I just got a 2001 rm 250. Replaced top end, cleaned carb, replaced air filter all the basic stuff. My problem is it feels like the powerband never kicks in, it does not bog, goes through the gears fine. Picks up speed. It just never has that 2 stroke hit. I cleaned and checked the power valves they are working correctly. The plug looks good not fouled. Bike has stock jetting. This bike has a power jet solenoid. I checked it off the bike and it works. I'm not sure if the power jet rectifier is working. I unplugged it and it didn't make any difference in the way it ran. I'm not sure how exactly this works or how to test it, the manual is not very clear to me. If anyone has any opionious please let me know. Thanks
Help with RM 250 PLEASE
- Thread starter bdtcr125
- Start date
- Jul 16, 2004
- 1,207
- 0
is everything torqued down correctly after the install? When you say it just doesnt kick in, does it rev out but does nothing? Are you positive you adjusted the powervalve correctly after install? Try turning it clockwise a little and see if it gets better as well just in case
- Thread starter
- #5
Double checked all torques everything is good. Yes it just revs out no hit at all.It doesn't bog or anything just picks speed. The only place I could see to adjust the power valve was the cap with the spring behind it on the left side. I tried the spring loose and I also tried it tight not really much difference.
- Jul 16, 2004
- 1,207
- 0
it really sounds like your exhaust valve is doing something it shouldnt, when mine wasnt hooked up correctly it was doing the same thing. Do you have a manual? if not i would get one so you can see the exact specs of how the exhaust valve should be plus anything else.
The spring on the valve should be turned 1/4 of a turn for the stock tension. I agree with Sick, the valve is probably not opening. Remove the left side PV access plate and start the motor (make sure you put the pipe back on). When you rev it up the actuator arm should move. If not then either the clip inside the case is broken or the govener is not working. You'll need to remove the clutch cover to fix it. It's not hard.
Good luck.
Good luck.
crack rock
Member
- Feb 28, 2006
- 51
- 0
i agree that it sounds like an exhaust valve issue but just for the hell of it what main jet are you running? i noticed you said it has the stock jetting which should be a #162 main if its leaner it could make the bike hesitate and not have power up top
Yah it sure sounds like a exhaust valve not opening. My buddies rm125 had the same problem, the power valve was really hard to open and close and he hooked up the linkage wrong so it wouldnt hit band. I cleaned the oil build up and **** out for him in a varsal tank then used some good lubricant to make the linkage open and close smoothly. It hits band just fine now.
nmcam12345
Member
- Jan 29, 2005
- 33
- 0
hello to all
i have the same problem too .... all it will doo is just revs out!!. AND DOSNT LIKE TO HIT THE POWERBAND .it just revs and sounds like boooorr????? and pick speed up same as the other guy above ? i looked at my spring on the left side 1/4 turn
but what i have been doing is playn with my carb tryn to fix it ..... no luck though :ride: :bang:
i have the same problem too .... all it will doo is just revs out!!. AND DOSNT LIKE TO HIT THE POWERBAND .it just revs and sounds like boooorr????? and pick speed up same as the other guy above ? i looked at my spring on the left side 1/4 turn
but what i have been doing is playn with my carb tryn to fix it ..... no luck though :ride: :bang:
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it might not have enough spring tension!! -so it is opening up right off the start,and not holding the back pressure in long enough/ therefore you wouldnt feel it open -(or hit) like it is suppose to
i went through this with my 92
try to start it and see if it is opening too soon while it is idleing
if so adjust it /or if it is stuck you will see as well
thats why your not getting the --( brrrraaaaapppp )
i went through this with my 92
try to start it and see if it is opening too soon while it is idleing
if so adjust it /or if it is stuck you will see as well
thats why your not getting the --( brrrraaaaapppp )
nmcam12345
Member
- Jan 29, 2005
- 33
- 0
sorry its a bit complexs but when u say idle that s like kick bike over then leave throtle and see if the arm that coneted to the white clip is moveing ??? up or down ? plus i tryd bike this morning i turnd the tensoin on the spring but i still get blurrr blurr when i rev hopefully im doing the right things to solve my blurr blurr problems ???j32 said:
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quintwatson
Member
- Jan 22, 2006
- 30
- 0
Did you get this resolved? My 01 RM250 ran like crap on stock jetting. I had to go several sizes smaller on the pilot and main and one step larger (leaner) on the needle.
Did anyone figure this problem out?
I have been trying to overcome the same problem for waaaaay too long! The top end is fresh, the power valve has been thoroughly cleaned. I have wasted a ridiculous amount of time jetting... I have tried leaning it out, richening up and every combination in between with no success! :bang: If someone has overcome this issue PLEASE respond with the remedy!
I have been trying to overcome the same problem for waaaaay too long! The top end is fresh, the power valve has been thoroughly cleaned. I have wasted a ridiculous amount of time jetting... I have tried leaning it out, richening up and every combination in between with no success! :bang: If someone has overcome this issue PLEASE respond with the remedy!
one thing at the time
When you go through the carb there are several important steps to follow. First rule, get the bike mechanical sound. Crankseals have a big impact on rich or lean conditions. Second do not change more than one thing at the time.
After that the float level, that is the biggest influencial thing your carb has. If the float level is not correct your jetting will be off.
Next is the pilot circle. Running crisp 'till about a third from there the needle and last the main. There are several diagram floating around on the net how the influence of each circuit works. Don't forget they are all connected.
If you have big trouble in jetting give your throttle a degree scheme, meaning separate the complete throttle movement in 4 parts on your throttle tube. So you know where the hesitation or bogg occurrs.
I played around with different needles and found on one bike the OEM needle works good and on the other a red JD needle ended a long struggle.
When you go through the carb there are several important steps to follow. First rule, get the bike mechanical sound. Crankseals have a big impact on rich or lean conditions. Second do not change more than one thing at the time.
After that the float level, that is the biggest influencial thing your carb has. If the float level is not correct your jetting will be off.
Next is the pilot circle. Running crisp 'till about a third from there the needle and last the main. There are several diagram floating around on the net how the influence of each circuit works. Don't forget they are all connected.
If you have big trouble in jetting give your throttle a degree scheme, meaning separate the complete throttle movement in 4 parts on your throttle tube. So you know where the hesitation or bogg occurrs.
I played around with different needles and found on one bike the OEM needle works good and on the other a red JD needle ended a long struggle.
Just because the power valve is clean doesn't mean it's working. You need to remove the access cover and run it to be sure it's opening and closing properly. I also made a big ol' boo boo once and installed a piston backwards. The bike ran but wouldn't rev out. I felt like an arse but I'll never do that again, lol....
