firecracker22

Sponsoring Member
Oct 23, 2000
3,217
0
Can anyone offer suggestions for the proper break-in procedure for a new bike? What do I do? I’ve never had a new bike before, much less a 2-stroke. I’ve heard a lot of conflicting stories. I have a hare scramble May 6 so April 28 and 29 are my only days to get used to it before I have to race in the tight, nasty, slippery woods . . . something tells me I’m coming home with bruises. Anyway, what do I do when I get my new scoot home? What do I take apart and grease?

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Between bikes at the moment--but a pumpkin is looming on the horizon!
http://y42.photos.yahoo.com/flyin_firecracker22
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Patman

Pantless Wonder
LIFETIME SPONSOR
Dec 26, 1999
19,774
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Grease EVERYTHING that requires it unless you trust the dealer did it right (many don't). Put thread locker on every critical fastener and put anti seize on the fasteners that hold the shrouds to the tank if they are still using the aluminum bolts with brass "nuts" to keep them from fuseing. Also it's a GOOD idea to pull every electrical connection and give it a dab of dielectric grease to keep the electrons flowing and the connections clean. Adjust all the controls to a comfortable position andget a few extra spark plugs because KTM's are not typically jetted just right. See if your dealer has any suggestions on jetting and will do it for you as part of their "prep". Mix your own fuel (again unless you REALLY trust the shop) and follow the break-in instructions in the manual. Change the gear lube and clean the magnet after the first ride because it will be dirty.

Oh and have fun
biggrin.gif


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I ride, therefore I crash
KTM 360EXC
 

mudratsdad

Member
Jan 23, 2001
6
0
First I would like to say welcome to orange.

As with any new bike, dealer set up is sometimes not as good as it should be. Check case fluid, coolant, Grease front and rear axles, swing-arm and steering head. KTM's are notorious for vibrating bolts loose, everything that you do not plan on taking apart for routine maintenance red locktite and blue the rest that way you can make sure that everything is tight and safe. Start with a good quality oil at the recommended mix start the bike on a stand and let it warm up then run the bike through the gears up and down a couple of times while still on the stand. Drain the case and fill. Then you get to ride, take it easy at first to break the bike in under load for a while and then off you go. Depending on your riding style, elevation you may have to change getting. Fork seals are expensive and have a tendency to wear and leak. Depending on your riding environment I would suggest getting a set of fork boots and under the boots on top of the seals wrap some yarn and tie this also helps to eliminate the junk from getting down and wearing the seals.


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Strick

LIFETIME SPONSOR
Nov 8, 1999
1,782
2
I choose the break it in like you are going to ride it philosophy. I ride mine, either new or new top/bottom end, for 15 minutes at no more than 1/2 throttle, rolling on and off when possible instead of off/on type of throttling. Let the bike cool down.

Then, I riding the living -------- out of it from then on.

You will probably get a lot of different answers on this
wink.gif


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Strick '99 KTM 300mxc, AMA & BRC member
 
Mar 1, 2001
27
0
Hey FC22,

A couple specific areas to watch...

Subframe bolts, they come loose all the time.

Rear Sprocket bolts. I've watched more than one hub get destroyed because of this.

Safety wire the clips holding the break pin.

Where are you racing on the 6th? We are planning to race the Main Jet HS up in Canada.

So have you decided if you plan on going to Vantage?

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Ellwood
01 KTM 300EXC
98 XR430
Thanks to: Smith, MSR, Torco, IMS, Sprocket Specialists.
 

TexKDX

~SPONSOR~
Aug 8, 1999
747
0
To answer your first question FC22, it is pretty simple. Heat cycle the motor (start it cold, blip throttle to warm up, feel both radiators with your hands for fluid being hot, let sit and cool completely, about 2 hours) 3 times. After cooled the 3rd time, go ahead and put on some riding gear and put the motor under load. Grunt it around, coast alot, don't run to max RPM. Just try to keep it from loading up and don't WFO it.

While it is hot, drop the oil and re-fill. Let it cool a 4th time, then go ride the SOB. Since you are transitioning from a xr to this, go ride it as hard as you want to. You won't hurt it. Just no WFO in the sand dunes or something like that, but go ahead and run it up on the pipe.

After this "real" ride you is broke in, baby. Just don't let any hot dogs on it during the first real ride who like to keep it on the rev limiter.

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TexKDX
 

firecracker22

Sponsoring Member
Oct 23, 2000
3,217
0
ironmtn--I am racing the Muddy Butt hare scramble in St. Maries, ID. I used to live there (for about 3 months) so I have the advantage of having rode there in the past. And the disadvantage of knowing what it will be like! Slippery mud and lots of trees! Oh well. It'll be a "learnign experience" and will help me "build character."
wink.gif


I think I will probably be there at Vantage, though with out a bike I won't race. Some friends from Spokane are racing and I'll be cheering them on. I'm 5'7", blonde, and drive a red Toyota.

