grinding aluminum..hello metalworking people

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SVTMc-G

Member

Apr 1, 2006

368

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• Sep 12, 2009

• #1

Hey gents. I bought a new case saver for my bike, BUT I went to a 14T sprocket and I need to grind 1/16" from the case saver. What should I use? I have a dremel. I just am not sure what to use to grind the metal down. I know the grinding stone won't work, tried that!hahaha The aluminum just melts into the crvices of the stone. Tungsten? Help! :bang:
Mc-G

 

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danjerman

Member

Aug 15, 2000

122

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• Sep 12, 2009

• #2

Dremel is probably the easiest option. It wont look too pretty but if you get one of those abrasive wheels, you could make some passes along the case saver until you gain he desired clearance.

 

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SVTMc-G

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Apr 1, 2006

368

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• Sep 12, 2009

• Thread starter
• #3

I did. the stone only worked for a few minutes then the aluminum melted into the wheel making it smooth.hahaha

 

Rich Rohrich

Moderator / BioHazard

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Jul 27, 1999

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• Sep 12, 2009

• #4

Grab a half-round file with a radius as close to the case-saver radius as possible. Pull the file from top to bottom using the same path as the sprocket would take.

 

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jsantapau

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Nov 10, 2008

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• Sep 12, 2009

• #5

Rich Rohrich said:

Grab a half-round file with a radius as close to the case-saver radius as possible. Pull the file from top to bottom using the same path as the sprocket would take.

Click to expand...

yes! and a brass or nylon toothbrush between each drawing of the file to clean it

 

whenfoxforks-ruled

Old MX Racer

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Oct 19, 2006

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Merrillville,Indiana

• Sep 12, 2009

• #6

It would take a very skilled hand with a dremel to relieve that much area and look good, a file will work much better. Start with a rasp or ******* cut file and go finer when you get close to what you need. Or a grinding wheel roughly the same radius as the case saver. They will all clog with aluminum if you are not careful, the old wire brush.

 

Backslayer

Go Big or Go Home

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May 27, 2007

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• Sep 13, 2009

• #7

They do make aluminum grinding wheels for a grinder. Never use a standard grinding wheel to grind aluminum as they will clog up and explode.

 

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mideastrider

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Jul 8, 2006

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• Sep 13, 2009

• #8

These burrs will shovel some aluminum pretty well. I don't know if it will work for you or not, takes a steady hand.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#carbide-burs/=3m3r0m

 

Ol'89r

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Jan 27, 2000

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• Sep 13, 2009

• #9

The rotary burrs that mideastrider suggested will remove aluminum very fast. If you coat them with wax they will not load up with aluminum. Sanding discs also remove aluminum pretty fast and they won't explode like a grinding wheel will. A belt sander will also work.

If you only have a 1/16" to remove, Rich's suggestion of using a file my be the way to go.

 

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SVTMc-G

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Apr 1, 2006

368

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• Sep 13, 2009

• Thread starter
• #10

Thanks for everyone's help. I found a tungsten carbide burr that worked quite well. I have a pretty steady hand for a darn drummer, it got away from me a few times but worked well and the case saver is now on the bike. It doesn't look perfect and I made some etches in the black anodizing(sp?), but I'm for function before looks.

Thanks again fella's. you always rock!!
Mc-G

 

Patman

Pantless Wonder

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Dec 26, 1999

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• Sep 13, 2009

• #11

Get a black Sharpie marker to fix the scratches.

I'm with Rich, a few strokes with a good file and maybe a little abrasive cloth/paper to pretty it up is my usual choice ESPECIALLY for aluminum.

 

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SVTMc-G

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Apr 1, 2006

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• Sep 14, 2009

• Thread starter
• #12

Advice will be put to use! I'm gonna do that this weekend. Like I need one, but a good way to pass some time and some beer too!hahaha
thanks again bro!
Mc-G

 

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Porkchop

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Apr 27, 2001

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• Nov 1, 2009

• #13

Abrasives& Aluminum...101

All abrasives when grinding non-ferrous materials, require a coolant or lubricant. Apply a little paraffin wax to your grinding wheel or stone prior to removing material. Cheap candle wax will work, so will WD-40, kerosine,
diesel fuel,or any light oil. Put it on the work piece too. Be carefull when you turn on your grinder, some of anything you put on the tool is going air-born as soon as you hit the switch. all of the above will prevent the grinding wheel from "loading up". Abrasives, like all cutting tools get dull and can be dressed down with a piece of solid carbide, a dressing stick, or an industrial diamond to expose new sharp grinding material. All of the above is messy, so take precautions, cover parts that you wish to keep clean& use eye protection.Tiddy things up when your done& you're good to go. Best regards from an old gear grinder, Porkchop..... :yikes: