Jetting

Woodbyrd

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May 28, 2002
37
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I am still mesmerized by jetting and need some help :worship: . Here is what I have:
96 KDX 220 - FMF Gnarly Pipe, FMF Shorty Power Core
Air Box Lid Removed, NGK B8ES Spark Plug
Jetting - Main 142, Pilot 38, Stock Needle In Second From The Top Clip, AS About ¾ of a Turn Out
135-PSI Compression
75 F at About sea Level
Gearing Stock

Now here is the question: why is the bottom end so tame? I would say it almost feels like a lean bog but it only starts to go away by making it leaner? On top of that it wants to let out a slight backfire when you let off the throttle??? I do not want to go leaner because of the clear consequences. The plug also has a dark ring at the base but I not have a good tool to view it other than a flashlight.

With my limited understanding the pipe is supposed to be geared for the low to mid power enhancement. None there when compared to a stock KDX220 I rode the same day. The jetting also seems lean by the other posts I have read.

Thanks and waiting to ride another day! :thumb:
 

CaptainObvious

Formally known as RV6Junkie
Damn Yankees
LIFETIME SPONSOR
Jan 8, 2000
3,331
1
No bottom end...backfire...AS omly 3/4 of a turn...sounds like a leak between the carb and the cylinder. Check the condition of the intake boot. Could also be a bad seal at the pipe (check your o-rings) but my first guess would be the intake boot.
 

Woodbyrd

~SPONSOR~
May 28, 2002
37
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RV6junkie,

Thanks for replying, I will look at the intake boot and see if I see any glaring problems. Do you know how you can test for a small leak? Will a small leak cause this?
I have looked at the exhaust many times and see no signs of leaking there (i.e. gas/oil or dirt collecting on the residue)

The search for knowledge continues!
 

skipro3

Mod Ban
Dec 14, 2002
902
0
First things first, about your jetting compared to others here. Most jetting specs I've read are for a 200 and not the 220 like you have. The 200 has a larger carb and a more radicaly ported cylinder that requires a richer jetting. I have a 220 and use a 140 main and a 35 pilot with the stock needle at the lst clip (leanest) The only thing different between your bike and mine is that I have boyesen reeds and a fredette torque ring.
Second, to test for a vacuum leak. Start the bike and warm it up. Remove the air filter and squirt a little carberator cleaner down into the intake of the carb. If everything is tight, you just added more fuel without increasing the air, a rich mix that should stall the engine with a flood if you spray a lot. So just spray a little and listen for a drop in RPM or a stutter in the exhaust note. If, on the other hand you have a vacuum leak, such as a damaged intake manifold between the carb and cylinder, then the engine has just gotten an additional load of fuel with the carb spray and a source of air to mix it with via the leak. The engine will rev up. Here in California, we have to go through smog tests on cars and trucks. Most test failures are due to a vacuum leak through a hose that cracked and this simple test using a can of carb cleaner sprayed around hoses, intake manifolds, etc. identifies them quickly. The tester will charge an hour labor at $65 per and usually will just have to trim the end of a vacuum line that cracked with age then reinstall. I digress. Also, don't worry about going too lean. The engine will give plenty of warning before it is damaged. If it isn't knocking or pinging, or over heating, it isn't too lean. Just don't jump on it after a jetting change. Work your way up to full speeds and keep an ear open and a wet thumb testing the cylinder temperature. I hope these tips help.
 

Woodbyrd

~SPONSOR~
May 28, 2002
37
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skipro3,
Testing for an intake leak will be easy now. Thank you so much for the information! I will start lowing to main and see the results. I know at this time the bike has never overheated, pinged or even knocked, so going leaner will not be a problem. I will check the plug though just to make sure.

How does your bike perform with your settings? Does the boyessen reeds help to low end snap along with the FRP torquering?

Once again thanks in my continueing education.
 

canyncarvr

~SPONSOR~
Oct 14, 1999
4,005
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At the top of this forum is a stickied post:
'Every kdx rider should read...'

Go there (CDave's site). Bookmark it.

He has basic jetting info listed for step by step modifications.

It's a backfire? Not a 4-stroke (firing every other time) sound? I'd be surprised if it's a backfire.

Adjustment of the AS is via throttle response (all other things being ok..like no vacuum leaks). A quick twist of the throttle, say in 2nd gear from a slow roll should give instant response. There is a difference between a lean bog and a rich one....either of which can come from a misadjusted AS.
 

bscottr

LIFETIME SPONSOR
Sep 20, 2001
1,255
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Originally posted by Woodbyrd
135-PSI Compression

Now here is the question: why is the bottom end so tame?
Woodbyrd,
That is fairly low compression. Is the bike hard to start? How fresh (or not) is the top end?
 

canyncarvr

~SPONSOR~
Oct 14, 1999
4,005
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The original question was in regard to jetting and bottom end effects.

Didn't intend to discount/overlook other obvious factors. Certainly there is a plethora of things that can hose bottom end response other than jetting.

Condition of the topend is certainly one of them. So are reeds and a failed/failing KIPS.
 

Woodbyrd

~SPONSOR~
May 28, 2002
37
0
canyncarvr,
Overlook the obvious!!!! Do it everyday, I am learning and only been riding dirtbikes for 1 year. Explain 4-stoke every other time or point me in the right direction to learn what this is? I have gone to JustKDX many times and reread every step of KDX Hop-up. I just feel that I am missing something and I would guess it is testing.

bscottr & canyncarvr,
I have found some problems with the bike: like repacking the silencer so I am not toting around all this oil. This should help. As far as compression being low, it's only 16-PSI below max and it is not hard to start. Is that bad? I know the cylinder will need replating soon but lacking funds right now. The piston and rings have about 10 rides on and should not need replacing. The KIPS is functioning correctly and pretty clean and the reeds check out just fine.

Thanks for the help.
I will keep asking questions and I will keep reading/rereading until I get it right
 

bscottr

LIFETIME SPONSOR
Sep 20, 2001
1,255
0
Originally posted by Woodbyrd
As far as compression being low, it's only 16-PSI below max and it is not hard to start. Is that bad?

Not necessarily. Since you had already received jetting advice my point was that you should check that the mechanical condition of your bike is in good shape. Often times we’ll chase jetting problems that are induced by other factors. Low compression could be one factor, as could a PV that is stuck open as CC stated.

If you feel confident in the bike's mechanical condition I would follow Tom Ludolff's advice first. This will provide a quick indication of which way you need to go if it IS a jetting problem. If so, then follow the jetting guides mentioned.

Good Luck. :thumb:
 

canyncarvr

~SPONSOR~
Oct 14, 1999
4,005
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'Often times we’ll chase jetting problems that are induced by other factors..'

yeah. what he said!

No offense meant....so don't take one. ;)

re: four stroking
A two stroke engine fires every piston TDC event. A four stroke engine fires every second or every other TDC event. It's not uncommon for a two stroke to 'four stroke' in some situations.......like choke cold starts. The blubbering exhaust note you hear on such a choked start is the two stroke engine firing every other time.

When at speed and not under load with the throttle backed off, you hear the same thing.
 
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