drz 400 probs

My list of DRZ problems (after 1.5+ years of ownership and ~2,000 hard, woods miles).

-return throttle cable breaks on ALL DRZ's.
-the timing chain adjuster spring broke(at 12,000ft non-the-less).
-intake valves are very soft. I've replaced mine already. Use a lead substitute
-starter wires are thin......be careful with zip ties.
-the bike comes horribly lean and MUST be rejetted if you remove the air box restrictor and/ or do anything to the pipe.
-shrouds stick out too far.... I have bent the radiators on numerous occas.
-stock bars SUCK BIG TIME !!
-don't leave the key on and don't charge the battery with a "regular" charger..... my garage STILL smells like rotten eggs :)

What is GOOD about the bike:
-I have yet to replace the fork seals !!
-I have yet to have a wheel bearing go bad!!
-zerk fittings on the suspension linkage :)
-smooth power
-aftermarket pipes help only a little(stock pipe is good).
-suspension is very good(after you put about 20cc more oil in the forks)



With all that said, I'm very pleased with the bike. I've put some hard miles on it and it really has done very well.

I've had even fewer problems with mine than Dr.billZ since i bought it in March of 2000. I had to replace one radiator, both shrouds (Cycra tuck in well), and the clutch cover due to crash damage (not all at once). I had to replace the battery after the first year, maybe because it sat for three months, knee injury induced, not from crashes listed above. I've changed the jetting, springs, fork oil, bars, tires, etc. Still running the original chain and sprockets and brake pads, but I'll change them soon. I've ridden the bike hard for the past year and a half including seven enduros, five hare scrambles and numerous trail rides before moving to TN last month. I'm riding the MSHSS series now, so I have not been gentle with it. I even towed an XL500 out of some dificult trails near Georgetown without even the clutch slipping. Take your bike back to the dealer and let them fix it. The warranty is great.

DRZ Problems

I have owned my DRZ400E since April of 2000. It has spent most of its life on the trails of Indiana, southeastern KY., and W. Va.I have also ran it in about 6 B class harescrambles.Modifications are few. First I removed the air box snorkle, and counter shaft cover. I then rejetted to a 155 main and dropped one clip pos. on the needle.I also installed a UNI filter.Luckily before a cold weather trip in the mountains, I installed the Suzuki kick start kit which includes a decomp. mechanism.The DRZE does not like to start with the electrics after a night below freezing but will fire right up with the kicker. I have only broke down once after two consecutive weeks racing in the mud. Apparently the mud cakes up behind the counter shaft gear which forces it's way into the seal. When this happens most of the engine and trans. oil is blown out in a matter of a couple minutes.Shut er down quick.Other people have had this prob. too. The mud seems to bring the temperature to a boil easily if you move to slow. I may try a higher pressure rad. cap for trailriding.Make sure to keep the coolant hose clamps tight and add a zip tie or two. I also added saftey wire after pushing a hose off against a stump. A Moose skid plate was installed to protect the cases and hoses although when working thru ruts I prefer the narrower stock set-up.The seat cover is junk so after shredding it I went with a tough as nails cover made by GUTS and distributed by THUMPER and BAJA Designs. I put a set of FMF 909 Bars on with Answer Barkbusters and they both have proved to be very strong. I would like to move the bars forward with a new top clamp. The radiator shrouds are to wide and have been ripped off. My radiators are still very straight though due mostly to a guard/brace of my own design.E-mail me at pntnshoot@aol.com if you would like details on the special guard.I am also working on new heavy duty side covers to replace the fragile magnesium OEM parts. The bike is still on its original chain and rear sprocket. I have changed the countershaft sprocket twice to increase chain life.I opened up the clutch recently for inspection and found it to be in very good cond. Remove your $140.00 head light and replace it with a cheap one until you really need the high output stock one. This bike eats 756 rear tires but they do work exceptionally well on a wide range of surfaces.The suspension works very well in most trailriding situations but shows its weaknesses when the pace is picked up in a harescramble. It sstill is not bad though. I have raised the oil level in the fork and run the compression damping near its upper limit on ft. and rear. I am going to send the suspension to Thumper in the near future for revalving and stiffer springs to match my 190lbs.Overall this has been a very reliable fun bike and I love the electric start.

my 01 400 e dirt had both compression rings stick in the piston

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Has the shop disassembled it yet?

Here's what to look for:

Glazed cylinder - Means it was running synth oil for break-in, or excessively rich (fuel wash).

Corrugated Oil Ring - End tab or tabs broken off. Ends should butt up like this UU, Not like this L_ . If ends don't butt up, then it means the ends were overlapped on installation. Other reason for a broken end is over-rev, but I don't thing you've done this with only 40 miles on the bike :D

Oil Ring Collapse- if it's the oil ring, they collapse if there's been blow-by and excessive heat. This can be caused by an incorrectly bored cylinder (out of round or hourglass shaped), which could have been done at the factory. Or crud ingested into the bore.

Ring actually stuck to piston - Ring grooves too skinny. Broken ring lands (area between the rings pressing down on lower ring). Broken ring lands can occur with detonation and/or overheating.

I'll be curious to know what the shop found out.

If it were me, I'd ask to be there when they pull the piston out so I could look at it myself
:eek:

I sure hope you dont get stuck paying a dime for any of it.

that both compression rings were stuck in the piston

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Most likely cause for this is a lean seizure, crummy fuel, or incorrect ignition timing.

You probably won't hear detonation on this machine, unless it's really bad.

It would be good to get a look at the piston/rings. What you will probably see is alum. from the exhaust side slid down and covered the rings, this is what's holding them in.

If it's the intake side only, it could be an air leak. If it's both sides, it's just a lean seizure that's taken longer to die.

i hope it isnt from high crankcase pressure

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Nope, it's not. The bolts are either not torqued to spec, or the re-used your gaskets. Take it back and make them do it right!

I've gotta ask the boss about carbon in the ring lands - I've never seen that myself.