Good question. I have noticed that there are two marks for alligning the stator when installing it, and the manual says something about using the mark that provides the best power for the riding conditions, but that doesn't help much. I would like to know what effect you get by changing this.
I adjust mine on a regular basis depedent upon how I'm going to set up the rest of the bike (which pipe, what jetting), and where I'm going to ride (sand, single track).
But then, I also change my gearing, reed tension and suspension settings.
Doesn't everyone? ;)
Rule #1. Don't advance the timing unless you know for a fact what you are doing, how to check the result.
Otherwise, retarding the timing (rotate stator CCW) will increase the pipe 'hit', enhance the upper rpm range ('overrev' if you will) and decrease your bottom end response.
Don't change by the full mark. Check EG's website (you can get there by clicking on the ad to the left) for a wealth of information regarding timing. You'll want to keep the retard change to around .030".
Take care on flywheel install. CHECK to ensure the key does not BACK OUT when you put the FW back on. Tighten to spec!!
Few bikes will respond favorably to advance º, many will benefit from retard (given the effect is what you're after). That's from the site referred to above.
Canyon, where should the stotor mark be moved to between the two marks on the cases in order to retard it the most beneficial amount?
Also, I have a '89 KDX which has a standard advance of 21 degrees instead of 19 which later models have. So to where would you recommend I move mine to get the top end boost?
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