FRP top Triple clamp, what else do i need?

[James51381]

i was wondering if there was anything else i need to put this on my bike. i have a renthal handle bar (not a fat one). any bushings? thanks a lot

 

[limitless]

Is it new or what? If it is you should be good, just grease all the bearings and check all your screws & bolts (for heaven sake USE A TORQUE WRENCH!)

If your just hoppin it up - FMF pipe (and posibly silencer) - drill the airbox lid - mx-tech revalve - you could have it ported (lots-o-power) - uni-air or twin air filter - bore the carb to 36mm (or use one off a junked kdx200, wich is 35 mm) - jet the carb correctly!! - a gripper seat? - new graphics - an mx rear fender & front # plate - Scotts stearing stabilizer?(450$)

and get the corect springs for your weight & set the race sag & free sag!

Good luck with the new (?) bike!!

 

[James51381]

thanks for the adivse, but I messed up, its not a top tripple clamp, its just the bar that holds down the handle bar :(
so far I Have a Pro ciruite pipe fmf silencer, v-force reed cage, 49 tooth rear sprocket, regina gold chain, stock carb is getting jetted as we speek. I weight about 140 pounds, should i be ok with stock suspension?

besides the snorkel how else can i modify the air box?
any more hidden tips?
thanks

 

[srhill]

Re: Airbox. Take a 3/4in. drill bit and drill several holes in the top of the airbox lid. Or, just remove the lid altogether and relocate the CDI box. As limitless suggested replace your stock air filter with a Uni or twin-air filter.

stock carb is getting jetted as we speek.

Are you doing the rejetting yourself or is someone else? The reason I ask is if you just took your carb to someone else you may or maynot get the results you are wanting. Each bike and each rider are different and should be jetted accordingly, and who else is better to decide what that is than you. I am saying this and the last time I took mine out it ran like crap. But 40 degree temp. swings between rides will make it do that if you don't take the time to rejet. :confused:

Sounds like you are off to a nice start with you mods. Enjoy :thumb:

 

[James51381]

I took my bike to a good motorcycle mechanic. I have also seen some bikes with holes on the side of the air box with a filter plug type thing, is this something i could benifit from, after i take of the lid?

 

[limitless]

As far as your suspension - For the front I would recomend you move up to .33 KG springs (thats best for people 140-170#, stock springs work best for people under 140#). For the rear you should prolly get 4.6 KG spring (works best for riders under 150#, the stock springs work best for riders between 180-210#).

The idea of drilling the air box is to get more air in without allowing any additional dirt in (keep that in mind).

www.justkdx.com - Has some good info on hop-ups!
www.eric-gorr.com - Has some really good info about jetting & everything else.....Maybe you should buy his book?

I think with the additonal power you have added to the bike you would really benifit from the new springs and an mxtech revalve! It is expensive, but totaly worth it from what I hear. I will get it done as soon as I have the money.


You need to learn to jet, like srhill said, the only way for a mechanic (even the best ones) to get it perfect is for them to watch and study you actually ride. (they have to study all different aspects of your riding) I know I don't have the money for that.

Good luck,
Tom


BTW - How do you like the pro circut pipe? How was the fit? Is it for low-end or top-end? The silencer?

 

[DougD]

to modify the airbox lid cut it in half behind the lip and remove the back half with the snorkle.This mod will still provide some water protection for the airfilter and you don't have to relocate the ignition module.The back half can also be reinstalled if ever nessessary.