Damping ramps?

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Shawn Mc

Member

Apr 8, 2002

152

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• Jul 3, 2002

• #1

Enzo did my fork and shock. I got the shock figured. Works bitchen. The fork is puzzling. At 10 out on the compression, it feels like its broken. Doesnt move unless I auger the thing in off a 60+ footer. Then and only then, is it plush. Small stuff, breaking and acceleration bumps, at 10 out, will knock our hands off the bars. At 12 out, it rattles your teeth in the bumps, but you can hang on for a few laps, big hits are like landing on a down comforter. At 14 out, big hits still ok, but not like 12, small bumps still harsh. I havent tried 16 out because I dont want to experience what that might be like on a big hit.
My question: Is this what the Enzo sub tank helps with? Basic mid stroke harshness?

 

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shockdoc

Member

May 3, 2001

327

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• Jul 3, 2002

• #2

Sounds more like you may have R/S fork binding issues. Make sure its not binding and put your forks at about 10mm up from the top of the triple clamp. If you still have a prob I would give them (Enzo) a call to discuss it.



doc

 

Jeremy Wilkey

Owner, MX-Tech

Jan 28, 2000

1,453

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• Jul 5, 2002

• #3

Very solid advice..

 

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Shawn Mc

Member

Apr 8, 2002

152

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• Jul 8, 2002

• Thread starter
• #4

Feeling stupid right now. Whats R/S?
What am I looking for when I raise the fork height, bent leg? I thought of doing this before to quicken the steering. But Id like to know why IM doing something so I know what its supposed to do. If I know how something is supposed to work, I can figure out the problem, without a doubt.

 

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shockdoc

Member

May 3, 2001

327

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• Jul 8, 2002

• #5

R/S = right side. Put your bike on a stand. Loosen the 2 R/S axle pinch bolts. Carefully hammer a straightblade screwdriver into the gap between the bolts. If your forks are binding you will see the fork "pop" into place. Move the bottom of the fork back & forth a little and you will see the fork "center" itself. Measure 10mm from the top of your fork cap to the top of the triple clamp. Make sure your pinch bolts are torqued to proper settings. Set your clickers to where they recommend and see how they work.


doc

 

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Shawn Mc

Member

Apr 8, 2002

152

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• Jul 9, 2002

• Thread starter
• #6

I reset the fork in the clamps, they were at 9mm, I set them at 12. I was going to do this anyway. I also reset the axle pinch bolts. Now I'll give it a try when this heat wave breaks.
Here is a question: If I drop the fork in the clamp, other than quickening the steering, and the whole headshake issue, is a forseeable damping change happening at the same time?
The reason I ask, I read the posts about guys going to the shorter clamps on the CRF's and having the clicker settings go out the window. And as I dropped the fork in the clamp, Im wondering if Im now out in left field as the result of changing two things at once, especially since I know better.

 

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shockdoc

Member

May 3, 2001

327

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• Jul 9, 2002

• #7

The changes you talk about on the CRF are changing the steering angle. Raising or lowering your forks in the stock clamps won't have such a drastic change as changing the clamps. You may have to change a click or 2 but it won't be out in left field as you think.

PS...(Raising) not lowering your forks quickens your steering response.


doc

 

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Shawn Mc

Member

Apr 8, 2002

152

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• Jul 9, 2002

• Thread starter
• #8

I mis-stated what I have done. There was 9mm out of the top, now there is 12mm out of the top. I dropped the clamp on the fork 3mm from where it was previously.
But thanks a bunch Shockdoc, I appreciate your responces. Now Im all fired up to go ride it again, heat wave or not!

