Clutch Travel Adjustment

Re-read that.

No, I haven't myself in quite awhile. Still I'm quite sure the point is the angle the lever should travel through a 90º point where the lever is attached to the cable.

It does not necessarily travel in a 90º arc.

The initial position of the clutch lever (the one going into the case) is determined by shims in the assembly.

I'm assuming a clutch pack within service limits...neither worn too much nor too thick.

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And...with the transmission engaged (in gear), the engine not running and the clutch activated (lever pulled) you aren't going to easily push your bike anywhere. That's because it is a wet clutch. Without 'things' (clutch basket) spinning (engine running) all of the plates are stuck together with oil.

I'm saying it's normal. Don't worry about it. That's why your kdx has an engine!! No need to push it anywhere (hopefully). ;)

I to am having clutch [ Dragging problems] real pain in tha ass. Especially in step down hill switchbacks . I have tried several oil weights; 10-40, 20-50, 15-50 synthetic. Having read other postings about the slight whinning noise in the tranny, and many people say just put more oil in, say maby .9 litre. I have done this and tranny seems to be whine free. Does any one know if this extra oil may be reason ?

layoutd:
I understand what you are saying. I still think you misunderstand.....I think? :think:

Check your manual. If I'm lucky I might even remember to do the same thing...but I don't recall it saying the clutch activation lever should move 90º.


Your lever should be placed such that it has the 90º line in the middle of travel. That's what the shim(s) do. Keep in mind there also may be no shims to get to that suggested angle.

After install of Vesrah plates in my bike I ended up removing the one oem shim my bike had to get to the suggested geometry. That's because those plates are a bit on the thick side. Well...that and being brandy new.

'Extra' oil does indeed quiet the kdx clutch...generally the clattering racket inherent to the kdx.

While not 100% true it's a pretty safe bet that if your clutch is working properly it's adjusted ok. Properly in this case meaning there is no slippage when you disengage (couple engine/tranny) the clutch and you can shift when the clutch is engaged (uncouple engine/tranny).

Of course you can shift with no clutch just as well, loads taken into account...shift drums and forks taken into consideration.