Thanks everybody, for the pointers! I can't wait. Looks like I may go over to Spokane the 28-29 to ride with Bbbom and family--there's some good trails over there, easy enough for me to get used to the new bike and challenging enough to get in shape for the Muddy Butt. I'll probably take it right to the BBR shop to show it off to the guys when I get it and put on my plastic, graphics and barkbusters there, and break it in in the parking lot. While listening to them make jokes about european bikes and 2-strokes! Oh well.

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Between bikes at the moment--but a pumpkin is looming on the horizon!
http://y42.photos.yahoo.com/flyin_firecracker22
E-mail me at flyin_firecracker22@yahoo.com
 

PTCruiser

Member
Aug 25, 2000
73
0
I, for one, have often wondered about these break-in proceedures. I can't imagine not doing these things, but what about the factory guys you always hear about who replace the top-end and then go out and ride the SX main? Or Shane Watts who un-crates a bike an then stomps everybody at the GNCC? If it was damaging and could hurt performance I wouldn't think they'd do it...

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HiG4s

~SPONSOR~
Mar 7, 2001
1,308
0
Originally posted by PTCruiser:
I, for one, have often wondered about these break-in proceedures. I can't imagine not doing these things, but what about the factory guys you always hear about who replace the top-end and then go out and ride the SX main? Or Shane Watts who un-crates a bike an then stomps everybody at the GNCC? If it was damaging and could hurt performance I wouldn't think they'd do it...



You have to rememeber, the factory guys don't have to pay for the bikes. In the short term I'm sure the bike is just as fast as if broken in properly (That and I'm sure their mechanic does some break-in) but certianly they need to be rebuilt much sooner (like the next day). You have to also remember a real racers attitude is faster, faster you fool, you fool. Bike damage (or body damage) never even enters their minds.


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Strick

LIFETIME SPONSOR
Nov 8, 1999
1,782
2
There are a lot of witness that have seen Wattsy's bike arrive at his races in a crate, never riden. The ride it like you stole it, is his break in method. If FC goes by the manual, she probably won't be racing on May 6.

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Strick '99 KTM 300mxc, AMA & BRC member
 

mudratsdad

Member
Jan 23, 2001
6
0
There is a big difference between them and us. They have the bikes given to them and if it breaks someone else fixes it or they get a new one. We spend what we can and most of us go into debt, so we want what we have to last as long as possible.

Kinda like a spoiled kid, they do not appreciate what they have until they have to pay for it themselves or pay to have it fixed.

I cringe every time I have to put in a top end in my son’s bike between motos and know that I will not have the time to break it in the way I want, because I know that I will be doing it again soon.


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LoriKTM

Super Power AssClown
Oct 4, 1999
2,220
6
New Mexico
I did a procedure similar to Tex's, with a graduated warm up, short ride, cool down, and repeat. After doing that about 3 times, make sure you change the oil.

Also, once it is broken in and you start to ride it normally, DON'T forget to check and tighten the spokes after each ride, for the first 3 or 4 times. It's a good time to go around with a wrench and check the other little things. (Watch the kickstart bolt, too).
 

WoodsRider

Sponsoring Member<BR>Club Moderator
Damn Yankees
Oct 13, 1999
2,812
0
For proper break-in, the WoodsRider way!

1) Run your bike WFO into the nearest tree scratching up all that new plastic.

2) Next, find the steepest, gnarliest hill you can, and as you're climbing it, loop out the bike and rip off the rear fender.

3) When you can finally climb that hill, make sure to ghost the bike up the last 10 feet, there's usually a nice big drop-off on the other side that's great for those custom bar-bends.

4) Then find a big rock garden and...

Oh, wait a minute, you're talking about that other break-in... never mind!

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'98 GasGas EC250

[This message has been edited by WoodsRider (edited 04-20-2001).]
 

Dirthead

Member
Dec 6, 2000
20
0
Let it idle up to temp and then let it cool. Then just ride it! Nothing is going to happen. This whole business about it lasting longer if done this way or that way is nonsense.

With the synthetics that are run in two strokes these days, the rings never have a chance to seat properly anyway. If you want to really do it right, use straight castor for a tank and then drain it and begin running a synthetic.



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yarbonwick

Sponsoring Member
Mar 7, 2000
674
0
FC did I mention that I own a New Bike Break-In business? You spend all that money on a new scoot, send it to me and in a months time, it'll be properly broken-in. Or broken, but who's counting?

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Lloyd TMTC #540 - Y2K KTM 250 E/XC
Please sign my Guestbook at My Homepage
"You're fast 'cause the fast guys stayed home!!"
 

endoquest

LIFETIME SPONSOR
Dec 4, 2000
325
0
Also check your spokes after the first few rides. I know they're big and beefy but I've had ALOT of them loosen up on my katooms. Congrats, you'll really enjoy yhe bike once you get used to it.

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President,ETRA.
'01 KTM520E,
'99 KTM200E,
'93 CR500R
enee,menee,minee,mo
 

P_Taylor

Uhhh...
Jun 17, 2000
106
0
If any of you know a dealer that went to the dealer show at the factory ask them how they test the motors on the assembly line.

I was talking to the local KTM dealer here and and he mentioned how hard they test the motors and questioned if the break was needed after the way they test them.

