Looking for reputable Kawasaki mechanic

[the_monk]

It looks like I might need a bottom end on my '99 KX250. Any recommendations on reputable Kawasaki mechanics here in N. TX?

I've got a sleeved cylinder, top end kit, and new reed on the way. I'd like a second opinion on the bottom end before I sink another chunk of change into a bike that might not be worth it.

 

[JMD]

Hey, Monk! Good to hear from you. It's got to be worth doing the bottom end, even at $700 or so, which is probably what it will cost. Because without it, what's the bike worth? So you have to fix it. Maybe James's friend can do the bottom end for you. He might be a bit more reasonable than a shop. How are your injuries healing up?

 

[the_monk]

Healing up well. Most things are ahead of the new and improved schedule and I should be back in the saddle in April.

Just ordered the rod, crank bearings, oil seals, and other bits and pieces to do the bottom end. Guess I'll go ahead and keep the Kwaker for another few years. I think it is going to become a dedicated MX bike when I finally pull the trigger on a 450. So far, I'm in for about $550 without buying a new crank. That includes a "new" sleeved Millenium cylinder (big 'ol gouge in my current one), top end kit w/forged piston, all bearings, new rod, all gaskets, and a new "bottom/mid" reed. With the new suspension and wheel bearings last fall, all I need now is a freshened up fork and shock and it'll be brand new. I might just have to buy some new plastics, graphics, pedals, and levers to make it look and feel new, too.

I talked with James' buddy. He'll be good to me. The tranny still shifts very positive with minimal slop and no false neutrals, but I'll have him go through all that while he's in there too.

As a side note, I just bought my kiddo a (used) KTM Pro Sr 50 so he can start his illustrious MX career. We'll be heading there as soon as he gets it.

 

[tx246]

buy the crank. while the rod kit is 80bucks or so, the labor to press the crank and the two trips to the machine shop eat up the difference over a new factory crank. another plus is that the clearances of a factory crank are right on. it takes quite a bit of skill to press crank halves together and get them aligned correctly. the problem with having someone do it is that you have to take them at their word as far as accuracy goes. there is no way to check a crank without vblocks.

if you have any mechanical skills, splitting cases, using a factory manual, is not that hard. sometimes the hardest part is getting the flywheel off. it is handy to have acess to a press when things go together though.

 

[the_monk]

Here's the KX update. I orderd the parts to rebuild the bottom end before I saw TX's post. So, lesson learned. I had what seems like a decent guy rebuild it, but I won't know until I see how it runs and holds up. The failure turned out to be a hosed crank bearing on the left side (wet side) of the motor. The bearing is REALLY hard to turn. This heated up and softened up the crank seal enough to let tranny fluid into the motor. The crank looks to be in good shape. It has discolored slightly around that bearing. According to the machinst that's trueing it up, it's still good, but should probably be replaced during the next bottom end. There doesn't appear to be any one particular failure that caused the bearing to go. The general concensus is failure due to old-age. The broken radiator on the other hand, that goes for welding today. Hopefully, I can get it back by Friday.

The rush for Friday is because my kiddo's new (used) KTM Pro Sr. 50 came in the mail this week! I'm pretty sure that crazy little thing is as fast as my 250. It's nuckin' futs. I was a bit scared riding it around the neighborhood. Pulling throttle-only wheelies up the street was a bit unnerving and WAY more power than I expected. I'm a little bit nervous putting my kiddo on it. I'm sure he'll love it though... If he survives the first ride, that is.

So, the plan is to test ride/break in the bikes at Rocky Ridge this Saturday for a few hours. Anybody?

 

[JMD]

Monk, you might try adjusting the powervalve on the little 50 to tame that power. What I did on Jimbo's first YZ80 was to use a flat washer with a hole in it inside the exhaust header. The washer o.d. needs to be just enough to fit inside. The size of the hole you drill in the washer will determine the power -- little hole, litle power; big hole, bigger power. Then when he gets used to it, you can take the washer out for the really big power. Sorry to miss you at Kiamichi this weekend, but time with your boy is a much better investment than hanging with us goofballs.

 

[the_monk]

Thanks for the tip.

I have a funny feeling that I'll be spending ALOT of time with that KTM. That thing revs to the moon and basically has two output levels: off or on.

KX UPDATE: I just got my broken radiator welded. The guy didn't want to even charge me (I paid anyway... that way he'll make time for me if the weld needs work). It's ugly, but hopefully it'll work. The crank was picked up today by James' buddy, and should be ready to pick up tomorrow!!

<rubbing hands together maniacally>"Soon.... soon...."</rubbing hands>

 

[Zapped]

FYI for the next radiator repair, send it to Mylers in Utah, www dot motorcycleradiators dot com. He does an awesome job and has very quick turn-a-round. Take time to goto his site and see some of his work!

 

[the_monk]

FYI for the next radiator repair, send it to Mylers in Utah, www dot motorcycleradiators dot com. He does an awesome job and has very quick turn-a-round. Take time to goto his site and see some of his work!

Thanks for the recommendation.

-- edit --

I just checked out his site. Them's some messed up radiators he has fixed!

 

[the_monk]

Here's an update. James' buddy Dane rebuilt the motor. He said he spent over an hour in the parts washer just on the power valve. It's amazing what it looks like now. I was a little nervous dropping my motor and all my parts off at some dude that I didn't know's house. Dane was the man. Anything that I don't want to do myself, I'll gladly ask him do it.

I went ahead and bought a low-mid VForce reed for it too. Since I've done the warm it up, let it cool thing a few times, I decided to ride it down to the construction site today. It's about 1.5 miles away. I took it easy the whole way, just cruising slowly in 2nd gear. I made it to the dirt, and HOLY CRAP!! That thing RIPS. It's NOTHING like it was before. It hits SO hard very near idle. I was making some very slow turns on some flat, hard packed dirt in 2nd gear. It took a small fan of the clutch and the bike was ripping. It seems to go on forever, too. About half way through the rpm range, it smooths out a bit and then slowly builds power to a slowly-falling-off top quarter of the RPMs.

The bike scared the poo out of me the first time I opened it up. I didn't have gloves on, and it came up so fast, that it actually tore some skin off my knuckles when the hand guards got my hands.

On Sunday we're headed out to Nocona. The boy is going to try out his slightly softer-hitting clutch in his KTM. Maybe next weekend I'll be headed out to Muenster. I'm a little nervous to ride in the tight stuff. I'll definately have to ride a gear higher now. :)

 

[tx246]

i had one of those ktm 50s they are most decidedly track oriented. we tried to use one on the trails and it was a disaster. the centrifugal clutch is engaged or not engaged. the on/off gas on the trail quickly heats up the clutch which leads to slipping. they are great on hardpack as the bike will coast between throttle inputs. they work well in deep dirt too as long as you are on the gas. just make sure he keeps the clutch engaged. dont let him get in the habit of on/off with the gas.

 

[the_monk]

we tried to use one on the trails and it was a disaster.
...
dont let him get in the habit of on/off with the gas.

He's just doing MX with it. We're in the market for a replacement trail bike (probably a klx110). To help with the blipping, I just put .630 washer stacks in the clutch. The hit is WAY softer now, and he's actually able to get into the gas earlier and stay in it longer. The blipping is almost gone. I'm assuming that what is left will be handled by the Two2Cool.

I can't imagine trying to ride one of those things on trails. My kiddo would be exhausted after about 15 minutes of tight stuff. I thought about getting an Adventure for a trail bike, but I prefer only one bike that has to be torn down after each ride.