On the creek crossing (if it is of somewhat decent size) look for the ripples. That usually means it is the low part. And darker colored water (bluish green) is usually the deeper part. I'm not the best at logs, but just try to loft the front wheel enogh to wear you at least hit it higher than the center of the fallen tree. And Rail Road tracks. Well, I usually try to stay away from those. But I guess if a guy had a couple of spotters, he could use the inclines (if their were any) on both side to jump the tracks:eek:
It's cliche, but still waters run deep. If you are crossing a stream and there is a spot were it is not moving, it is usually a hole. Also, even if it is not a hole, where the water is not moving or is moving slower than the rest is where all the silt and slippery stuff settles.
RR tracks, I aviod them. When I can't I walk the bike over. Never step on top of the tracks, it is slick steel and very slippery (like ice) to most boots.
Logs, loft the front wheel, stay on the pegs, give it some gas, pick self and bike up from other side of log and keep riding.
If you're racing and have other bikes close by, pull over and let a bike or two by to see who much trouble they have. It is definately worth the lost time to have a "guide".
I pulled over in front of a long mud hole just to get a better look at what line I was going to take and some guy came ripping by me and thru the mud, 1/2 way thru his bike sunk seat high. He took the line I "was thinking of taking". I took a different line and I never did see him again...
Take the time and get off your bike to take a look if you have to.
when crossing logs or tracks keep you weight centered on the bike, this way if something should happen to slide one way or another you can shift you weight more effectively. Tracks are tricky, if you can find a crossing by all means use it, if not hit them perpendicular to the track, and try to keep the front lofted until it's over the second track, then just ride normally. Good luck :)
Railway tracks look intimidating but they are really not that bad. Just think of them as two small logs running parallel to each other and as with most other obstructions, it's critical to have enough forward momentum. I like to get a little back of center, get the front light, grab some throttle and you'll pop right over. Done right, you won't even touch the second rail. I don't think I'd want to do it on a mini though.:confused:
Every time I go riding I have to cross tracks were I live.
They are pretty easy once you get the hang of it.
I give myself a little space and hit the tracks on an angle. not too much maybe about a 60 degree angle. pop the first tire over clutch it then a little burp again on the throttle to get the tire over the other.
And if all else fails. push the front over, pick the back end up swing it over the second set of tracks and pull the front tire over the second "ha ha":cool:
If you are wondering why I hit it on an angle because the the front and back tire will rest right on the inside and outerside of the tracks. spinning your rear tire on the steel. on the angle will allow your back tire to get up on top the the first track so you won't get stuck easy. Try it a couple of times to get a feel at it. You'll find your own little technique with clutch and throttle control.
Just make sure you go over it easy. I've tried the other way not very pleasant. Had to buy a new rim.
good luck
I commonly cross railway tracks and have never bent a rim or ripped a knob off a tire using the method I previously described. To save your tire, get off the gas as soon as your front is clear. Hitting RR tracks on an angle is something I wouldn't recommend.
If it is a bigger one (diameter of log > radius of front wheel) then you actually want to hit the log with your front wheel. Pick your front wheel up when you are the height of the log away from the log, and drive the front wheel into the log about 2/3rds the way up the log. This will compress the back end and cause the bike to hop up onto the log, rather than slamming your back wheel into it.
If you clear the log with the front wheel, then the back just slams into it and brings the front wheel down and your frame rails onto the log. Try the technique above - I was going over 30 inchers the other day this way on my XR250. You will feel the back end spring up, and you want to unweight as it does it. In truth, you actually help compress the rear end with your weight in that brief moment while the front wheel is off the ground and heading for the log.
Try it, you'll figure it out! Go just fast enough to keep from stalling as opposed to using a bunch of speed.
You can wack the first track and never touch the seconed one.
There is a section where I go that is all rocks with tracks on top and all I do its nail it in 3-4th gear with a blip and I don't touch a single track.
One day I tried it slow and straight on and as soon as your rear tire hits so does your front. Kinda cool though.
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