lowering
- Thread starter luda42688
- Start date
jaguar
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You lower it by increasing the length of your rear suspension links (called tie rods) and raising the forks in the triple clamps.
I lowered mine 1+1/4 inch by increasing their length by 6mm. Now the rear tire just barely hits the fender when it bottoms and the fork angle is 2 degrees more (from 27 to 29) which is better for MXing which I want to do.
If you don't want it to change your fork angle then be sure not to forget to raise the fork tubes in the clamps.
I lowered mine 1+1/4 inch by increasing their length by 6mm. Now the rear tire just barely hits the fender when it bottoms and the fork angle is 2 degrees more (from 27 to 29) which is better for MXing which I want to do.
If you don't want it to change your fork angle then be sure not to forget to raise the fork tubes in the clamps.
Last edited:
jaguar
~SPONSOR~
You're absolutely right. I just forgot they are directly connected.
When are they going to step up into our modern age of complexity?
In that case then just lessen the shock spring preload and adjust the compression to be stiffer.
When are they going to step up into our modern age of complexity?
In that case then just lessen the shock spring preload and adjust the compression to be stiffer.
Luda, I'd take it to a pro and have it done right if I were you. It will mean internal modifications and probably a shorter spring. I am not familiar with PDS stuff myself so can't really help much. There's more to it than simply backing off the spring preload though, I'm afraid.
jaguar
~SPONSOR~
Well on my bike the shock body is threaded like a giant screw and the preload is adjustable by changing the vertical position of the spring stop rings which you do by turning them on the shock body.
Use a long screwdriver (with metal all the way through the handle), or other long metal thingie like a punch, and a hammer. Knock loose the outer stop ring by hitting on the extensions. Move it counterclockwise until its loose.
Then hit on and move the inner ring in a clockwise direction while the bike is on a stand. But before all that, measure the distance between the axle (or some point close by) and some point near the seat above it while the bikes on the ground, vertical, without any other weight on it (don't even press down on the seat while holding the bike upright). The measurement come first, then adjust the shock, then remeasure, then keep repeating until the final measurement is less than the first measurement by the amount you wanted to lower the rear end.
Use a long screwdriver (with metal all the way through the handle), or other long metal thingie like a punch, and a hammer. Knock loose the outer stop ring by hitting on the extensions. Move it counterclockwise until its loose.
Then hit on and move the inner ring in a clockwise direction while the bike is on a stand. But before all that, measure the distance between the axle (or some point close by) and some point near the seat above it while the bikes on the ground, vertical, without any other weight on it (don't even press down on the seat while holding the bike upright). The measurement come first, then adjust the shock, then remeasure, then keep repeating until the final measurement is less than the first measurement by the amount you wanted to lower the rear end.
marcusgunby
LIFETIME SPONSOR
- Jan 9, 2000
- 6,450
- 2
Jaguar the pds is totally different and the advice you are giving will not work, the collor on the pds has a allen key that holds it snug and will not turn (and will probably break if you turn it with a punch) also if you just lower it using lots of sag the shock spring will not bounce around when the wheel is in the air.
The pds is a hard shock to work on and needs a professional-to lower it you can use a internal spacer like on a normal shock.
The pds is a hard shock to work on and needs a professional-to lower it you can use a internal spacer like on a normal shock.
marcusgunby
LIFETIME SPONSOR
- Jan 9, 2000
- 6,450
- 2
Yes until late 97.
I've got a question. When you use a spacer on the shock to lower, I'm assuming it goes under the base plate, between it and the top out bumper, correct? Floating on the shaft? Or would you just make a new base plate all together that would extend further down the shaft. Either way, wouldn't you need to make a recess of some sort for the rebound bleed hole?
I hope I explained myself correctly.
I hope I explained myself correctly.
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