How do I set up a softer suspension...

[Pathfinder4]

Have been woods riding the YZ250F since they came out. Ive had two 01, and 02 and now an 03. The 03 is to stiff for me even at all the low settings. I assume the next step would be lighter weight oil and lower level. Has any body done this and can help me with particulars before I start to experiment.

I ride B level enduros. I want to hit those 4" roots without such a jar. My 02 is much softer. Maybe its just broken in more.

Thanks for any help

 

[dbrace]

Lighter fork oil wont really give u the best result. You could go for softer springs but that would depend on what u weigh. The fork compression stack is valved a lot stiffer this year .

 

[tmoney]

Anyone know the difference between the 03 and 02 or 01 compression stacks? Or at least what the 03 compr. stack is? I have tried the lower fork level and it helped some but not close to what I expected. I think the best thing to do next is to try messing with the compression valve stack cross over shims and try to get the HSC a bit softer for the hard/fast hits you are talking about. I race HS and have ridden an 01 that has never been touched and it is much softer.

 

[russ17]

The 03 250f stack is alot stiffer in the base this year compared to the previous years. For the type of riding that your specifing I would recommend that you get it revalved for that type of application.

 

[bclapham]

tmoney, are you confident that fork has a 2 stage stack? ive seen two yam forks, they both had a really stiff single stage basevalve stack (combined with a big midvlave lift)

to lighten the fork, it is possible to take some shims of the basevalve stack, the 24.1's might be a good place to start???

 

[dbrace]

The 03 has a few shims doubled up thru the stack, u could try removing one of each of those and see what u think.

 

[tmoney]

Thanks for the info on what to try on the compression stack. Do I have to take the fork completly apart to pull the compression assembly out. I don't want to damage anything. Looks to me like I just need to drain the oil, remove the fork cap bolt, spring, rod, etc and then remove the compression assembly. Wasn't really sure if I needed the dampening rod tool that keeps it from spinning. Any advice out there. I'd really like to understand the easiest way to pull the compression assy out so I can try a few different settings. thanks.

 

[dbrace]

You can pull the forks off the bike and tip them upside down. You need a 14mm allen key socket to remove adjuster. The quickest way is to use an air gun to spin them out. If u do it this way you wont need a cartridge holding tool,but be sure to clean the area well before removing the adjuster. This is not the best way to do it but it is quicker.

 

[tmoney]

dbrace, with the method you mentioned above just 2 questions,
1) does this mean I won't need to mess with removing the fork oil, (ie. just leave the top of the fork assembled)

2) when torquing the compression assy base back in won't the dampening rod assembly spin? I'm assuming I should not use a torgue gun to reinstall the compress base.

Thanks

 

[dbrace]

Correct ,you wont need to remove the fork cap and oil loss thru the base valve will be very minor,if any. After changing the valving you can use the air gun to put it back together again and then use a torque wrench to check tightness. After u find a setting you like i do suggest you pull the forks totally apart to give them a good clean.

 

[tmoney]

dbrace,
I finally go around to messing with my compression valving. I was surprised to find out that the right side fork was missing a 16mmX.15mm shim. The left fork had 3 the right side only 2.

Do you have the stock 03-250f shim stack setup? I did not notice how many shims go between the base thick washer and the very thin 24mm dia shim.

 

[russ17]

Tmoney - you should of only had 2 -.15x.16 on each leg. Sometime the shims will stick together they probably where stuck together when they put the shims on and missed it. you should have

2-.16
2-.18
2-.20
2-.22
these are the shims that are doubled for that year!

Russ

 

[tmoney]

Russ,Thanks for the info. I guess they accidentally installed an extra 16 shim in my stack. Do you happen to know how many shims go on the other side of the thick base shim (washe).,..ie. between it and the really thin 24mm shim. I did not record this and forgot. I rebuilt the valving with the 11mmx.29 on that side of the thick base washer and had the 11mx.25 as the last shim on the HSC stack. Was this right to do? I also removed one of the 22's, one of the 20's, and one of the 24 shims to soften it up a bit...kept everything as a single stage...will this work? Many questions.

 

[russ17]

The .25x.11 is your piviot shim it should be the first shim on against the base plate( that is what they use stock) then work your way up to the .24s.all I can say is don't be afraid to experiment with different set ups. that is how you learn. Man I got my base bolts worn out from being into mine so much.

Russ

 

[tmoney]

Russ, thanks again. That is how I did it, so I'm glad I don't have that to worry about now. I removed the extra 16mm dia shim. I then removed a 20mm 22mm and 24mm shim from the stack, keeping it a single stage. My guess is this will reduce more of the HSC while keeping the front end sitting up in the travel. Anyway that's what I am hoping for. We'll see. If the bike is clean, I don't see why the forks can't be rebuilt while still in the triple clamps.

 

[russ17]

I have heard of guys flipping the bike up side down and taking the base valves out. but I never have done it. but any time keep us posted!
Russ

 

[RVL]

Does anybody know the proper shim stack arrangements for bikes other than the Yamaha 250? I have a 2000 XR650R that is harsh. I know how to take the shock and fork apart, but I would like to know what shim stacks to use.
Thanks,
Robert