How to maximize my 97 RM250??

[rodH]

OK, I have been riding a lot lately, also have riden some other bikes (freinds) and have noticed that my bike does great, but still isn't as good in every way as some of the new bikes I have riden. The most impressive being the 2005 YZ250 with FMF header and silencer pipe. The other 2 bikes I rode (but am not sold on 4's) are the brand new KTM 250 sxF, and Honda CRF250.

The YZ compared to my bike felt quicker, more low end torque, easier to throw around (lower center of gravity based on an aluminum frame?) and felt lower to the ground.

I know my 97 wont ever be as good as that bike, but how do I make it the most it can be? (within reason).

Here are some differences:
TIRES: I am running brand new Maxxis IT tires (YZ running the Bridgstones) is that a big difference in performance on the track?

SUSPENSION: I have traditional forks on my bike, some say that when dialed these can be very good forks, how do I find more info on this? (YZ obviously is inversion forks). It seems like my suspension feels push enough when pushing up and down on bike, and for my wt, but for some reason sometimes I feel like I am a lot higher up and it isn't as plush when landing off of jumps.

FRAME: Aluminum vs Steel (obviously I can't change this, but many bike still use Steel and Ricky even wins in SX on won, is this hype or a huge difference?

MOTOR: recently had top end done. Bike sounds very very throuty now. The powerband seems more peaky but not as smooth as the YZ (less lower end torque). Do I think about getting a new reed cage/valve? what about flywheel wts?

BRAKES: my brakes are fine, the YZ brakes are waaaaaaay too sensitive. I like how mine don't lock up so easy, lets keep this the same.

ANY tips??

btw, I have Eric's book, not a lot of info there regarding this bike.

 

[rodH]

btw, many might just say "just buy a new bike". At this point, that really isn't an option.

Thanks

 

[jackdrinker]

traditional forks?... like non-inverted?
if so, are you sure it's a 97? my 93' rm125 has inverted forks and a full mcr suspension build and re-spring..
I honestly love my 93 and could never part... remember you'll need to look at things like bearing wear in the neck and wheels, suspension and linkage...

 

[rodH]

traditional forks?... like non-inverted?
if so, are you sure it's a 97? my 93' rm125 has inverted forks and a full mcr suspension build and re-spring..
I honestly love my 93 and could never part... remember you'll need to look at things like bearing wear in the neck and wheels, suspension and linkage...

Ya, they went to traditional forks for a few years in the late 90s. Actually, after doing some research, the design is not a bad one, just went out of favor based on the trends of the inverts. I had my bearings and seals checked and re-lubed, so that isn't really the issue. Perhaps getting custom springs would help, but not sure that would make a huge difference as I am pretty average wt.

 

[adam728]

Get your suspension sprung and valved for your weight and riding style, it's about the best mod you can do on any bike.

 

[Rcannon]

Your forks are still as good as anything made. I would spend some money on the engine. A fresh piston and maybe even some porting.

I disliked the rear shock on these bikes. I would work on that asap.

 

[DWreck]

I knew several people around here who had 97 RM250 and they all agreed that the single most important thing you could do to that bike was get the shock revalved.

Looks like Rcannon feels the same way.

 

[rodH]

Your forks are still as good as anything made. I would spend some money on the engine. A fresh piston and maybe even some porting.

I disliked the rear shock on these bikes. I would work on that asap.

1. Top end is new, runs very well now
2. Should I mess with the forks or leave them alone?
3. Is the rear shock something I should screw with, or someone else (I am very very experienced with Mountain Bike suspension tuning, but all the gas charged Fox, Ohleens (Noleen), Rock Shox and Manitou (Answer) shocks had to be sent out because we didn't have the equit to work on them. Is this the same with a Moto Shock??
4. I might get some porting done when I get this thing dialed in and feel like I need more Low End torque.

THANX FOR YOUR HELP!!!!!

 

[Rcannon]

I would leave the forks alone. Seriously. My friend rides a 98. The forks feel great for my weight (200) and his..... well over 250. I really like them. When I had mine revalved I used the rm as an example of what I was hoping to achieve. After 300 bucks, I am darn near there.

The 96, 97 or 98 RM's are great bikes. The cost is also quite low compared to some others. The clutch on my friends 98 is quite weak. Do you have new plates and springs inside???

I have had shocks apart for oil changes. They are not too bad to work on. The problem is getting the correct valving info. I believe I would send it out.

 

[muddy226]

I had a '96 RM and had the suspension done by pro-action, after which it was superb. I thought that those forks in particular were as good as anything else I have ridden. I can remember always having a problem with getting the jetting right, usually it was too rich near the bottom end. I had good results from the use of a Boyesen Rad Valve, but the bike never really did have the bottom end that I wanted. Probably the only way to really make improvements in the engine is to have it done by someone like Eric Gorr, but all of this adds up to a lot of money, so I would probably start with shock being done and a rad valve, which you might be able to find on the auction site.