First things first, about your jetting compared to others here. Most jetting specs I've read are for a 200 and not the 220 like you have. The 200 has a larger carb and a more radicaly ported cylinder that requires a richer jetting. I have a 220 and use a 140 main and a 35 pilot with the stock needle at the lst clip (leanest) The only thing different between your bike and mine is that I have boyesen reeds and a fredette torque ring.
Second, to test for a vacuum leak. Start the bike and warm it up. Remove the air filter and squirt a little carberator cleaner down into the intake of the carb. If everything is tight, you just added more fuel without increasing the air, a rich mix that should stall the engine with a flood if you spray a lot. So just spray a little and listen for a drop in RPM or a stutter in the exhaust note. If, on the other hand you have a vacuum leak, such as a damaged intake manifold between the carb and cylinder, then the engine has just gotten an additional load of fuel with the carb spray and a source of air to mix it with via the leak. The engine will rev up. Here in California, we have to go through smog tests on cars and trucks. Most test failures are due to a vacuum leak through a hose that cracked and this simple test using a can of carb cleaner sprayed around hoses, intake manifolds, etc. identifies them quickly. The tester will charge an hour labor at $65 per and usually will just have to trim the end of a vacuum line that cracked with age then reinstall. I digress. Also, don't worry about going too lean. The engine will give plenty of warning before it is damaged. If it isn't knocking or pinging, or over heating, it isn't too lean. Just don't jump on it after a jetting change. Work your way up to full speeds and keep an ear open and a wet thumb testing the cylinder temperature. I hope these tips help.