 

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shockdoc

Member

May 3, 2001

327

0

• Jul 9, 2002

• #9

Just wondering......did you find that your R/S fork was bound up?



doc

 

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Shawn Mc

Member

Apr 8, 2002

152

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• Jul 11, 2002

• Thread starter
• #10

I didnt really notice it being severly bound. The axle seemed to move maybe half a mm if that but it didnt "pop" when I loosend it. Usually when I assemble the front, I snug the leftside nut, then bounce the front up and down a couple times to set things and then snug the pinch bolts. Thats the reason I was asking about damping ramps. Even just sitting, when I pull the brake and compress the fork, it seems to be fairly plush until you get to about 50% of the stroke and then it really gets harsh. The showa on my CR500 isnt so harsh, very linear. This is the first Kayaba fork Ive ever owned, so I dont really know what its capable of.

 

Jeremy Wilkey

Owner, MX-Tech

Jan 28, 2000

1,453

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• Jul 12, 2002

• #11

Guys as a precheck to your bike set-up make sure that your axle clamps are dent and burr free... That axle should be able to slip in and out easy.. Here is a fork that had had 3 or 4 tunners work on it. The front end was so bound up the the guy was gonna sell it giving up... With a rat tail file we fixed it and he was golden...

BR,
Jer

 

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Shawn Mc

Member

Apr 8, 2002

152

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• Jul 12, 2002

• Thread starter
• #12

I never really thought of cleaning up the pinch area. This is another golden example of KISS. Keep It Simple Stupid! Thanks Jeremy!

 

Jeremy Wilkey

Owner, MX-Tech

Jan 28, 2000

1,453

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• Jul 12, 2002

• #13

No worries! And your welcome.

 

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CanadianRidr

Sponsoring Member

Oct 22, 2001

2,018

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• Jul 12, 2002

• #14

Jer if you remembered my axle is not going in and out of my fork smooth :( I think it's a result of over torquing. Can I use 400 grit sand paper instead of a file?

 

Jeremy Wilkey

Owner, MX-Tech

Jan 28, 2000

1,453

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• Jul 12, 2002

• #15

CR,
You can but that will take some work, and you risk taking more than the high spots off.. As long as your careful you'll be fine..

BR,
Jer

 

J

JTT

~SPONSOR~

Aug 25, 2000

1,407

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• Jul 13, 2002

• #16

Originally posted by CanadianRidr
Jer if you remembered my axle is not going in and out of my fork smooth :( I think it's a result of over torquing. Can I use 400 grit sand paper instead of a file?

Click to expand...

Try wrapping it around a dowel or similar. This will give you a relatively straight surface and help some.

 

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slideways11

Sponsoring Member

Apr 18, 2000

411

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• Jul 13, 2002

• #17

I use valve grinding compound on mine. Not only does it clean it up to let the axle slide through easily it gives you an almost perfect match between the axel and the clamp.

 

Jeremy Wilkey

Owner, MX-Tech

Jan 28, 2000

1,453

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• Jul 13, 2002

• #18

SW11,
Really cool idea!!!
What grit? I use a 400 Clover compound on piston faces, but I'm not sure that would "bite" enough on steal parts..

BR,
Jer

 

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CanadianRidr

Sponsoring Member

Oct 22, 2001

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• Jul 13, 2002

• #19

So Jeremy what do you recomend? I didn't really want to sand the forks but the binding is driving me nuts.
I was told to use Valve Lapping fluid from a fairly smart member, would this work good?

See I can't really see any high spots, I believe some metal is out of whack from over clamping the axle nut.

And what is doweling? :ugg:

Oh and PS, is there different grades of valve lapping fluid?

 

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slideways11

Sponsoring Member

Apr 18, 2000

411

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• Jul 14, 2002

• #20

Jer The valve grinding compound I use is graded G and F.The G is coarse for your initial cut and the F is fine for a nice finish. Put the axle nut on, put an air wrench on it give it a quick spin and its a done deal.Or you can lap it in by hand with a socket wrench.

 

J

JTT

~SPONSOR~

Aug 25, 2000

1,407

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• Jul 14, 2002

• #21

Sorry, doweling is round piece of wood stock....basically a stick. You can buy them in various sizes and was thinking you could likely fine one about the same size as axle to wrap the sandpaper around, making a sanding block sort of arrangement. Check with your local hardware store or building supply store...should be had for $1-2.