Lowering my KDX

I have the same problem; I am 5'7 and have a b#*@h of a time getting the bike going again in woody trails. I found that replacing the seat cover with an aftermarket really helped. I replaced the seat cover with a Factory Effex one. When I installed it, I pulled it really tight so it became much narrower and feels a lot better.
Not to mention it looks great!
Suspension is difficult to adjust; I found decreasing rear spring tension to lower the bike made it unridable. I have since replaced the rear spring with a Race tech and found that because the spring is longer I can still have good high on the rear end, yet have a hard suspension setting.

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As for an answer, use Kouba adjustable links in the rear and drop the tubes in the clamps on the front. Also, while you have the seat cover off, use an electric knife (like the one your grandma slices Thanksgiving turkey with) and cut an inch or two off the top of the foam.

Do you have the front forks as high as you can get them? You can probably drop the front end about 1", depending on the bars and triple clamp. On the rear shock, you can raise your rear wheel off of the ground and raise the two big threaded pieces that put tension on the top of the shock spring (shock pre-load). That will lower the bike initially and really lower it when you put your weight on it. However, watch out because the bike will pull a wheelie everytime you get on the gas and it can be dangerous. With that in mind, raise the rear wheel, and make small adjustments. Then ride it and get on the gas and see how it reacts. Don't overdo it. With that being said, I bet you could probably drop the bike 1-3 inches (with your weight on the bike)

One last thought on my above message. The rear shock pre-load adjustment I mentioned is not a real good or safe thing to do if you do a lot of hill climbing or ride in hilly terrain. With the back end soft, the bike could flip over on you climbing a hill. If you do anything to soften the rear end, be especially aware of this climbing hills or deep ditches, etc. Be sure to get your weight up front and over the handlebars to keep the front end down (if you are on the gas trying to climb with a soft rear suspension).

As Peter noted above, loweing the rear by releasing tension is a bad idea. It causes very unstable characteristics, which is already a problem with an unmodified KDX suspension. I will once again suggest Kouba links, as they are exactly what you're looking for, and not terribly expensive.

http://www.koubalink.com/kdxinstall.html

Re: Kouba lowering.
Practically speaking only expect about an inch lower. Its important to lower the front the same amount as back is lowered. Cant lower the front much because fork tubes will hit handlebars and fender will hit tire when compressed. The minimal lowering of front is what limits the kouba.

Another option which hasnt been mentioned is to cut down the internals of the suspension. From what I can gather it will help cornering because lower center of grav. They can also match it to your weight at same time. Downside is lower ground clearance and possibly more difficult to sell. I have noticed that everyone who has done it is really happy with mod. So I say if you have around $500-600 then go for the radical mod and forget kouba or seat cut. Seat is already funky shaped anyway.

If you have a spare $500-$600, sell the KDX and get a used KTM. The seat height is already lower, with no sacrifice in clearance, comfort, or ease of movement. Used 99 250 EXCs can be had for as little as $2800.

If you choose the seat foam route but don't want to mess with the existing contour, you can cut the foam on the bottom.

One thing I don't see listed......deal with it! I'm 5'8" (if I've been in space for a couple of months). I DO have devol pull rods on my bike. More for the sake of improved shock action than lowering..but the bike is down about 3/8" or so.

Still, the best way to handle the situation is learn to ride better. Your feet aren't supposed to be down anyway. If you change the suspension to the point it's easy to reach, you'll likely develop that method as a crutch which will only obstruct your continued improvement as a rider.

re: 'lowering the rear by releasing tension is a bad idea'

Bad. Very, very bad! ;)

..real bad.

I have lowered my 99 220 an inch front and rear. The rear was done by a dealer suspension specialist who reduced the shock travel a quarter of an inch, which equates to an inch of travel due to the linkage. I think the Kouba links mentioned by others would be a cheaper, equally good way to go. The front was initially lowered by sliding the fork tubes up in the triple clamps, but this has drawbacks. One is that the tire will hit the fender on full compression. Another is that you cannot turn the handlebar clamps around to get a more forward position for the bars. After riding a friends 200 with the bars in the forward position, I liked it better, so I proceeded to shorten the travel of the forks. I did this by dissasembling the forks and installing a one-inch spacer on the shock rod below the top-out spring. I had a neighbor machine the spacer, but I also found one at a hardware store that was a bushing for something. It needs to have a 3/8 inch ID, and should have a wall thickness about equal to the top-out spring coil diameter. You also have to cut an inch off the spring spacers at the top so that you don't get too much preload. While I was in there I insalled a gold valve and slightly stiffer springs (I'm 5'6'' and weigh 155 lbs). The suspension works great, and in the woods where I ride, you don't need 11 inches of suspension, you need to be able to turn sharp and dab comfortably now and then.