KDX 200 top end time - anything to address KIPS Rattle while its apart

julien_d · Jan 5, 2009

sr5bidder said:
strange though it seems the noise is in cadence with the kips noise.
I need to change plates and discs in the clutch anyhow (got a bit of drag and cant push with engine off and in gear with clutch pulled) I look at that soon.

Mine does the same. My plates look good though, but the basket is a bit grooved. I think filing out the grooves or replacing the basket will be the best solution in my case.

sr5bidder · Jan 5, 2009

thanks Julien makes me feel better, maybe its the back pressure of the clutch arm that changes the pitch of the kips noise kinda like grabbing a bell while its ringing.

I changed over to transmission fluid, took the exhuast off to clean and check the kips system (looks real clean) and changed to a 155 main jet.

julien_d · Jan 5, 2009

I'm going to go down to a 155 main as well, I do believe. It was a bit warmer out the last time I rode, and the bike was smoking tons. I also have the waterpump seals gone bad and dumping coolant into the tranny, and missing a few teeth on the rear sprocket. I ordered parts friday. 12/48 sprockets, and water pump oil seals.

I'm going to wait until summer to work on the jetting, as that's the temp I'll be riding in 90% of the time.

I just re-read this whole thread, and wanted to highlight this bit from page 1...

legendboy said:
Also the fact that the noise is only at idle and goes away as the revs go up pretty much eliminate the kips system since it isn't doing anything when the engine is at idle..

The noise at idle and going away when it's reved is the indicator that it IS the kips system. When you rev it, there is pressure on the kips as the system is activated. At idle, there is no pressure on the kips system to keep it quiet, so it rattles around in there.

J.

lemmy · Jan 6, 2009

When I first got my KDX the KIPS was installed wrong and it was always activated and there was no rattle. I kept wondering what rattle everyone talked about and just thought I was so used to my rattling clutch on my Ducati that I didn't notice. After I fixed the KIPS it rattles at idle but goes away when I rev (like Julien_d said).

sr5bidder · Jan 6, 2009

and has a bunch off low end power after the fix eh lemmy
by the way hows it idle'n lemmy? everything still good?

mudpack · Jan 6, 2009

Green Hornet said:
It is possible that during servicing the GOVERNOR PIN Broke Off & is now rattling in the Clutch Area. ...

Possibly, but then how does one explain the "KIPS rattle" that my KDX200 has had from the first time it fired up after taking it out of the crate??

Mud

dansavage · Jan 6, 2009

I may be a bit off here, but I purchased a kdx 220 that an older gentleman had, rode a few times, and then garaged for several years. I'm guessing that he burned maybe a tank and a half of a gas in the bike - total.

When I first got it, the kips made no noise whatsoever, now that I've burned 5-6 tanks through it, it rattles at idle then goes away above idle.

My bike still has the supposed 'suspect' stock piston in it, which I'm going to swap out in the next few weekends. I'm not a kips expert, but it seems to me if the bike is idling or running for that matter, there would be pressure on the kips valves, thus they shouldn't rattle? I'll inspect/clean mine when I have it down then reassemble accordingly. I'm new to the kdx world, sounds to me like kips is okay if you have the rattle at idle, and not ok if you don't have the infamous noise at idle???

sr5bidder · Jan 7, 2009

I was looking at my factory manual last night and I think the rattle comes from what they call the main valve it kinda looks like a flat flapper valve like on the top of a semi truck exhuast but with linkage attached. I'm think'n the pressure waves although the main valve is closed makes the main valve lift slightly then slam back down.
Then the linkage and shaft coming from the bottom end wags back and forth in the cetrifigal (spelling) wheel at below 6000 rpm then the throttle is advanced and that centrifigal mech begins to move and apply back pressure on the system and hey no more niose..
Just a theroy guys don't hang me on this

sr5bidder · Jan 7, 2009

so maybe when new the finger and the slot on the centrif. wheel are at tighter tolerences???? If some one wants to buy a new centrif. wheel assembly and shaft to try it out.. let me know the out come

hulagun · Jun 4, 2009

My '96 has the loud knocking "KIPS rattle". The KIPS is assembled and working properly. Pull the clutch in and the rattle drops slightly in volume. None of this effects performance tho, it runs perfectly. I'm wondering if the 220 has a different flywheel weight or crank weight or a thicker cylinder casting which could be the reason the 220 does not seem to have the rattle. um Did I mention my KDX is for sale?

julien_d · Jun 4, 2009

sr5bidder said:
I was looking at my factory manual last night and I think the rattle comes from what they call the main valve it kinda looks like a flat flapper valve like on the top of a semi truck exhuast but with linkage attached. I'm think'n the pressure waves although the main valve is closed makes the main valve lift slightly then slam back down.
Then the linkage and shaft coming from the bottom end wags back and forth in the cetrifigal (spelling) wheel at below 6000 rpm then the throttle is advanced and that centrifigal mech begins to move and apply back pressure on the system and hey no more niose..
Just a theroy guys don't hang me on this

I like your theory, but in my experience the E series have an even louder rattle from the KIPS than the H series engines. The E series do not have a guillotine type main valve, rather it's a rotary valve that is one piece. The KIPS noise sounds almost identical, but perhaps a bit more pronounced in all the E series engines I've heard.

tutender · Jun 5, 2009

It's the sound of sweetness!!!

Porter · Jun 19, 2009

engine noise

my bike 01/H7 has always been noisy.ive split the cases several times over the years and found a few things for certain.you can mess with the Kips during rebuild with things like a thin washer on the main valve flap lever pin to take up play if its worn. Install the sub valves and rods 6 times until your happy with positioning of the sub valves when there open. but no matter what u do they will always make a minor sound thats constant until rpm build. the biggest rattle on most KDX's is the not so great spec between the trans primary shaft and the carrier bearing in the main case(and its relationship to the end bearing the left case). the slop over the years has had no effect on the durability of the motor or its performance. as far as oil levels go, the stock amount + 75 ml is plenty.

KDX 200 top end time - anything to address KIPS Rattle while its apart

Similar Topics

Privacy & Transparency

Privacy & Transparency