I purchased a set of Iron man sprockets NOV 5 2003 and a DID 520 ERT(2003 KX 250). I had to replace the chain in 6 mths,but the counter and rear was still holding.Counter was hooking at 8 mths,I sent it in no questions asked and had a new one in 2 weeks.The rear is still holding I have about 3 weeks left to wear it down for a replacement. It doesn't look like I will be sending it in,these sprockets are absolutely going on any bike I have.I do service my chain and sprockets after every ride even if the bike isn't washed,but I have never seen sprockets wear like the Iron mans. I ride a couple of sand tracks along with some hard pack atleast 2 times per week. I also like how the counter sprocket sits on the splines of the shaft nice snug fit. Dirt tricks is the company that puts them out and I have to say this is one hell of a after market product!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Iron man sprockets
- Thread starter bigred455
- Start date
Sounds like exactly what I was looking for I was stuck in between the Sidewinder sprockets and the Ironman. Looks like Ironman will be what I try.
Any comparison on wieght compared to steel sprockets I heard they are 4 oz heavier than aluminum I was curious if they were lighter than the stock steel sprockets.
Any comparison on wieght compared to steel sprockets I heard they are 4 oz heavier than aluminum I was curious if they were lighter than the stock steel sprockets.
They are definately lighter than a stock steel, due to the fact that there isn't much meat left on them.
A hard sprocket like that helps to eat up chains. Something was out of whack to begin with if your countershaft sprocket was worn out.
$90 for a steel rear sprocket? Not for me thanks.
A hard sprocket like that helps to eat up chains. Something was out of whack to begin with if your countershaft sprocket was worn out.
$90 for a steel rear sprocket? Not for me thanks.
- Thread starter
- #6
..Jaybird said:
Getting 8 months out of a counter sprocket riding ATLEAST 2 times per week is pretty impressive. The counter is working harder than the rear the counter will wear out first. I will tell you what was out of whack,that I got 8 months out of a counter and received a new one! There is no doubt in my years of riding that these are the best wearing sprockets I have ever put on,PERIOD!
I never considered the increased wear on the chain from extra tough sprockets... I guess everything is a trade off.
I was planning on running the lightwieght RK MXZ3 chain it apparently has a really high tensile strength but I am guessing it will stretch easier because of that light wieght.
Now I am thinking with the lighter chain I may be better off to run aluminum Renthal sprockets instead. I am thinking as they are both lightwieght there may be reduced wear over a normal setup.
I was also looking at the Sunstar Z sprockets.
I have heard from everyone who owns a YZ to get rid of the stock chain and sprocket setup ASAP because the YZ chain and sprockets are junk. I believe I have also heard this mentioned in a magazine at one time or another.
I was planning on running the lightwieght RK MXZ3 chain it apparently has a really high tensile strength but I am guessing it will stretch easier because of that light wieght.
Now I am thinking with the lighter chain I may be better off to run aluminum Renthal sprockets instead. I am thinking as they are both lightwieght there may be reduced wear over a normal setup.
I was also looking at the Sunstar Z sprockets.
I have heard from everyone who owns a YZ to get rid of the stock chain and sprocket setup ASAP because the YZ chain and sprockets are junk. I believe I have also heard this mentioned in a magazine at one time or another.
When you charge 4-5 times what a sprocket is worth, it is easy to provide a few folks with a free replacement.
Getting 8 months on a CS sprocket, even after the torture of 2 rides a week, is NOT very impressive.
It IS idicative of maintenance that needs to improve.
I love ruffling feathers, and I know it does ruffle feathers...but I'M RIGHT! Challange me.... :)
Oh..and BTW....Red, I got from your post that you may be hoping for the thing to wear out before your warranty is up so you can get a new rear.
Well, have you actually read Ironman's return policy closely?
I suggest you do. Also, if your sprocket does wear and you try to get a new one...they may send you one but I bet money they will be making acception to their return policy if they do. But like I said before...4-5 times the money they could replace every buyers sprocket one time and still be way ahead.
Getting 8 months on a CS sprocket, even after the torture of 2 rides a week, is NOT very impressive.
It IS idicative of maintenance that needs to improve.
I love ruffling feathers, and I know it does ruffle feathers...but I'M RIGHT! Challange me.... :)
Oh..and BTW....Red, I got from your post that you may be hoping for the thing to wear out before your warranty is up so you can get a new rear.
Well, have you actually read Ironman's return policy closely?
I suggest you do. Also, if your sprocket does wear and you try to get a new one...they may send you one but I bet money they will be making acception to their return policy if they do. But like I said before...4-5 times the money they could replace every buyers sprocket one time and still be way ahead.
