Brandon H.
Member
- Mar 26, 2009
- 199
- 0
Hey... I know every bolt has been metric, but you know.... you gotta be sure :)IndyMX said:Well, it's a Jap bike, and since every other fastener on the bike is metric, it would stand to reason that this one is metric also.
Sometimes a little bit of common sense goes a long way. :nener:
Yeah yeah yeah.... I looked it up after you said this, except the manual was for a 2001. According to it, its 10mm x 1.25 just like I thought. So hopefully I can use a die to restore the threads, cause it looks like some jacka$$ took plyers the the threads. Might have to go a size smaller if it don't work.IndyMX said:Factory Service Manual is your friend.. ;)
The problem is though, is that the threads are on the crankshaft, so I need it repaired. The only replacement I need is a nut and washer.GoldDrum said:If you have a hardware store near they would be the cheapest place for a bold. Lowes may have it, but I have found that a HW store has much more in stock. Bike Bandit is good, but a long way from the cheapest.
IndyMX said:If the threads are just bugged a little, chasing them with a die will do the job just fine.
The flywheel is held in place by the key, not the nut.. The nut does hold tension on it, but as long as it's tight, everything will be fine.
I'm never shocked by some of the crap people do to their bikes.
Where's them old guys when u need em :laugh:IndyMX said:Good question what the next option would be.. Bob?? Rich??
IndyMX said:If the threads are just bugged a little, chasing them with a die will do the job just fine.
The flywheel is held in place by the key, not the nut.. The nut does hold tension on it, but as long as it's tight, everything will be fine.
I'm never shocked by some of the crap people do to their bikes.
whenfoxforks-ruled said:If the crank has the plastic fillers in it, they go as a first sign of the big end bearing going out. I would have concern why the 1 main bearing stuck to the crank, the case bore should have held it. Unless,, you did not drive against any inner bearing races to disassemble did you? Check the bore that bearing came out of, and use some loctite bearing seal, if its still good. Replace the main bearings and seal for sure at this point. Check the thrust washer clearance on the big end bearing, inspect the cage and pins with a magnifier. Or for peace of mind, and a known sound engine, get the crank fixed/replaced. Vintage Bob
whenfoxforks-ruled said:If the crank has the plastic fillers in it, they go as a first sign of the big end bearing going out.
So true, I've had that crank on the shelf for 10 years. When it went I was lucky enough to have a new OEM crank to throw in. The stuffers make a rebuild more costly since you have to change them as well as the bearing.
I would have concern why the 1 main bearing stuck to the crank, the case bore should have held it.
I've seen a few YZ125's have that side main bearing stick to the crank upon removal. Never seemed to be a big deal but that's just me. Checking the bore size is mandatory and using locktite bearing seal is ok.
I have the blue and red, but I thought I had to use a "bearing" loctite like yall are saying. Can I get away with red?whenfoxforks-ruled said:The blue is basic. The red loctite is proper, the green is meaner. Vintage Bob
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