Kdx220 Jetting Problem

KylePeterson · Apr 19, 2015

does that mean the stator is dead ?

if yes, why do the lights work fine, and the bike run at all ?

jaguar · Apr 19, 2015

if the stator coil has such low ohms then the bike wont run, which means you arent measuring at the right place. the lights have a seperate coil to get their juice from.

KylePeterson · Apr 19, 2015

jaguar said:
if the stator coil has such low ohms then the bike wont run, which means you arent measuring at the right place. the lights have a seperate coil to get their juice from.

the white/red wire was tested separately from the yellow. the pictures don't show it very well, but i was trying to capture the wires, reading and ohm meter settings all in the shot.

the white/red is the firing coil, the yellow is the lighting circuit

jaguar · Apr 20, 2015

you may have to take the magneto off to positively ID the two wires coming from the stator coil

KylePeterson · Apr 20, 2015

this is the same as what i saw when the flywheeel was off for testing yesterday.

jaguar · Apr 20, 2015

So the yellow and black wires are from the lighting coil and the stator coil outputs to chassis ground and white/red.

KylePeterson · Apr 20, 2015

jaguar said:
So the yellow and black wires are from the lighting coil and the stator coil outputs to chassis ground and white/red.

yes, i believe so

jaguar · Apr 20, 2015

what is the resistance between those two points?

KylePeterson · Apr 22, 2015

jaguar said:
what is the resistance between those two points?

my math skills are worse every day. the best i can tell is 9.2x200k = 1840000, sooooo 1.84 ohm ? i really don't know how this works with this meter.

jaguar · Apr 22, 2015

put it on the 2000 scale and see what it reads

KylePeterson · Apr 23, 2015

bike fell off the stand and broke hte meter this morning. awesome.

checked the KIPs, and found the left side nut had loosened at some point, allowing the timing of the LEFT side (sitting on bike) to fail. got really excited to have actually found a problem with the bike for once, instead of guessing.

timed left side to the right, with the kips pawl full retracted. checked once, twice, three times, and actuated the pawl woth a crescent wrench. both sides were turning, in time.

bike started first kick, ran poorly, and zero change from the throttle inputs. kips is still not functioning, no movement at all from changes in rpm's.

well, i have something else to check on now at least.

KylePeterson · Apr 24, 2015

pulled the clutch cover 4-5 times this afternoon.

the vertical and horizontal kips shafts work freely, without issue.

the centrifugal portion of the kips isn't actuating the vertical shaft, at all.

the dowel on the vertical shaft is in place, and riding between the thrust washers on the centrifugal assembly, like it should.

at this point, since th ebike just bogs when i try to rev it, i don't know if the centrifugal just isn't spinning fast enough to actuate the kips valves, or the kips centrifugal is junk.

any ideas ?

jaguar · Apr 24, 2015

KIPS isn´t causing the problem

KylePeterson · Apr 25, 2015

ok, i'll test electronics and post resutls today.

KylePeterson · Apr 25, 2015

new battery in the meter, works again. sweet.

this mornings readings don't make any sense to me, this is the igntion coil:

and this is the lighting coil:

i'm going to guess i've done something wrong here, since the readings are almost exactly the same for the redwhite (ignition) and the yellow (lighitng) coils ?

KylePeterson · May 7, 2015

new exciter coil arrived today.

old coil: 450 on 2000 scale
new coil: 425 on 2000 scale

I'm going to install it, but i bet it changes absolutely nothing, just like everything else.

then I'll roll it into the corner, and walk away for a couple days instead of smashing the piece of shit with a hammer.

the highlight of the day is, i haven't found a harder problem to diagnose in my life, so at least it's a challenge.

piece of shit.

KylePeterson · May 7, 2015

soldered on the new exciter coil, and it performed exactly like it should, which means the piece of shit didn't change at all.

well, back into the corner the piece of shit goes, until next time.

jaguar · May 7, 2015

you need an original coil. From where did you get that coil?

KylePeterson · May 7, 2015

the new exciter came from ebay
http://www.ebay.com/itm/331271259178?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

i don't think my meter is trustworthy anymore, since every new part shows the exact same readings as the old part, +/- 5-10%. or, all my parts are fine, and, well, we're back to the really expensive guessing game that is electronics replacements.

jaguar · May 7, 2015

that's not an original coil.
those places that sell their own wound coils aren't paying attention to making sure the voltage output is the same as original.
find a good used coil or try to find a new Kawasaki coil.