- Aug 2, 2000
- 13,510
- 19
since we're busting the balls of the sprocket peeps, what's the opinions on stainless rear sprockets?
(Titax, Moose, Sidewinder, etc.)
(Titax, Moose, Sidewinder, etc.)
LOL The stock chain (DID) made it 1 year on my YZ250. The stock sprockets made it through 2 years and 3 chains without losing any teeth, I replaced them because they were starting to look worn. I usually ride sand dunes and track so it's not easy riding on the chain and sprockets.
The secret is to clean them good after every ride and lube them every time you take a break. I know people gripe about lubing their chains, but honestly how long does it take? 30 seconds?
Also, if you replace your chain before it wears out, your sprockets will hardly wear.
$80 for a sprocket? Dang...I just payed $30 for a self cleaning titax aluminum rear, which looks to be a very high quality product IMO. I bought a front sprocket for $6. I payed $22 for my current chain (DID Regular), which will last me for a long while. My whole setup is less than that one sprocket.
The secret is to clean them good after every ride and lube them every time you take a break. I know people gripe about lubing their chains, but honestly how long does it take? 30 seconds?
Also, if you replace your chain before it wears out, your sprockets will hardly wear.
$80 for a sprocket? Dang...I just payed $30 for a self cleaning titax aluminum rear, which looks to be a very high quality product IMO. I bought a front sprocket for $6. I payed $22 for my current chain (DID Regular), which will last me for a long while. My whole setup is less than that one sprocket.
Bob,
I realize that folks have the thought that chain maintenance is a big chore and to do it requires one to be "anal" about drive maint. But....drive train maintenance is very simple and takes very little time to accomplish.
If you wash your bike, hose off the chain. If you hose off your chain, put on some lube. Easy.
If you mount up a spocket, align it properly. If you mount up a chain, tension it properly. Easy.
Folks go way over the top doing things like truing wheels...truing wheels? Who needs a whell trued up properly? Heck just ride it.
Adding or reducing deck height....deck height? What the heck for? Heck, just take what the motor gives you and be happy.
Jetting up the carb properly. What, jet the carb? Now THAT is way over the top...one has to be way anal to try top jet up a carb properly...hell just ride it with the jets that the factory sent.
Grease up linkage? What in the world for? A man should really stop worrying about linkage. It takes next to nothing to beat and hammer and torch and sweat and cuss...once the linkage or wheel bearings get worn. Heck, ride em till they sieze.
You see what I'm getting at? Taking care of a drive set-up is easy and takes very little time at all. Far less than many other maintenance issues that folks wouldn't think about not doing.
And I guarantee you that the guys like Ironman Sprockets KNOW that folks neglect chain/sprocket maintenance, and they take full advantage of the fact that folks get very excited when they think that they have found a product that eliminates maintenance.
Yes I do think that if you take care of things properly that the cheaper stuff will last a person quite well. It happens all the time. Many folks will tell you how long they are getting out of cheap stuff, yet other folks will buy the highest dollar stuff they can find and then cry when it doesn't last. They call it junk, when failure wasn't the fault of the equipment at all.
It still amazes me how folks pay bigtime attention to almost every aspect of their bike, accept for the chain and sprockets.
Viva WD-40, steel sprockets and ring chains! :)
I realize that folks have the thought that chain maintenance is a big chore and to do it requires one to be "anal" about drive maint. But....drive train maintenance is very simple and takes very little time to accomplish.
If you wash your bike, hose off the chain. If you hose off your chain, put on some lube. Easy.
If you mount up a spocket, align it properly. If you mount up a chain, tension it properly. Easy.
Folks go way over the top doing things like truing wheels...truing wheels? Who needs a whell trued up properly? Heck just ride it.
Adding or reducing deck height....deck height? What the heck for? Heck, just take what the motor gives you and be happy.
Jetting up the carb properly. What, jet the carb? Now THAT is way over the top...one has to be way anal to try top jet up a carb properly...hell just ride it with the jets that the factory sent.
Grease up linkage? What in the world for? A man should really stop worrying about linkage. It takes next to nothing to beat and hammer and torch and sweat and cuss...once the linkage or wheel bearings get worn. Heck, ride em till they sieze.
You see what I'm getting at? Taking care of a drive set-up is easy and takes very little time at all. Far less than many other maintenance issues that folks wouldn't think about not doing.
And I guarantee you that the guys like Ironman Sprockets KNOW that folks neglect chain/sprocket maintenance, and they take full advantage of the fact that folks get very excited when they think that they have found a product that eliminates maintenance.