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Patrick Taylor
 

Buckholz

Member
Mar 15, 2000
396
0
In KTM Underground a couple of years back(that's ktm's quarterly newsletter), Mike Rosso discussed proper breakin for your new KTM.

Gist of the article was:
1. Start it up, warm it up gently, until both radiators are warm to the touch.
2. Gradually ride off and take it easy for the first 5 minutes.
3. Ride for the next couple of hours at 3/4 race pace, not bogging the engine, not flogging the engine. He said something like, "... a easy/fast ride thru the woods"
4. After burning a tank full of fuel, your KTM is broken in.
5. Change the tranny or engine oil, tighten spokes, tighten drive sprocket bolts, locktite your kickstand, tighten subframe bolts,....

Go race. Remember to always let your water cooled bikes warm up before taking off.



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Buckholz

Member
Mar 15, 2000
396
0
Ah, just found the article.
Title "How to (not) sieze your new bike" 1999 Vol2, by Mike Rosso, KTM USA Tech Mgr

Before your even kick your new bike over, change jetting to match your area. KTM's come jetted for 1500 ft elevation and 70F. (Buckholz note - Newer &gt;99 KTM's come with an jetting chart in the back of the orange book, it works really well for me, as an aggressive A rider. I live at 7,000' but ride 5,000' higher or lower on any given weekend. The one mod I have made to jetting is to lower my float level/fuel height by about 3 mm)

1. Make sure your oir filter is oiled and properly installed.
2. Never assume the fluids are all there.
3. Always use the motorcycle manufacturer's recommended oil ratio when mixing your fuel. (Buck note - use premium fuel, mix in a steel gas can, use a premium "power valve" premix, pitch it, or burn it in the lawnmower when it is approaching 1 month old as the lube properties are going bad.)
4. Double check your jetting.
5. Warm it up. ....Do not rev it "to clean it out!" Just let it run at a moderate rpm until you can grab the bottom of the radiator and feel it warming up....

6. Vary your engine speed during the first ride. It's best to do the break-in ride in a familiar place, where you can ride without a lot of hesitation or closed-throttle coasting. You want to ride at a moderate speed, be able to use all the gears, and be in a place where you're not afraid to use the throttle. The best would be a well-known hare scrambles course or open woods loop, where you can short shift and ride it at about three-quarters of your racing pace. Don't be afraid to rev the engine out, but don't scream it; and avoid "lugging" the engine up hills or in tight stuff. Coasting down roads or downhills with the throttle closed should be avoided. A closed throttle is the number one cause of piston seizures. Your break-in ride should be nothing more than an easy trailride at a moderate pace. There's no need to stop and let the engine cool, then ride some more, stop and let it cool.....one good, long moderate ride, using a whole tank of fuel should be enough to seat everything in your engine.

7. Avoid crunching your bike into gear. ...pull the clutch in during warmup, blip the throttle a few times, then let it throttle down before clicking it into gear, this breaks the clutch plate stiction, minimizing the "crunch" when you first put it into gear.
8. Change the oil. ...your tranny and clutch will last the longest and work the best if you change your oil after every ride....

Buckholz note - My two cents on tranny oil for a two stroke as a fatboy A enduro racer. Use one of the all purpose diesel oils (15W-40) and change the oil every ride (&gt;50 miles). The diesel oils, Shell Rotella, Delo 400, Walmart universal, have lots of dispersants, are about the right weight ~85w gear, and are relatively cheap around $1.25 to $1.50 per quart. I buy in 1 to 2 gallon jugs.

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[This message has been edited by Buckholz (edited 04-22-2001).]

[This message has been edited by Buckholz (edited 04-22-2001).]
 

Bonehead

LIFETIME SPONSOR
Mar 15, 2001
406
1
IT IS WARING OUT FROM THE FIRST KICK

KTM'S all motor mounts have locked nuts
READ the manual first

picked up my 520 EXC on friday checked the oil raced an I.S.D.E. on saturday(OPEN EX)
GOLD METAL
P.S. KTM'S need RACE GAS

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firecracker22

Sponsoring Member
Oct 23, 2000
3,217
0
Thanks all! I'll put all this great advice to use Friday--I pick up my new scoot tomorrow afternoon and take it out to a track (there are trails too, which I think I will stick to at first) Friday morning with a very nice young man who offered to teach me the ins and outs of 2-stroke ownership. Then I will ride with Bbbom and crew all weekend to get used to it a little more!

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Between bikes at the moment--but a pumpkin is looming on the horizon!
http://y42.photos.yahoo.com/flyin_firecracker22
E-mail me at flyin_firecracker22@yahoo.com
 

TexKDX

~SPONSOR~
Aug 8, 1999
747
0
Originally posted by Bonehead:

picked up my 520 EXC on friday checked the oil raced an I.S.D.E. on saturday(OPEN EX)
GOLD METAL
P.S. KTM'S need RACE GAS


Funny, cuz a SIX DAY event won't be over until TOMORROW...

Guess your screen name is fitting.



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TexKDX
 


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