on it this morning. Maybe I will find the problem. Would it be a wise thing to go ahead and get a shop manual?
- Thread starter
- #7
I believe I have her fixed now. I started the bike, engaged the clutch and put the bike in gear. The first couple of times when I put it in gear the back tire spun a little and the bike quit. The third time though, she freed up and is now doing fine. What caused the clutch to stick? The last time I rode it she ran like a champ. I had this same thing happen on a Mazda truck once, but in that case I smoooooooked the clutch, hardly the case this time. All I have ever had is 4 strokes, is there something I should know about 2 strokes?
Faded
~SPONSOR~
- Jan 7, 2003
- 842
- 0
First off stop bending anything on your bike. I don't recall anything that requires bending. There should have been a slotted spot on the bottom side that would allow the end of the cable to slide into. I know its sounds kinda confusing, but look at it and maybe you'll see what I mean. Check this again to make sure that the cable is connected correctly.
While you have the cover off, see if you feel confident in removing the rod behind the actuating arm. These can wear out and bend. Roll it on a flat surface to check if it's bent. Call your dealer and get the spec to see if it's worn enough to require replacement. These are usually pretty cheap.
Take the clutch cover off (make sure you've drained the oil). Check the clutch basket 'teeth' for notches made by the clutch plates. If they're bad enough they can cause the clutch to stick. If they aren't too bad you can take a file and file them even (after you remove all the clutch plates). At this point do yourself a favor, especially if you've just picked up the bike - replace (at least) the clutch springs. They are cheap and easy to get at, behind the six (10mm if I remember) bolts. Remeber to remove and reinstal in a star pattern (number them clockwise 1-6 then 1,3,5,2,4, 6).
If you have any questions, need pictures, clarification, specs, etc. Let me know. I can get the specs from the kid I sold my '98 manual to.
While you have the cover off, see if you feel confident in removing the rod behind the actuating arm. These can wear out and bend. Roll it on a flat surface to check if it's bent. Call your dealer and get the spec to see if it's worn enough to require replacement. These are usually pretty cheap.
Take the clutch cover off (make sure you've drained the oil). Check the clutch basket 'teeth' for notches made by the clutch plates. If they're bad enough they can cause the clutch to stick. If they aren't too bad you can take a file and file them even (after you remove all the clutch plates). At this point do yourself a favor, especially if you've just picked up the bike - replace (at least) the clutch springs. They are cheap and easy to get at, behind the six (10mm if I remember) bolts. Remeber to remove and reinstal in a star pattern (number them clockwise 1-6 then 1,3,5,2,4, 6).
If you have any questions, need pictures, clarification, specs, etc. Let me know. I can get the specs from the kid I sold my '98 manual to.
darringer
LIFETIME SPONSOR
- Dec 2, 2001
- 1,029
- 0
Is this only happening when the bike is not running? The clutch will not disengage unless it is running. How much free play is in the lever? I use a nickel between the lever and the perch for the amount of freeplay. I doubt if the clutch was fine before the cable change that anything is wrong with it.
- Thread starter
- #11
Darringer, The clutch will not engage. The cable is not too tight if thats what you are asking. If the clutch basket has notches in it, then I dont believe they are too bad. The reason I say this is because, when the bike is on the stand, the clutch plates seem to stick a little more often. But with my body weight on the bike they free up the instant I let out on the clutch. Someone advised me to change the crankcase oil. Would this help at all and if so, how much and what kind? And if a new clutch is in order, Then I will replace the whole thing, possibly the flywheel too. Any recomendations on flywheels and clutches. I ride the woods some and I am also going to try my hand at motocross for the first time this season. I weigh about 220 lbs if that matters. Thanks
- Thread starter
- #14
I have not changed the oil in this bike yet. The guy I bought this bike from had taken it to the local Honda dealer and had it serviced and got it ready for winter storage. The guy gave me the receipt from the dealer. As to what kind of oil they put in the bike I dont know. I have put about 45 minutes on the bike since I bought it. The mechanic at the dealer told me about every 4 hrs on the oil change. What kind of oil do you guys reccomend? Anyway I rode the bike today and she ran like a champ. Although I still plan to inspect the clutch when I have time. If I continue to ride the bike and there is a problem, could I do damage to anything other than the clutch?
darringer
LIFETIME SPONSOR
- Dec 2, 2001
- 1,029
- 0
I use Honda HP trans oil. 80w/85w. I have had excellent results with it in my CR and 2 previous RMs. My original clutch basket had deep grooves in it and would drag horribly until the bike was thoroughly warmed up. After that it would work OK. I change my tranny oil every other ride. It sounds like the clutch basket is grooved. I would replace the basket and check the inner hub carefully for grooves in that also. I use stock Honda friction plates and steel driven plates instead of the stock aluminum ones. The steel plates don't contaminate the oil nearly as fast and hold up better. Also, if you don't have a repair manual, get one. They are absolutely necessary. Good Luck.
Nevada Sixx
Member
- Jan 14, 2000
- 1,033
- 0
when you fix it, let us know what it was so we can help others with the same problem down the road. where in alabama are you? i live over in tupelo, ms.
