KTM brakes

[firecracker22]

Okay, I’ve decided after talking to a few people with experience with the Brembos that I don’t like my brakes. I thought it was me—well, it mostly is—but those things are touchy. I am tired of the front end washing out or going over the handlebars. I thought about never changing or bleeding the fluid, or pumping air into the lines, just to soften them a little.

But I’d rather do it the right way. What type of pads will provide a less touchy braking experience for Firecracker?

 

[baxterj787]

Try some EBC sintered metallic pads. They last a good long while, and the hard compound creates less friction, which results in less grabby brakes.

 

[Jaybird]

I agree with baxter's recommendation. I tried the EBC's on my 125 and the back was mucho better, the front was less noticible, but was a change. I think you can use the pads from a late model CR 250, they are a bit smaller but will fit.

 

[KToM300]

Ditto on the sintered pads. Also use anti-squeek glue on the backings for the front.
-Tom

 

[Bob Brooks]

I'm not sure about the recommendation for late model CR250 pads on KTM brakes. I was told the same thing, and I currently have CR250 EBC pads on the front of my '01 300 MXC, and the pads didn't fit without modification. They work fine once I got them to fit, but I did have to hog out the pin holes. As for the rear brake pads, I also tried EBC late model CR250 pads, and they're too small. They will fit in the caliper, and they work fine, but the pad is too small to stay in the caliper properly. The pads move around too much, and if you back the bike up, the pad can actually come out. From now on, I'm sticking to pads that are manufactured for the KTM pads and not substituting.

 

[Magoo]

Let's Trade!

Go figure, I have trouble with my front brake NOT grabbing well...It seems most conversations regarding late model KTM (front) brakes revolve around how to get the thing firmed up! I'll gladly trade my (less grabby) front brake for your (too grabby) front brake. Feel free to PM me to discuss!
Otherwise, my back brake was extremely grabby with the stock setup, and fortunatly the stock rear pads only last about 100 miles anyway! I replaced with the Braking brand pads (per Lansing Cycle reccomendation), and have been a happy rider with well modulating rear brakes ever since.

 

[ktmboy]

FC22-----Did you try a one or two fingered approach? Just checking, 'cause I find I brake with a lot more control on the front if I only use two fingers on the lever. You can also use the other two fingers to wick the throttle if needed. You may already be doing this, but it's just a suggestion I thought of if you're not. As far as the back goes, yeah, it's a light switch, but you learn to live with it after awhile. Just make sure you're pulling the clutch in too, or you'll get a lot of practice doing bump starts!:confused:

 

[sharp]

When I installed the bark busters on my GG I cut the levers (clutch and brake) way down so that only two fingers fit. This has helped me to have a bit more subtle control.

 

[KaTooMer]

Don't worry, your Brembos will soon lose their grabby quality and you'll yearn for the days of yore when they worked well. The key is back bleeding. Once they fade, that's the only way I've found to get the air out of the system.

 

[Wolf]

I'm with Magoo on this. I wish my front brakes would grab a little better.
I went to a solid rotor on the rear and would have to say that it greatly improved the action. I can apply the rear brake a lot smoother now.

 

[jeb]

Originally posted by Bob Brooks
As for the rear brake pads, I also tried EBC late model CR250 pads, and they're too small. They will fit in the caliper, and they work fine, but the pad is too small to stay in the caliper properly. The pads move around too much, and if you back the bike up, the pad can actually come out. From now on, I'm sticking to pads that are manufactured for the KTM pads and not substituting.

Bob, I never tried the CR pads on the front but I run/ran sets of OEM HONDA pads on my 98 and 99's with no problems. They worked awesome, AAMOF. I'm not sure about the 00's and newer, though. I can't use the Honda pads now because the Scott's billet shark fin caliper carrier is a bit shorter in the pad area so the pads drop down as you describe. My guess is that if you run the Honda branded pads in your bike, the problem would stop.

 

[firecracker22]

I only use 2 fingers, or sometimes one. It's one of the few GOOD riding habits I've managed to teach myself. I thought that I could put a less grabby pad in now, and then when I'm more aggressive and want touchier brakes, I can buy some different pads again.

Thanks for all the replies. I'll check out th EBC pads.

 

[Bob Brooks]

Jeb, I have not tried OEM Honda pads. The ones I've been using are EBC. Unfortunately, none of our local Honda dealers seem to stock the OEM Honda pads. I'd have to special order them and if I'm going to do that, I might as well just use the KTM pads. Thanks for the info though. If I run across any of the OEM pads at any of the local shops, I'll give them a try in the rear.

 

[Jaybird]

Bob,
I didn't have to do one thing to the CR EBC's on the front of my 125sx, they fit perfect. But after seeing your post I checked my back pads and they are only in the front honch about 1/8 of an inch:eek: I put KTM pads back on the back. I hate this, as the EBC's made a world of difference in the "locking up" of the rear wheel. I may look at the OEM Hondas.

 

[Bob Brooks]

Jaybird, I agree with you, the EBC Honda brakes did work better in the rear than the KTM brakes on my bike too. It's too bad they're too small and don't fit properly. If you try the OEM Honda pads, let us know your results. I don't know of any Honda shops in my area that stock the OEM pads, all they ever have on the shelf is the aftermarket stuff.

 

[DoubleD]

I know a few people who totaly switched out their front brakes for a honda setup or even just the master cylinder. The results are great!

 

[wayneg]

Hello

One thing to be a bit careful of is that the harder compund pads may wear out your disks quicker. I've noticed with my old KLX that when I put some sintered EBC pads in the disks scored very quickly. It may just be the type of mud that I was riding in - it may be super abrasive or something!!

I stuck to the original soft stock pads after that, bit added a very small amount of free play to the lever travel (about 5mm). I found that this gave me a bit more feel for when I was about to lock up and splat!!

One thing I've found since buying a trials bike is that having the correct weight distribution when braking makes a huge difference. You can move around a lot more on a trials bike, and get your weight in just the right place to make sure that you don't lock up. Obviously the speeds are a lot slower, but the basic principles are the same. The point I'm trying to make is that you shouldn't be scared to move around on the bike to make sure that your brakes bite with out locking. One of my main faults when riding previously on the old KLX was that I didn't move around enough on the bike.

Having a look at the video of the guys playing around on the Gas Gas Pampera gives you a hint of whats possible with using the front brake. The guy with the large number 1 on this shirt is Geoff Aaron - a multi national trials champ in the US, and the other guy is also a top trials rider in the US.

Cheers
Wayne

 

[Reon]

firecracker22,

Do you have a Bridgestone tyre on the front ?? If you do dump it and get something better like a Michelin or Metzler. The bridgestones dont behave properly when you climb on the brakes.