Filter oil, and torque spacers

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Feb 21, 2001
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#1
Would K&N air filter oil be suitable for reoiling foam filters? I have some around the garage for my truck, and wouldn't mind being able to buy one product for both rides...

Also, can someone here with a torque spacer tell me how thick they are? I have almost free access to a full machine shop, and thought I might make my own (by patterning the gasket to a piece of aluminum stock). I just need to know approx. how thick they normally are...

thanks
 
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Jun 2, 2001
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#2
As far as the oil goes, the k&n should do fine. (I've used it without problems)
You can also use any 2-stroke oil I believe.:scream:
 
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#3
I thought it was written somewhere the K&N oil was not for foam filters.

“Torque spacers” on the intake are a bit sus. The idea is to lower the crankcase volume a bit, don’t let me stop you experimenting but I doubt your guess for thickness will be any more scientific than the company selling them.

Putting a spacer in the exhaust side however is worthwhile as an experiment, basically it lengthens the header pipe & the pipe length total, boosting bottom at the expense of top end. If this is acceptable 5-6mm would be a good place to start. Or just throw in an extra gasket. Expect a shift of about 2-300rpm.

Would also look at skimming the head to increase the compression ratio if bottom end & further up improvement is what you seek. However this should also coincide with a few strategic measurements to ensure you aren’t going to get in trouble with squish clearance & the type of fuel you wish to run.
 
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#4
I thought it was written somewhere the K&N oil was not for foam filters.

It may very well be... I was basically wondering if anybody else used it. Perhaps I'd be just as well to stick with regular filter oil...

I was curious about the spacer thickness to make sure everything went together ok about as much as i was for functionality. IE, if i make myself a 3" spacer, things probably won't bolt together well (yes that's an exaggeration but it's for illustrative purposes...:D

thanks
 
Joined
Oct 14, 1999
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#5
You can also use any 2-stroke oil I believe
Any oil would be better than NO oil..but check the end result of: 1. A properly used foam filter oil, and 2: A filter oiled with any 'regular' (2-stroke, say) oil, and you'll see a huge difference.

Filter oils these days are sticky, tacky messes.........and that's the whole idea.

Seeing as you should be cleaning the thing at least every other ride, then the cleaning process becomes part of the choice in filter oils.

Try no-toil if you haven't already. Cleaning filters becomes a snap...so maybe you'll do it more often.
 
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Aug 30, 1999
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#6
Personally I love NoToil's filter oil. It works great and it's much easier to clean up than most oils are. After each race I just wash it out in the kitchen sink. Putting the oil on is just as messy as any other oil, but the easy cleanup / lack of mess really makes a difference. Their website is out of service right now (they had problems with their internet provider) but you can call them at 877-668-6451 or email them at notoil@inreach.com.

There's information at:
http://www.cyclelogical.net/notoil.htm
 
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#7
Dave, the dimensions for the torque ring are as follows: OD is 1.797. ID is 1.493. Thickness is .210. These were taken with dial calipers on a Fredette Torque Ring.

As far as the oil thing, I have tried many different oils and the one that works best for me is the No Toil. It is very gooey and cleaning the filter is no longer a hassle. You can buy directly from them in bulk.

Hope this helps,

Brenda
 
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#9
How can I get a hold of them to buy in bulk?

Filters? Torque rings?:scream: From Yahoo yellow pages.......

No-Toil Industries

3076 Colusa Hwy
Yuba City, CA 95993
(530) 671-4645


I'm pretty sure they are a .com site...although I'm getting a 'can't load page' error. Notoil.com? No-toil.com? Something like that.

They have an 800 # too. Although I'm not getting that either.

You can thank me for all the help later!! :D
 
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Feb 21, 2001
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#10
Brenda,

Is that torque ring aluminum? Is it just basically a big washer (i.e., there's no special features, just an ID, an OD, and a uniform thickness)?? That'd be even easier to make than the spacer. Does it just slip in between the pipe and the cylinder?

My bike came with a PC Platinum pipe, and I'd like to lower the band just a bit. Does the torque ring require a rejet?

thanks
 
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Jun 20, 2001
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#11
The Ring only costs $ 8.95..Probably cheaper to buy then build....We Men are nuts...We will spend $30.00 to make something we can buy for less then $10.00......Go figure!:silly:
 
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#12
Because if you have a lathe & some ally stock lying around it will cost $0 + quarter of an hour & you can say (whilst thumbing the straps of your dungarees & looking as proud as a kid inspecting the contents of his potty) “I did build that I did”.

Your own labour rate is somewhat cheaper then you would accept from your place of employment. Heck I remember porting my first barrels (iron sleeved at that) with a file, what a miserable slow job that was.
 
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Feb 21, 2001
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#13
Well, I do have free access to a lathe (like I said, an entire machine shop), and all the stock I need.

I'm employed by the school (university), and sometimes I'm at work and don't really have anything to do, so my co-workers and I occupy ourselves by working on small personal projects like this one. I'd actually be getting paid my hourly wage while making it...:D

thanks