GOVERNOR question plz help

[1994WR250Chad]

GOVERNOR Problem

1994 Yamaha wr 250 (2stroke)

I just replaced the Piston, cylinder and the Cylinder head. everything came apart and went back together as planned and by the book.

In the process of putting the head together, I learned that the "lever" that adjust the valve for the exhaust is called the "governor". :whoa: This Lever, is routed down into the crankcase".

When checking all to make sure things worked, the Governor puzzled me... :coocoo: . because I could move it fine with little pressure from my finger, but when I use the kick starter to move the piston and to verify the parts are not binding, I notice he "Lever"/Governor did not move with the movement of the piston? Unfortunately, I did not think to check how the "governor" was actuated before I took every thing apart. because all I had to do is remove :think: two bolts in the governor to complete the job.

my question is, does the Lever called the Governor move:
A) at speed
B) by combustion pressure
C) when in gear
D) with piston movement
E) :worship: Grace of God
F) :| Pure Freakin Magic
G) Other. (please Explain)

When I use the kick Starter, it does not trigger. If it is screwed up i will be faced with removing the crank case to find/repair the problem.

Please help If you have an idea what i am asking.

Thanks!!
Chad

 

[Agitator]

I've never heard of a governor on a bike before, but I"ve worked on small engines that have 'em.

If it's a true "governor," (the kind I know) It'll only be actuated by the throttle, so it isn't supposed to move when the piston goes up and down, but when you apply throttle. Note; this is only true if it's the type I think it is.

A governor simply keeps the engine at a steady rpm. Let's say you're cruisin' at thirty mph... you get to a hill... the bike wants to slow down. Instead of givin' the bike more gas to keep the same forward speed, the governor gives the bike extra gas (or exhaust flow perhaps) which keeps the engine at the same speed. It's like an automatic throttle. To some degree, at least.

The linkage you're seeing entering the crankcase is the activation lever. Somehow, when the crank goes slower, a centrifugal mechanism moves that lever... the designs vary.

It should me okay if you didn't fool with the part inside the crankcase. Lubricating the linkage pivots you see could never hurt though.

Good luck!

Agitator

 

[SpeedyManiac]

Are you talking about the powervalve? If so, it opens at a certain RPM.

 

[Rcannon]

The correct answer is A, F and G. http://www.highlandsyamaha.com/pages/parts/default.aspx

Go to the parts diagram for your bike here and look at the governor assembly.

If you dig deeper into the mechanism there are 5 balls (similar to ball bearings) inside the lower case. Once the motor reaches a certain rpm level, these balls move outward, opening the powervalve or governor. once the rpm's drop enough, the governor closes.

While yoru kick starting the bike or it is idleing on the stand, the powervalve is going to be in the closed position. If you left the cover off and reved the bike, you would see it open at somewhere around 5-6000 rpm's.

 

[jmics]

lol a,f,&g one thing I would look at if you took all of your old powervalve prts off the old cylinder and put it on the new one make sure the stop tangs on the left side(as your sitting on the bike) are not worn. if they are worn too far the powervalve will hit the piston and could cause damage to all of those new parts you put in.

what extent was the damage originally that made you replace these parts and why did that damage happen? is a very good good question to answer

 

[1994WR250Chad]

Was going through spark plugs like crazy... after reading the repair book, I did the steps just up to messing with the jetting. Basically the previous owner road it until it ran like crap, then bought a tons of parts but never took the time to fix it.
When I took the top end apart, I noticed lots of Carbon build up and decided since I had a completely new top end and cylner sitting on my shelf, I though it would be quicker to just install it instead of trying to clean up an repair the older top end.

I then took the Carb apart and found that the Choke was stuck in the full open position. I fixed it and cleaned it all up, put a new air filter on the the bike; Changed the rear brakes and Bam... put humpdey dumpdey back together. Checked all the torqs, fluids, and kicked her over on the first try!.... Boy she purrs nicely. :ride:

After completing the first half of the brake in, Plugs look great, and she has plent of power. All this and muck more for jus under 800$. Only thing left is replacing the seals in the forks and she will be like new again :nod: