KLX 300

[Dewster]

I just picked up a 1997 KLX 300 with a broken idler gear. Once I got it apart, I noticed that the idler gear shaft and bearing were also broken. Not to mention the case has a 1/4 inch crack. I ordered the parts (from Stroker) and I am getting ready to split the case and repair it. I have a buddy with a magnesium welder who is going to fix the crack. Is there anything else I should know before I tackle this project? Once I get it repaired, do I need to check the idler gear periodically? Are there any other chronic problems besides the ones mentioned on PlanetKLX.com? Just looking for some first hand advise. Any input would be appreciated.

 

[penguin]

Just the idler gear and the valves needing adjustment frequently. The KLX is pretty bulletproof except for those 2 problems. that and ocassional hard starting.

 

[MCassle]

The only time my 97 KLX300 is hard to start is when I dump it & it's hot (ambient temp.)...otherwise over the years I have got the starting technique down to where I can start it first kick 90% of the time.

Matt

 

[Dewster]

I have got the starting technique down to where I can start it first kick 90% of the time.

:eek:

Starting technique?

 

[Dewster]

Mcassle, what works best when it's hot and you dump it?

Also, have you had any problems with the shift gear or idler gear?

 

[KLX_BOY]

When starting from either hot/cold, NEVER,NEVER wind on the throttle!
It will not start if you so much as open the throttle a millimetre. Always find TDC and kick it through slowly 2/3 times. Find TDC again and then give a smooth long strong kick. Works 90% plus everytime for me.
Also purchase an idler from Stroker. They have a modded gear which contains a different grade steel to facilitate longer lasting. My KLX 250 also had a busted idler. Quite a common prob for all verieties of KLX I believe.
Hope this helps.
Allan and son Scott KLX_BOY.

 

[MCassle]

Originally posted by Dewster
Mcassle, what works best when it's hot and you dump it?

Also, have you had any problems with the shift gear or idler gear?

If I dump it & it's hot, same procedure as normal (finding first resistance, going through that, second resistance, approximately 30 degrees past that, kickstarter all the way to the top, kick it like you mean it), but I hold the throttle wide open. Keep in mind I have the stock CV carb. I'm almost certain if you tried this with a pumper it wouldn't work.

I replaced the idler gear and installed Strokers shift kit, but I end up getting false neutrals once in a while anyway (although not as often as I used to). I never had problems with the stock idler gear, but after seeing that pic on KLXPlanet of a broken one (& case), I changed it out as a prevention measure.

Matt

 

[Dewster]

This is what I've been told from a guy at Stroker.

Get to TDC, go past it until you hear a "click". The "click" is supposed to be the KACR (Kawasaki Automatic Compression Release). Bring the kickstarter back up then kick. Do you guys hear a click?

I know I'm being anal :ugg: , but I just split my case last night in preparation to repair it. It dosen't look as bad at the one on PlanetKLX.com but it's still screwed up. The idler gear, shaft, and bearing was broken and the case took a beating. It can be repaired, but I just don't want this to happen again.

 

[MCassle]

Dewster - good luck on the case, that has to be such a bummer! I've never heard a click, I'll pay extra attention next time I try to start the bike, and maybe I'll hear it & I'll get that 'starting technique' down to a science!

Matt