Consenus on clutch fluid ?

[ScottS]

Dragged the 620 out tonight to give it a once over - it will be a guest bike for my brother in law next week - and wouldn't you know that I rode it about a mile and the clutch went away- no leaks etc I am thinking because it has been sitting maybe there is some air in the system because the seals were dry and stiff andthe first few times it moved it sucked in a little air ? (Magura Hymec)

:bang: Anyway , I have read the posts about bleeding thrugh the bleed fitting with a syringe - I am all set to do that but I have read about mineral oil, fork oil , ATF etc etc

anyone have any input- are these all compatible or will i have to completely purge the old fluid ( sounds like I should anyway)

And how does this stuff happen when the bike is not being ridden anyways :bang:

also , anyone know if he rear wheel bearings on a 96 LC4 would be the same as a 2001 MXC ? I bought the bearings for the 2001 but it turned out it was the shock heim that was the problem- but noticed today the rear wheel bearings on the 620 are toast- would be great if I could use the ones I already bought

 

[cdcracing]

Whatever it says on the mastercylinder that is what I would stay with . That is what KTM and all the other companies pay the big buck to there enginers for . I would only use what they say . Better to be safe than sorry . Good luck

 

[ScottS]

Guess I answered my own question on the beraings- the 620 has a bunch of stuff related to the cush drive that the EXc does not have Oh Well

 

[Layton]

Use ATF or fork oil. Either will work.

 

[Jaybird]

Whatever it says on the mastercylinder that is what In would stay with . That is what KTM and all the other companies pay the big buck to there enginers for . I would only use what they say . Better to be safe than sorry . Good luck

I think you'll find that the "big bucks" are what Fluid Mfg's pay the bike builders to tout their fluids. As long as the fluid fits the specification of the component, it is fine. Mfg's don't pay big bucks to engineers to find the very best fluid or lubricants that could possibly be used. They simply set specifications that must be met, and the fluid makers do the engineering.
If you see a bike MFG touting Shell products, you can bet that Shell went after them, not the other way around.

The Magura clutch is not a rocket component.
Using 1.50 qt ATF is absolutely fine, and much more economic than using $20 qt. Magura Blood.

 

[hoosierf]

Good ole baby oil is mineral oil with fragrance. That's what I use with no problems.

 

[ScottS]

Cool- it will even smell nice.

 

[Jaybird]

I've always been leary of using "baby oil" type products. It's possible that the fragrance and/or other additives (lanolin, etc...) could do harm to the seals. Who knows, maybe not.
One thing I can assure you is that ATF does not harm the seals, it also lessons the pull slightly from OEM fluid.

 

[KaTooMer]

Fork oil - cheap stuff, whatever you can find. Six years and counting, never a problem.

 

[ScottS]

You know I am such a tard- the 300 has the new style magura clutch, the 620 has the old style with the little baby cylinder- I have to take it off the bike to bleed- that's going to be a bummer it is really buried in there- I opened up the resevoir and it was low, but I see no leaks- because the cylinder is all external you think I would have seen some leakage- the cover seemed to be loose- teh screws were not real tight, wonder if it leaked out of the cover and the wind blew it away before I coudl see it. Anyways I topped it up and got a lot of the travel back- will have to see tomorrow if it works

 

[lawman]

better check the o-ring on the slave that keeps the oil from leaking into the engine, that is probably where it is going. It is cheap & easy to fix, since you will know that the o-ring is the same 1 that fits behind the bushing on the countershaft. your dealer will tell you that the clutch slave o-ring is available only as part of a ktm clutch rebuild kit, but now you, as a loyal drn member, know better than that!

I use fork oil in mine, but have used drug store mineral oil in a pinch, with no apparent ill effects.

 

[lawman]

Upon reflection, I should qualify this a little: I forgot that you have a 620, and may have a different clutch than I am used to, & may take a different 0-ring than what fits on your countershaft.

 

[ScottS]

yes i have the retrofit hydraulic- a teeny little hydraulic cylinder that pulls the clutch arm just like the cable used to - it is all exposed so any leaks would be obvious

I think I answered my question about where the fluid went- I forgot as the clutch wears the cylinder will take up the slack- the system holds so little oil that the extra volume caused the level to drop in the resevoir and then it couldn't move far enough to disengage the clutch.

Adding more fluid lookd like it may have fixed it, but I will probaly be looking at new clutch plates soon- the orginal clutch is in the bike,and it has been going for 8 years so i guess i shouldn't complain .
But I really appreciate your ideas and help- thanks !