kayaba question

[azzo500]

i have a 2001 kx250, to get at the low speed shim stack, can i simply turn the fork upside down (while still complete) and just undo the comp valve with a rattle gun to get at the shim stack, secondly, will the cartridge inside stay in position for me to screw the comp valve back in again, or do i need to totally dismantle the forks. thirdly, has anyone removed any of the 11 24:1 low speed shims to improve the harshness on this particular model. thanks.....

 

[WhiPit]

ANSWERS ARE:
Yes
Yes (the spring will hold the cartridge in place with a little down pressure)
Removing some of those shims may help a bit, but the real answer isn't that simple.

 

[ActiveRide]

I am not much for using Impact wrenches on the base valve assembly. The aluminum threads are so fine on it I don't do it in fear of damage. Base valves aren't cheap. If you want to take the base valve out without completely taking your forks apart without a impact gun, turn the fork upside down slightly compress the fork and turn the base valve nut. You might have to put it in a vice first to break the assembly free. This a much safer way to do it. Then again I am overly cautious and there are alot of people using impact wrenches. I just can't bring myself to do it.

 

[KTM-Lew]

Active

Very good point. The last set of forks I worked on were off a 99 CR250. The guy dropped them off at my work place so before I left I tried popping them loose with a 1/2 air-gun. NOT! Made an incredibly nasty ripping sound and rounded the rebound adjuster badly. They had been apart before so I'm sure it wasn't in pristine condition but???? So took them home and with them in a vice , on axle clamp area, used an old-school impact driver with a socket that had less lead-in taper and got it right apart.

So the lesson is to allways;
1. Use a 6-point socket with a very little lead-in taper. Would be a good idea to buy some sockets to have milled flat on the end.
2. Hold the forks solidly in a vise at axle clamps.
3. Either place the socket on the base-valve or rebound adjuster on the Showa and give it a couple of whacks with a hammer to release the pressure on the threads or use an old-school impact driver to loosen.

That will be 80 bucks, please! OUCH! Took all the profit out of my FREEBIE job!

 

[azzo500]

THANKS FOR ALL THE REPLYS GUYS, EXCELLENT. :nener:

 

[bikepilot]

I've been using impact guns to remove the valve stack for years and have not had a problem. IMHO a properly used impact gun is less likely to round than using the same tool on a ratchet wrench. The sharp little impacts tend to break things loose while a slow push (like from your hand) tend to round the soft aluminum. A set of 1/2" drive impact rated allen sockets are helpful:)


good luck

 

[Miedosoracing]

Same here, I just make sure they are threaded in about half way before I start using the impact. Making sure that I am not cross threaded or something. Also, If you want to get rid of the harshness for beginner shimming, just leave about 4 24's in. It will be better, but like someone else said, midvalve and other things are required to be perfect. I am working on a midvalve stack for my bike as we speak. Bye taking out all those shims, you will bottom easier. So may have to up the oil level and the clickers to get a desired result. It will be better than stock though.