Getting my CR500 ready for the woods

If it doesn't have a flywheel weight , get one - Steahly are the easiest as you can fit it yourself.

13/49 gearng is pretty good for the tight stuff and you still have OK top speed. 14/51 is a little faster than that and 13/51 is for the really slow stuff.

Race Tech bushings in the front forks make a big difference. I have used Gold Valves and been pretty happy with them in the forks too, but they are not your only option - many tuners can make them work well.

As Papakeith said, Welcome to the 500 club. (it takes a different breed:p )

*Skid plate & Bark busters for sure (as RM_guy said)
*I use 14/49 gearing-really spreads the power out, I ride mostly in the mountians,tight and tech.,but I clutch some also.
*Get a Brake Snake, the rear pedal arm is butter.
*Remove the chain cover over the countershaft sprocket, it clogs VERY badly with mud. But keep the case guard underneath.
*A set of lower,flatter,less pull-back Renthal Alum.bars helps the handling and takes out most of the vibration in your hands.
*With the correct jetting and ANY amount of throttle, you CAN't make it bog down and high gearing keeps the power smooth, so I don't run a flywheel weight.
*Correct sized springs are a must.
*Start adjusting with the rebound soft, they have too much from the factory for the woods.
*Nothing eats tires,chains,and sprockets like a CR500,you'll save money in the long run by buying top quality chains/sprocket.(I use PBI/RK O'ring)
*Forks have too much intial high speed damping,combined with too soft springs,means alot of shearing off of wet roots. A revalve is in your future,whether you go with Race Tech,just do it yourself,or have a shop do it.You probably won't be happy with the stock forks.
*Oh yeah,if you grab the rear fender to turn the bike around,you'll probably end up with a handfull of rear fender(been there,done that)

BTW,I'm in the western part of the state and been on CR500's since 1990,if you need anything else,hare scrambles schedules,bike questions, whatever, just ask.

sounds like you and youre bike got into a fight with a stream crossing or deciving puddle...

14/51 is good gearing or 13/49 if you want lower or 13/51 if you are going to spend a lot of time in 1st gear.

MSR Raptor clutch lever and perch.

Stealhy flywheel, skid plate, pipe guard. If you are riding in a lot of water Honda has a airbox lid which works well - should have come with the bike.

Have fun.

In going to the 13 tooth sprocket did you guys have any problems with the chain rubbing on the case?

There is nothing like a CR-500 in sand whoops. I didn't experiment much with gearing but the fly wheel weight is worth the $. I ran a 15oz and it helped with hook up and less stalling(who wants to kick that thing more than they have to). If you get a sthealy be sure and locktite the set screws and check them regularly. I had one that was freshly snugged down (no locktite) back out on a ride and it tore up the cover and got into the clutch actuator. A little creative trail repair got me back to the truck with a working clutch. The CR-500 is a great woods/harescrable bike once you learn how to make the power your friend.

I am starting to sound like a broken record, but.... pay very close attention to the pilot and air screw settings. Low end jetting makes a big difference in the woods. Also, buy some life insurance and a parachute. Based on my 1 and only experience with a 500cc - well.... let's just say you have some mighty big balls ;-)

I geared my 500 up to smooth the hit. With the higher gearing IMO you dont need a flywheel weight. I also run a bpr6es plug per Eric Gorr's reccomendation with stock jetting and it runs really great. No spooge and good throttle response while running on BP premium and Mobil MX2T mixed at 40:1. Mine does have a different carb as it is a AF.

You will need threadlock for many of the bolts/screws, and I highly reccomend using anti-seize paste on your caliper pins, I just had to drill and remove one cause someone before me did not apply anti-seize.

Also dont pass up good deals on sprockets, chains and tires, they seem to go quickly :eek: