KDX220 won't idle when warm

lemmy

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Jul 24, 2008
139
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Its about 30 here, but no snow. I would like to ride today if I could find a place that was all uphill or flat :)
 

sr5bidder

Member
Oct 27, 2008
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yeah man I work mon-fri tomorrow I will take the front off the bike and put my racetech .38's in and 5wt amsoil full synthetic fluids. then get the old minuki onto my 98kdx if i can stand the cold so,.
don't give up on the 220 lemmy
 

sr5bidder

Member
Oct 27, 2008
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well the mukuni will not fit, I got me forks done today then tried the carb out and it don't fit but i did get to se whats inside of mine ..48 slow jet and 160 main so I may get a 45 and 155 and try them out.

So you can bring your bike down and try my carb out if you want to.
I have to look into an overfloww prob that popped up after taking it apart
 

lemmy

Member
Jul 24, 2008
139
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Thanks for trying. I have a couple of things I am looking in to now. I am going to try a new choke plunger just in case it is leaking around that. Then I am going to take the carb off, tilt it forward and shaking it some to see if any fuel comes out and see where it is coming from (choke, main jet, etc). Also, right where the cable comes in to the top of the carb is really jammed up against the frame. So much so that the rubber boot on the cable is completely torn. It is possible the vibration from the frame is being coupled in to the carb too much and causing agitation/foaming. It was suggested to me by someone else. It is kind of a stretch, but worth a shot. I just don't know if I can get the carb away from the frame. I have tried before and had no luck.
 

lemmy

Member
Jul 24, 2008
139
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I have looked again and the frame is not touching the top of the carb. It was with the RAD valve, but with the stock cage it is moved forward enough that it doesn't contact the frame.

I took the carb off and left it connected to the tank. I leaned the carb forward and shook the carb. The first place fuel comes out is the small hole in the bottom of the throat, closest to the intake. I took the jetblock off and there is an o-ring around that. I think this o-ring is bad and it is allowing fuel that splashes up in to the top of the carb to leak around this o-ring. I have a new o-ring on order.

"C" in this picture
pwk35_jetblock1.jpg


seals around the hole D in this picture
pwk35_bottom.jpg


Then D comes comes out A in this picture
pwk35_intake.jpg


If fuel leaks around that o-ring, it would pretty much be pure fuel and no air coming out of A
 

sr5bidder

Member
Oct 27, 2008
1,463
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you know I was thinking the same thing (leak) about that jet block when i looked at my carb I really have'nt seen one like that before But I did NOT fool with it..

Asfar as my over flow problem I decided to start it up and run it around for a while to shake it up, after that I let it sit there and no more overflow

I would replace all those seals at once

in other words when pointed down hill you are geting fuel from the idle jet and the leaky oring that allows sort of a bypass to the idlejet
 

lemmy

Member
Jul 24, 2008
139
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yeah I think that is what is happening. so it is like having a very large pilot jet. Also, if it leaks around the rest of the jet block fuel can leak in to the carb throat.

So was your bike just overflowing just sitting on the sidestand? Maybe the float got stuck or something?
 

sr5bidder

Member
Oct 27, 2008
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yep I stuck it back together and turned on the fuel and went to dinner what a mess
Anyhow I decided not to take the carb apart but just to turn on the fuel and run it....... after running it around a bit I parked with fuel on and no overflow no problems. Just a matter of assembly ...something a bit jamed

Your problem i believe is about to be over..ITS GOT TO BE AFTER ALL THE CRAP WE'VE BEEN THROUGH...then maybe we can ride Durhamtown together!! KDX STYLE


I'm at the moment split between the kdx and an old xt 250 dirt chopper project... the 1980 xt looks awsome with the rear shock removed (dropped) but I've been smoking up the nieghborhood with the worn xt engine I need to break it down and do the top end, get it registered, then terroize the down town (atlanta) fag yuppies on chinnese scooters with my rat (nasty dirty ugly) dirt chopper during my "working hours"
 

lemmy

Member
Jul 24, 2008
139
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I was hoping the o-ring would get in on Wed. If Sudco shipped on Monday then it is supposed to be a 2 day delivery for Priority mail...but I have found Priority to be unreliable. I hope I get it Friday because I am really anxious to try it out.