KylePeterson · May 8, 2015

jaguar said:
that's not an original coil.
those places that sell their own wound coils aren't paying attention to making sure the voltage output is the same as original.
find a good used coil or try to find a new Kawasaki coil.

THIS is from kdxrider.net -

Jaguar said:
The stator coil produces the hundreds of volts that the HT coil needs to convert to thousands of volts so it is more than just a "trigger". That 234 ohms indicates there is a partial short in the stator coil and that it needs to be replaced. Just don't get one from Electrex. Partially shorted means it puts out less voltage than it should which means the final spark voltage will be less than normal. Upon reassembly make double sure all the connections between the stator coil and CDI are very good because a loose connection causes the stator coil to short out. It's hard to explain and harder to understand why but it has to do with high voltage generation due to electrical inertia when the normal flow is interrupted due to a bad connection.

that's some good info, thanks for trying on both forums (and other places i'm sure).

since i'm out of expensive electric parts to try, i'll focus on connections today... AFTER taking the incredibly reliable drz-hooligan out for a few wheelies.

KylePeterson · May 8, 2015

jaguar said:
that's not an original coil.
those places that sell their own wound coils aren't paying attention to making sure the voltage output is the same as original.
find a good used coil or try to find a new Kawasaki coil.

I'm pretty skeptical the coil had anything to do with it now after swapping in the new one.

if there was THAT much variance, there would have been a noticeable better/worse change in the running.

but there was no change at all.

guess ill start looking for a cdi that isn't 180$.

KylePeterson · May 9, 2015

after an early morning scalping session on ebay i found a full wiring harness including cdi/coil/etc.

when it arrives, and is proven to work, i'll ship my old cdi or disassemble it, very carefully so someone can benefit from all this incredibly annoying process.

assuming it actually makes a difference, of course.

KylePeterson · May 16, 2015

jaguar, thank you.

others, thanks also.

i started from scratch, and pulled the carburetor, then reed box.

at some point the lower petal screws feel out, followed by the reed keeper, and lower reed. the bike still started and ran, just very very poorly. I'm amazed it started at all.

further inspection showed there was trash blocking the right intake runner, too soaked with gas mix to tell if it was a mouse or a walnut, but it was blocked just the same.

pulled the cylinder to ensure it was clean, and to check the pistons condition. everything was clean/fine.

spent two hours getting the jetting and needle as close to proper as I'm capable, with WOT runs and some slow speed passes. i settled with 36 / 138 / middle on the needle and 1 3/4 turns on the screw. idle is too low, but it's running well and responded well to throttle. in not happy with constant throttle running, but is manageable.

I'm shocked the bike would run at all with one set of reeds laying in the intake, and thankful i didn't scrap the engine as a result of that. whew!

last night i took my son with me to test the dual led light setup i uncurled two months ago. I'm lyes than impressed, and think i need more voltage to bring them up to acceptable.

right now, I've reinstalled the side stand, and plan to ride it around town to connect trails. when I'm confident i haven't screwed up something else, and it's reliable again, I'll drop it into the stupid hard trails again. you'll get videos of my failures from those expeditions.

for now....

KylePeterson · May 22, 2015

an update-

this is as close as i've gotten with jetting:
36/136, with middle clip on needle, 1 3/4 turns out, and it runs well. roll on is smooth, and WOT is strong. it's a little hiccupy at 1/8-1/4 throttle, but smooths out easily with small inputs. runs better with a load OR during acceleration than it does at constant throttle. i seem to remember this being the case before... maybe i've been riding my drz too much ?

yesterday i changed to:
38/138, smae needle position, same air screw setting. it ran similarly until on the way home from a fuel run. coming down a hill it bogged, and stalled. would not restart, i thought the plug was fouled. kicked it for 10-15 minutes and it finally started, only to bog and stall again within a mile. same procedure to get it running again. i'm assuming it was flooded, but can't be sure.

everything i've read says that 36/136 at 600FT altitude is too lean, but this is the only jetting the bike will run consistantly with.

tomorrow i'm meeting friends at a private trials course, then some trails, then camping at a different location and with some night riding. i'll experiment again once we're at camp and i have a clean place to lay out carb parts.

positive note: the last shakedown (powerlines) run i did was good. bike pulls very well, and the lights might be bright enough to see with at night:

changed over the registration from south dakota to alabama last week, and even carrying my insurance papers... so shouldn't be any hassles from the fuzz ;-)

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