Help with silencer

[firecracker22]

I tried to repack my silencer, but I couldn't get the endcap out. No amount of hammering (carefully of course) or prying would get it out. Any ideas? It's a FMF Turbine Core, so it has a spark arrester I have to be careful of not damaging. Oil is oozing out of the rivets because there is some packing around the endcap too that we need to get out.

 

[Peer Lovell]

First make sure that the rivets are totally removed so that there is nothing hanging up the cap. Heat the end of the silencer with a propane torch; that usually works. If all this fails, you might have to wiggle a very thin piece of steel, like a hacksaw blade or putty knife in between the silencer core and the cap to break them lose.
Seal with some hi temp silicone when you put it back to gether.

 

[jmics19067]

Originally posted by Peer Lovell
If all this fails, you might have to wiggle a very thin piece of steel, like a hacksaw blade or putty knife in between the silencer core and the cap to break them loose

most of the time I had a stuck end cap there was a burr between the silencer body and the cap where the screws go thru. I have a set of old useless feeler gauges that I slide in between the body and cap. 3 of them where the screw holes are to kinda make a ramp for the uneven metal to slide over. Then I use a piece of broomstick handle into the exhaust hole for a bit of added leverage and wiggle it out. If screw hole distortion<doesn't have to be much> is holding you up this works out rather nice.

 

[jmics19067]

just noticed you said a spark arrestor sorry I never messed with the back half of one, I undid it from the front side of the body and then prayed<then cursed> to get the perforated core lined up .

 

[firecracker22]

Half the problem is that I've never done one before, and my friends who were helping me don't run spark arresters so they weren't sure if there was something specific we had to do or not. That thing is in there tight too--we hammered on it pretty good and it didn't even budge. I will forward all of your ideas though, thank you!

 

[A-RustyDemon]

Well the first problem is... is that you are going at it from the wrong end of the silencer. To re-pack you remove the barrel and end cap as a unit. Look at the other end... see those screws. That's where you start... Remove them and the barrel should slide off. Then you remove the old fiber packing... wrap with new and slide back inside of barrel... I hope you didn't rip the screening for the spark arresto. And don't over wrap the baffle. ;)Good Luck.

Oh and remember to replace the rivet that you drilled out.

 

[biglou]

See if this helps any. It's a Power Core, not a Turbin Core, but the prcedure is roughly the same. Click.

 

[firecracker22]

Thanks Lou, that's a great tutorial, but the only problem we ran into was in the one step you glossed over:

Step one: Disassemble.

That endcap was lodged in there firmly. The spark arrester types must be set up a little differently. We will give it another try later next week, before we leave for Reno.

And we do need to get the endcap off of the barrel instead of taking it all off in one piece, since there is a little bit more packing in there that is separate from the packing that wraps around the core. It must be because it is a spark arrester. Otherwise, we got the rest of it just fine.

 

[biglou]

Just bring it to Reno, Edwardo is a master Turbine Core disassembler. I've got pics to prove it! Seriously, if you don't get to it, bring the packing and we can get it taken care of in short order.

 

[A-RustyDemon]

No you don't need to remove the end cap. Here is a copy of the maintenance instructions.


S I L E N C E R I N S T R U C T I O N S
Thank you for purchasing the FMF Turbinecore 2 silencer for your motorcycle.

Your FMF Turbinecore 2 silencer has been developed using the latest design, testing and
manufacturing technologies. Your silencer is manufactured from an extruded aluminum canister, with a
stainless steel stinger, performance flow endcap and uses space age sound-absorbing packing material.
The FMF Powercore 2 is designed to give you a balanced power enhancement in a lightweight, fully
rebuildable, factory sounding silencer.

To repack the silencer remove the 3 screws from the front of the silencer using a 4mm allen wrench. Do not remove the
rear endcap. Hold the stinger in one hand with it pointing down, and gently tap the aluminum bracket on a wood block in
a downward motion to slip out the inner core assembly from the canister. Be careful not to damage the silencer. Unwrap
the packing from the core and discard. Using a wire brush, clean the perforated core and do a final wipe down with
contact cleaner. Wrap the core with new FMF 2-stroke packing and secure with a strip of masking tape. Do not pack too
tightly, as this will hamper performance. Before re-installing inner core assembly, apply a thin layer of hi-temp silicon on
the front end cap, where the aluminum canister slips over. Slip inner core assembly into canister making sure that it fully
seats in the rear endcap. Re-install the allen screws until snug or tighten 1/4 turn after the screw makes contact with the
canister.

 

[firecracker22]

Originally posted by BigLou
Just bring it to Reno, Edwardo is a master Turbine Core disassembler. I've got pics to prove it! Seriously, if you don't get to it, bring the packing and we can get it taken care of in short order.

Edwardo?

 

[380EXCman]

The Turbine Core II is a little difficult to repack. Especially if you want to do around the spark arrestor. The end cap will come out but you have to tap it out from the inside/out. Pro Circut does not insulate around their spark arrestors. I would just replace the packing around the core and call it good....... See my signature for further instructions. There is a How-To section....... See ya in a week!

 

[firecracker22]

Cool, thanks 380! So I should just not worry about the packing around the s/a? Because it is black and oily and drooling right there, it's oozing out around the rivets. We already did the rest.