Yes I do think that if you take care of things properly that the cheaper stuff will last a person quite well. It happens all the time. Many folks will tell you how long they are getting out of cheap stuff, yet other folks will buy the highest dollar stuff they can find and then cry when it doesn't last. They call it junk, when failure wasn't the fault of the equipment at all.
It still amazes me how folks pay bigtime attention to almost every aspect of their bike, accept for the chain and sprockets.
Viva WD-40, steel sprockets and ring chains! :)
- Thread starter
- #13
How this for chain maintenance,even when the bike is not washed ,I do the chain and sprockets after every ride and believe me it does not take 30 seconds. Lightly spray the non -oring down with engine degreaser be careful just spray,away from the swing arm down low middle on the chain.Let sit for a few minutes hose off when rotating,take a air compressor blow out all the links, rollers and pins, spray wd 40 and wipe it down put it away.Riding day I wipe the chain again and each tooth on the sprocket down with a rag to get the wd-40 off. I then lube each pin between the links,throw the bike in my van and off to the track. I have to say chain maintenance is neglected buy the average owner,but NOT ME!!!!
Some of you are forgetting one important thing, take the same bike, same power,same chain maintenance, same chain and sprockets,same riding conditions, but different riding abilitys.THINK ABOUT THAT!!!!!! What set of chain and sprockets are getting trashed first.
Like I mentioned,I ride atleast 2 times per week that is the least I ride, I do ride 3 or 4 times during the week occasionally, the point is I ride consistently,but I gave you the minimal!!!!! I have yet to see a set of sprockets wear Like the IRONMAN with good chain maintenance, there is nothing more to consider with me.Jaybird you have bought up good points ,but you are barking up the wrong tree.
Some of you are forgetting one important thing, take the same bike, same power,same chain maintenance, same chain and sprockets,same riding conditions, but different riding abilitys.THINK ABOUT THAT!!!!!! What set of chain and sprockets are getting trashed first.
Like I mentioned,I ride atleast 2 times per week that is the least I ride, I do ride 3 or 4 times during the week occasionally, the point is I ride consistently,but I gave you the minimal!!!!! I have yet to see a set of sprockets wear Like the IRONMAN with good chain maintenance, there is nothing more to consider with me.Jaybird you have bought up good points ,but you are barking up the wrong tree.
Are we saying then that "heavy-duty" parts aren't useful for some? There are afterall, many of us that don't maintain the bike as well as we should for one reason or another... Seems to me that all maint. being the same, the stronger part will still last longer. The price point is the only issue in my mind, ie; will it last 3 times longer if it costs 3 times more.
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Red, using a lube that needs to be cleaned off with a degreaser may be part of why your stuff doesn't last. I've spent a small amount of time in NJ and what I saw was sand, sand and more sand. Riding in sand dictates that you chose the correct lube.
Bob,
I agree 100%. There is nothing wrong with using a product that may well decrease the work load.
I am just pointing out that there are ways to use lesser materials and still get the same amount of life, and with very minimal maint.
I know folks get a bit defensive on this subject. I have a pal who owns a bike performance and acces. shop here locally. Every used bike on his floor has the chains so tight that I know for a fact that the buyer of any bike there will have problems with the chain and sprockets if they don't readjust before riding.
The guy tells me that his procedure for tightening chains is far better than the book. He has the proper amount of sag on each bike's chain. Problem is he is tensioning the chains while sitting on the stand. When they are ridden and the shock compressed, the chains are tearing up themselves, the sprockets, and the wheel bearings due to the chains not being properly tensioned.
The guy doesn't want to hear my noise. He knows best...hell he owns a speed shop, shouldn't he know what he's doing? Yes..indeed he should. He just don't. Nor do his mechanics.
Apparently I'm barking up the wrong tree there too.
Bob,
I agree 100%. There is nothing wrong with using a product that may well decrease the work load.
I am just pointing out that there are ways to use lesser materials and still get the same amount of life, and with very minimal maint.
I know folks get a bit defensive on this subject. I have a pal who owns a bike performance and acces. shop here locally. Every used bike on his floor has the chains so tight that I know for a fact that the buyer of any bike there will have problems with the chain and sprockets if they don't readjust before riding.
The guy tells me that his procedure for tightening chains is far better than the book. He has the proper amount of sag on each bike's chain. Problem is he is tensioning the chains while sitting on the stand. When they are ridden and the shock compressed, the chains are tearing up themselves, the sprockets, and the wheel bearings due to the chains not being properly tensioned.
The guy doesn't want to hear my noise. He knows best...hell he owns a speed shop, shouldn't he know what he's doing? Yes..indeed he should. He just don't. Nor do his mechanics.
