My new bike needs help?

What work needs to be done to the bike?

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A lot!

not a lot of good specific answers are going to be coming your way because You are basicly asking for someone to type out a service manual which is one of the first things you should have bought for the bike. Rebuilding an engine with that many problems is going to be expensive, with a lot of time involved and I doubt you are going to absorb the countless hours of experience needed to accomplish the jop in a simple reply.

Firs thing I suggest is that you buy yourself a manual, second thing I suggest is that you get yourself a part time job as floor sweeper or gas pump jockey at a bike dealership or gas station/ garage where you can trade your paycheck in for parts and labor. Then by keeping your eyes and ears open and mouth shut except for a few well placed questions hopefully you will see how much is involved and hopefull glean some experience.

I dont think it would be right to sell this as a runing, good bike. If you dont want to invest the money to fix it right, part it out on ebay.

If I remember correctly, the rod can move to about 3mm side to side maximum. The up and down is more critical. It should have zero movement. With that much damage to the top end, I would want to split the cases and check the bottom end thoroughly. For the amount of time and money you are going to put into the bike it would be foolish not to completely tear it down and inspect everything. If you deem it too much work, part it out or sell as a non-runner. I would also have a few unkind words for the person who sold you the bike in the first place.

Blanc - Check the mains bearings by gripping the flywheel and checking for any movement up or down.

There are a few things which should be assessed before you decide to fix it or break it for spares. A motor rebuild (new bottom end/main bearings) shouldn't be too expensive at a specialist rebuilders. Someone who knows the engines could do it pretty quickly and cost effectively. Cylinder replating should be around 100 quid. There must be plenty of 91/92 RM spares in UK breakers. Should be easy to find another head and clutch basket.

You need to weigh up the money spent on the motor with money needed on suspension and chassis parts ie fork/shock strip down and service, swingarm and linkage bearings, steering head bearings/races (on the plus side just about any used bike needs these things).

Early nineties RM125's were good handling bikes, not overly powerful. Spares should be plentiful. Depending on what you use it for maybe you could go for a big bore cylinder conversion. You won't get your money back on the bike but at least you will have a bike that is completely sorted and set up to your preference & you'll know it inside out. It's a tricky call. Ten year old plus 125's tend to bottom out at 700-800 quid and stay at that price if in good order.

The other option would be to sell it and put the extra money you'll need to spend on it towards a recently rebuilt one.

A guy sold me a '98 KX60 that was much older and I sued him in small claims court after he told me "too bad". I got $700 and it was no trouble at all. I had made him sign the bill-of-sale that stated it was a '98 and that was the proof that I needed.

Do you have anything like that?

And he got a lawyer so it felt extra good to beat him. And it was much more civilized that waiting outside his backdoor with a baseball bat. Which is what I felt like doing!

Mark

My clutch does the same thing yours does. I am new to dirt bikes so let me know what you did to fix yours. Thanks...

I have a 2003 rm 125 and my clutch slips and it is adjusted properly. My freind has a 2000 rm 125 and his clutch slips and is adjusted properly. A guy I know (pro rider) has a 2002 rm250 and the clutch slips. My dad owns an old RV90(suzuki) and the clutch slips....to me it sounds like a suzuki thing. I just got used to it, but then again mine does not slip to the point that I need to use brakes to stop with the clutch engadged

^^ A little gripping is very common, but you shouldn't be able to ride around with the clutch pulled in.