Ha, you should take your xt down to Atlanta before the rebuild and really annoy the yuppies!
 

lemmy

Member
Jul 24, 2008
139
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Well I just have to keep on waiting. I ordered part # 021.532 from Sudco and the description is "jet block o-ring". I ordered a bunch of other crap I didn't need to get over the min. order. OF course all of that stuff was right, but I get a little package with 2 throttle springs in it with a sticker on it that says "021-532". So it was mis-labeled. They may not even have any of those o-rings. I am thinking I am just going to have to buy a new carb.
 

sr5bidder

Member
Oct 27, 2008
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I also see in the sudco pages its says do not take any parts out that are not shown in the diagram and the jet block is not shown

you might check with r&b on this as they state they modifythe idle jet air circuitry
so maybee they have an idea where to get or what to use for these seals- o-rings
 

lemmy

Member
Jul 24, 2008
139
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I called Chad with Sudco on Monday and he went and physically put his hand on them and said he would ship out. I hope to get them today or tomorrow.
 

lemmy

Member
Jul 24, 2008
139
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The o-ring came in on Friday. I used Loctite 404 (adhesive for rubber to metal bonding) to place the o-ring in the jet block. Something has to be used to hold the o-ring down while installing it or it could get pinched and 404 holds up to gasoline. I put the carb back to gether today and it runs great now. I have the float level at 18mm and warmed it up to 140 degrees and got on the same hill it wouldn't rn on and it didn't drop any RPMs even while compressing the suspension. The bike is running great now! Thanks for the many suggestions and help.
 

sr5bidder

Member
Oct 27, 2008
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Very cool man I wonder if it should be noted that the carb should not be dunked due to the jet block having all those seals and the manufacturtes recomendation that this piece (the jet block) not be removed?
Lemmy also as a rule of thumb you should probably post all the info nessarry in order to find these orings as it would be very handy.

It took some time but now you can get on with the riding!!
 

dansavage

Member
Jul 14, 2008
82
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Lemmy -

Glad to hear you got your carb right... Did you stay with the jetting specs you noted on page 1 of this posting - 35 pilot, CEK needle, 155 main? If so, what clip position did you dial it in at?

I've got a 35mm carb on my 220, but am still using a kawa needle and fat pilot. Just ordered/received the cek and 35 pilot, curious to know where to begin with the clip position and what to expect with regards to improvements in performance.

TT
 

lemmy

Member
Jul 24, 2008
139
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I moved my jetting around quite a bit. I am currently at at 152 main, 42 pilot, 1173L needle with clip in #2 position. It was running good the other day at 35 degrees, but it was just on flat ground. I think that I now have the bike running right, I will start fine tuning the jetting and go back to the CEL needle.
 

lemmy

Member
Jul 24, 2008
139
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Yes, I would definitely say it is not a good idea to dip the carb or even spray lots of carb cleaner in this area. Even though it says not to take the jet block off, I wouldn't think twice about removing it because the gasket is held in place by some sort of adhesive. So I would just take the block out and dip the rest of the carb, then put it back in.

As far as getting the part, you should be able to get it from any place that carries Keihin PWK parts. I got it directly from Sudco. The part # is 021-532 and the price was about $4.50. Of course they have a $25-$30 minimum order. MxSouth had this part listed as available, but they were going to require me to make a minimum order from Sudco, so I just ordered directly from Sudco. When I called them they had 5 in stock. I got 2 of them. The part is listed on page 128 of their V33 catalog. It is not shown in the exploded diagram, but is listed at the bottom of the parts listing.
 

sr5bidder

Member
Oct 27, 2008
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so if you only got two of the item you needed what else did you order to make up the difference?

seeings how you like to expirement with stuff maybee different slide valve cutaways #6 ???
 

lemmy

Member
Jul 24, 2008
139
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I didn't get a different slide, but that would have been a good idea. I just got an extra float valve and two vent hoses (mine were very hard) to push it up to $30.
 

dansavage

Member
Jul 14, 2008
82
0
Hey guys, next time you need vent hose, go to an outdoor power equipment retailer, they typically have weed eater/chain saw gas line that is equivalent to that of our carb vent lines. The stuff is dirt cheap.

Cheers
 
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