Apparently I'm barking up the wrong tree there too.
Lorin
LIFETIME SPONSOR
- Jun 25, 1999
- 948
- 0
Although I agree with you (Jaybird) on the chain maintenance, I would have to call foul (pun intended) on the carb jetting thing. That is neither expensive, or particularly time consuming. I figure that is one of those time\labor things. Jets are relatively inexpensive ($4-$8 each) and I usually only change those twice a year. The only daily adjustment can usually be handled by the air screw. I would think that you could appreciate the extra snap and performance on your "tiddler" bike. On another note, what happened to you being at dirtweek?
What do you reccomend for a Chain Lube Jaybird I read in some old threads you make your own.
Anything close to that, that keeps the chain lubed and doesnt let dirt stick. I have tried Bardahl, Maxima and the Silkolene chain lube but none seem to prevent the dirt from sticking to anything with chain lube on it.
I thought maybe in one of the threads you mentioned the Honda Chain lube works similar to your chain lube preventing crap from building up. Is this true?
Anything close to that, that keeps the chain lubed and doesnt let dirt stick. I have tried Bardahl, Maxima and the Silkolene chain lube but none seem to prevent the dirt from sticking to anything with chain lube on it.
I thought maybe in one of the threads you mentioned the Honda Chain lube works similar to your chain lube preventing crap from building up. Is this true?
- Aug 2, 2000
- 13,510
- 19
whale semenDEX said:
Lorin,
I didn't know if anyone missed me at DW or not. :)
I had a spastic customer who decided at the last minute he had to have some work done during the time I was supposed to be at DW. I always try my best to satisfy my customers, and it did mean a few hundred smackers in my pocket, so I had to set priorities.
I hated it like anything to miss the party, but I had to do what I had to do.
I may hide out a week or two before DW next year so I won't get shainghied again. :)
On the jetting...I was making a point. Of course we should enjoy the benifits of tweeking our carb circuits to optimum.
Actually, any maintenance or tuning we can do to increase performance or equipment longevity is a good idea.
Dex, "dry-film" lubricants were developed to help eleviate the problem of dirt and contamination from sticking to your chain and creating a grinding paste. They are also far superior in reducing friction and can withstand a far greater shock load than conventional petroleum or parafin based lubes.
They also serve as a water dispersant, which also helps to eliminate one step in the chain maint. process...in other words when you apply it, the lubricant disperses water like WD-40 does, yet it cleans, penetrates, and lubricates far better than WD-40 alone could ever do. So you can apply it immediately after washing, wipe it clean, and be confident that your chain will be ready for riding.
Dry film is usually thin bodierd like water, so it is easy to pray on with a comman sprayer or oil can.
It will dry to a semi-dry state shortly after application, which means your chain may look like it needs lubed even when it doesn't.
I also find that whale semen works very well when one finds themselves in a saltwater/south-sea adventure ride. I often will use both dry-film and whale semen together just for the halibut...but I never ride without some sort of lube...not on porpoise anywho.
I didn't know if anyone missed me at DW or not. :)
I had a spastic customer who decided at the last minute he had to have some work done during the time I was supposed to be at DW. I always try my best to satisfy my customers, and it did mean a few hundred smackers in my pocket, so I had to set priorities.
I hated it like anything to miss the party, but I had to do what I had to do.
I may hide out a week or two before DW next year so I won't get shainghied again. :)
On the jetting...I was making a point. Of course we should enjoy the benifits of tweeking our carb circuits to optimum.
Actually, any maintenance or tuning we can do to increase performance or equipment longevity is a good idea.
Dex, "dry-film" lubricants were developed to help eleviate the problem of dirt and contamination from sticking to your chain and creating a grinding paste. They are also far superior in reducing friction and can withstand a far greater shock load than conventional petroleum or parafin based lubes.
They also serve as a water dispersant, which also helps to eliminate one step in the chain maint. process...in other words when you apply it, the lubricant disperses water like WD-40 does, yet it cleans, penetrates, and lubricates far better than WD-40 alone could ever do. So you can apply it immediately after washing, wipe it clean, and be confident that your chain will be ready for riding.
Dry film is usually thin bodierd like water, so it is easy to pray on with a comman sprayer or oil can.
It will dry to a semi-dry state shortly after application, which means your chain may look like it needs lubed even when it doesn't.
I also find that whale semen works very well when one finds themselves in a saltwater/south-sea adventure ride. I often will use both dry-film and whale semen together just for the halibut...but I never ride without some sort of lube...not on porpoise anywho.
