Getting another KDX

It has been quite a while since I have been in this forum, but I am back. I owned a 1996 KDX200 (with a pipe, and RAD valve) and sold it many years ago. I have since owned quite a few other bikes (KTM 300, CR250, Husky 410, DRZ400S, CR500, etc.) and an opportunity arose that has allowed me to purchase another KDX 200. This one is a 2004, with a Baja Designs Dual Sport kit on it. I should be taking delivery of it at the end of this month as my older brother has picked it up for me and he is down in VA (I am in MA).
I am looking forward to getting this bike as, of all of the bikes I have owned, the KDX is the one that I should never have let go (my CR500 runs a close 2nd).
I am uncertain if I will modify this one at all, as it has the stock pipe and silencer and I quite enjoy the stealth.
I am very happy to be back!
Greg

Heh. I was waiting for someone to ask that question. Yes. The KTM 300 was large and unweildly compared to the KDX. I could never come to terms with the powerband. Even after installing a V-Force reed cage, the KTM still had a lag. It was also a total PITA to work on and not nearly as reliable as the KDX. Rear brake pads seemed to last only one or two rides.
That said, my KDX also had a short lag between the low end and top end that I could never get rid of. I had an FMF pipe, a Turbine core silencer (that I had modified into a "shorty") and a RAD valve on my '96. I felt as though the power valve may have been opening a bit too late and was thinking of replacing the governer balls with tungsten ones, but I never got that far.
The trails around here are gnarly and tight, and I have not found a bike that works better than the KDX.

Well, I do not actually have my "new" KDX yet, but speaking from experience from my '96, yes, there was definately a "hit" when the valve opened. The pipe and RAD valve surely contributed to it. Anyway, I can remember becoming just a bit irritated that the valve would stay closed just a little bit too long, as it started revving into the top end. I hope it is not just me, but I could actually hear the change in pitch when the valve opened. At one point, it bothered me enough that I pulled the whole top end apart to clean everything. That helped, but I could still feel the valve lagging behind just a bit.
Another thing that I noticed was that, as the valve parts got dirty, the valve would open very late until all of the oily gunk that was coating the parts was warmed up to temperature (usually a good 5 or 10 minutes of riding).
Just before I sold the bike, I was considering pulling the top end apart again, cleaning everything really well, then spraying them with Pam or some other anti-stick cooking formula. I never got the chance to try it, though. Perhaps with my new KDX, I will do this right off the bat.

SR5 - Crisco? Sure! That stuff comes in a spray as well! BTW - Do you own an SR500? Nice bikes...
Julien, one thing I never tried was changing the needle to aleviate this flat spot. Please let us know if you have success with different needles!
I should be getting my "new" KDX this weekend. Already, my 20 year old daughter has asked me if she can have it! She rides a Lime Green Ninja 250 now, but she got her training on bikes. She rode a PW50, a PW 80 (in a Nervous Novice Enduro), then a Blaster (for learning clutch work). I would love to get her back into the dirt, but I had targeted the KDX for me! LOL! I would be a very happy man if she started dirt riding with me! Never mind that it would give me a reason to hold on to my DRZ-S....