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I'd be leary of using anything made of wood, especially a broom stick that is frequently leaned against a wall. Wood warps.Originally posted by Jaybird
... A 50cent dowel rod or even a broomstick will do the trick.
I think that you're overplaying the fact that a cam-type adjuster is either too tight or too loose. Considering the amount of swingarm travel, and setting the correct chain slack, the incremental adjustments provided by the KDX cam adjusters are small enough to get the right amount of chain slack. I don't believe that it is a crap-shoot at all.Originally posted by Jaybird
... You are either too tight or too loose with a cam type adjustment...well yes, you can be spot-on by using them, but it will not stay that way when the chain does (and it eventually will) elongate. Being exactly correct and having the precise chain sag is a crap shoot at best with a cam type adjuster.
Granted, the chain will be it's tightest, and at it's most correct tension, when the centerline of the CS sprocket is farthest from the CL of the rear sprocket. Consider then that the "most correct" tension is only in effect a minority of the time. At all other times it varies between correct tension, and acceptable slack (according to bike specifications).Originally posted by Jaybird
... If you set your tension spot-on with a screw adjuster and it loosens just a bit during your ride, you can effectively get the exact adjustment back. Not so with a cam type adjuster. You may well be in between adjustment. And for that reason I CAN single out snail adjusters. Granted it's not of great concern that you are a bit too loose, but being a bit too tight, which can easily happen if you aren't careful, can and will be a problem.
Now there's a compelling reason for screw adjusters. Although I still think given a cam design with enough grandularity, it'd work fine.Originally posted by tedkxkdx
I really have a problem with my snail adjusters considering the sprocket sizes and chain length I am dealing with. My chain is a couple links short ...
My bike manual gives the spec for chain slack as 55mm-66mm. About 3/8" range for being in spec. The only finger method I know of involves salt, lemon, Two-Finger Tequila, and a tan belly you could bounce a quarter off of.Originally posted by Jaybird
When you say "in spec", are you saying that the three finger method still holds true? Trust me, no bike manual goes in-depth with chain tension.
Sorry you missed the point. I'm not necessarily arguing for or against either type of chain adjuster, or that "close enough" is "better" than correct. Pretty absurd assumption actually.
I'm not quite certain, but is your argument that close is far better than being spot-on and correct? If so, then I have to agree....close is far better than being correct. (shakin head)
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