i have a 2004 ktm 450 exc and i have 2.5 hours on it now. i need to get the valves adjusted. should i take it to the ktm dealer and pay them 75 dollars, or is it that hard to do yourself? i have had the tank off to put my radiator guards on and the i saw the valve covers they look easy enough. but how do you find top dead center and do i need any special tools or parts? i would like to learn how to do this myself because i plan on keeping this bike for quite awhile.
how to adjust valves?
- Thread starter sloopy
- Start date
CR Swade
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- Jan 18, 2001
- 1,764
- 5
TDC is easy on the KTM. Remove the tank, tie the radiators back w/ a bungee cord, remove the spark plug, remove the valve covers, remove the ignition cover (there will be some oil). Use a 17mm ratchet to turn the crank at the flywheel. Top dead center will be when both intake and exhaust are closed, just prior to exhaust opening. On the clutch side engine case there is a allen head bolt (8mm I believe), on the front of the engine case. When you remove that bolt, take off the washer and re-install, it is a crank lock @ TDC. The bolt will thread all the way in when you have it at TDC (vs the overlap stroke). Take the time at this point ot paint a mark on your flywheel for future reference.
Once @ TDC, use the handy dandy little feeler guage from MSR that has a .005mm tab. The tab should slide between the rocker tappet and the valve top w/ just a slight amount of drag. If it is tight (can't fit the guage in) simply loosen the locknut and turn out the adjustment screw w/ a flat blade screwdriver until it fits, then tighten the locknut down. More than likely the exahust will be fine and the intake will be the ones tightening up. Re-assemble by removing the crank lock bolt first, reinstalling the washer and reinstalling the bolt, install the valve covers, ignition cover, radiators, tank and consider it done.
Once @ TDC, use the handy dandy little feeler guage from MSR that has a .005mm tab. The tab should slide between the rocker tappet and the valve top w/ just a slight amount of drag. If it is tight (can't fit the guage in) simply loosen the locknut and turn out the adjustment screw w/ a flat blade screwdriver until it fits, then tighten the locknut down. More than likely the exahust will be fine and the intake will be the ones tightening up. Re-assemble by removing the crank lock bolt first, reinstalling the washer and reinstalling the bolt, install the valve covers, ignition cover, radiators, tank and consider it done.
- Feb 9, 2000
- 3,715
- 0
Hold the bolt that the lock nuts are threaded onto with a screwdriver, the top of it is slotted. Once you see them it will all make sense.
Here is a LINK with another description of the process and a picture or two.
If you are careful and a bit lucky you won't need a gasket. I drained my radiators the first couple times I did my valves but may try the tie back method next time.
Here is a LINK with another description of the process and a picture or two.
If you are careful and a bit lucky you won't need a gasket. I drained my radiators the first couple times I did my valves but may try the tie back method next time.
- Thread starter
- #11
ok, thanks guys for the info i used a .127 mm feeler gage that i got from napa, and it seemed to work prett well. i got the valves adjusted my bike starts great, but if i rev my bike real fast it stalls out. if i rev normally it revs up without stalling. do you think maybe my carb is out of adjustment? my bike does sound a little ticky since i adjusted the valves.?
