hey canyncarvr please help me!!!!!!!

[kdxmann]

hi remember me well i got my 01 kawasaki kdx200 2 weeks ago and i already had .42frp fork springs and want to put them in well i bought a manual and am wondering is there eally much need to take the forks off the bike?what tool would i use to get the fork cap off?is there really any need to redo the preload sice the new springs are 470mm and the stockers are 467.5?one more thing on the rear suspension i have the compression clicker all the way to the hardest setting do u think thebike will bottom out when i hit jumps i weigh 190lb? thanx alot i promise these are my last questions haha :)

 

[kdxmann]

o also what about the compression clickers on the fork how do i get the rubber thingy out of the bottom thanx again

 

[canyncarvr]

You don't HAVE to take the forks out of the bike. It's much easier to do it that way, though. It's a bit of a hassle dealing with spring compression to install the spacer, put in oil to the desired level and such with the forks in the bike.

The time you save NOT taking the forks off will probably be more than used messing with the inconvenience with them ON the bike.

re: preload

The oem preload is ridiculous (too much). Using the oem spacers on a longer spring will only make it worse. Your choice..but there isn't a whole lot of point to putting in new springs if you aren't going to do the job right...imo.

re: fork cap off.

A correctly sized socket would be nice. No, I don't have one, either. I use (sorry) an adjustable wrench. Remember to loosen the cap before you loosen the bottom clamp (if you're taking the forks out. This has been covered before).

re: clicker all the way in

That's unlikely a good thing. It won't be balanced with the rebound, most likely. With a too-hard compression setting, the bike will kick your arse (instead of compressing) on sharp edged stuff. That will lead to a control (failure to keep it) issue. There are a number of other problems with it set that way, too.

Basically, compression needs to be SOFT enough (clicks out) to absorb impacts without jacking your arse, HARD enough (clicks in) to take as large an impact as you're going to give it. Rebound needs to be FAST enough (clicks out) to be ready for the next impact (not 'pack'), SLOW enough (clicks in) to keep the wheel on the ground during the rebound process.

I think you've read that before, too.

re: rubber thingys

A mechanics scribe works well. So will a small screwdriver.