Oil Drain bolt?

[88KDX]

Hi, I've always been real careful not to cross-thread the oil drain bolt when installing it after changing the oil. But today when I installed it, instead of snugging up it just spun. When I took it out (needed to pull down and turn it with vice grip till it caught the treads) it seems the inner threads are falling apart. Does this sometimes happen with older bikes. It's a 1988 KDX 200.
Is there a drill and tap to fix this?
Thanks.

 

[88KDX]

It seems like the upper treads are messed up but the lower treads are fine so I put on some extra washers and it tightened up nice. Now I'd like to flush out the oil. I usually use Mobil 1. Can I use regular oil to flush it and then use Mobil 1 again.
Thanks

 

[wibby]

How about using a rubber expansion plug?
Seems like that would be better than tapping in new threads, since you probably don't want any aluminum debris floating around in your tranny
I'm sure someone will chime in if I'm wrong

 

[Trick24]

If washers fixed the problem it should be just the bolt not the casing. My advice is to order a new one and keep riding as long as it doesn't leak. Just be tender in the future, be careful not to tighten it with too much torque or the case will get damaged too, and then you'll have big worries. This is common on older bikes and a pain to deal with too! Cross threading may not have done this but over tightning the bolt. If the bolt starts straight and snug untill the end then the bolt is just worn.

 

[88KDX]

Thanks guys, The weird thing is the bolt threads look fine, I'm going to get one of the magnetic bolts just in case and where can I get the Rubber expansion plug?

 

[Twiztid One]

you can get them at your local auto parts store .

 

[88KDX]

Welp, unfortunately it is the threads inside the case because the bolt threads are fine and when I put extra washers on the bolt it won't tighten up enough to keep the oil from dripping. I will have to try the rubber expansion plug. And I finally got it jetted perfect and running better then ever. Any more advice on the rubber expansion plug.
Thanks for your help.
Dan

 

[motox]

my 92 had same thing. easy fix is a heli coil. only thing is be carefull when you break the little bent peice off. Try not to let it fall in tranny. Mine did but probably came out during oil change. I tried the rubber expansion thing, it didn't work. go for the heli coil.

 

[KDXFreestyle]

whats a heli coil? is there a website?

 

[s.d.duner]

has anyone here used a magnetic plug?

was there actually metal debris stuck to it?
i was thinking about getting one, especially if someone has had it recover debris.

 

[cicone]

I use a magnetic drain plug and it always comes out with a silver sheen on the end of it---probably normal wear. At least there are no big hunks of metal stuck to it! :)

 

[motox]

a heli coil is a small spring like thing that goes in the stripped hole. It then becomes the thread. You can get them at any auto parts store.

 

[Al Bouman]

Do the heli coil. My '88 had the same issue last year. Nothing worked 100% until I installed the heli coil.

 

[JasonWho]

---

 

[Trick24]

Don't know if you were serious or not about what a heli coil is, I am not sure how the rubber plug works but this is what I know about heli-coils...A heli coil replaces the "threads" where regular Tap & Die methods don't work. You use a tool and insert a spring looking object that acts as threads. I am not sure where or how much a kit costs but you can do it yourself or most automotive/machine shops should be able to do this. It is pretty much a permanent fix and can be drilled out and redone when and if necessary. If you do it your self you need to match the size and threads of the bolt to the proper helicoil.

Good Luck!

 

[mxer842]

can someone go through the heli coil process, step by step?...i think i am going to have to do one on my 250f

thanks

 

[Michelle]

To put in a helicoil you first get the right kit, an engineering supply store is probably your best bet. To make sure you get the right kit it would probably pay to take the bolt along. When you buy the kit buy the recommended drill as well if you haven't already got it. Then drill out the old thread, tap the hole with the tap from the kit, wind in the helicoil and snap off the tang at the bottom.
If everything goes pear shaped later on it is sometimes possible to pick the helicoil out but drilling it isn't an option as it is effectively a stainless steel spring wound into the hole. So it's probably a good idea to be careful when tightening up the bolt in future. Having said that a helicoiled thread will be stronger than the original thread that was cut into ali.

Haven't run a magnetic plug in a KDX but I do have them on both my 360sx and TM250. They pick up a lot of small junk that comes from normal wear and tear. If you find a source let me know and I'll throw one at Michelles KDX. They are definitely worthwhile in my book.

Henk
(Michelles husband)

 

[cicone]

bump

did you ever get the drainbolt problem fixed? have you made it to Florida yet??

 

[88KDX]

I was actually in Florida last week checking out suburbs around Orlando. It's more expensive then I thought so I have to save some more dough and I'm also waiting and hoping to be laid off from work because I will get a large severence package and unemployment.
My Father lives outside Tampa so I stay there. It's a big move I've been trying to do for like 3 years now. Thanks for asking.
I will work on the drain bolt problem this weekend. For a temparary fix a might try silicon on the bolt washer to see if it stops the oil drip so I can get a ride in this weekend.

 

[cicone]

88kdx----try this. My drain bolt leaked---seems there's an uneven surface on the bottom of the crankcase that won't allow the bolt to be installed all the way in---it catches one side of the head. I wrap three or four turns of teflon tape around the threads covering from the bolt head to half the length of the bolt. Hand tighten and then just a touch with a wrench. Hasn't leaked since. :thumb: Let me know when you get down here---glad to show you around!

 

[88KDX]

Thanks Cicone, I will give that a shot this weekend. And I'm looking forward to riding in Florida year round, I'll let you know when I get down there.

 

[canyncarvr]

A magnet isn't going to help retrieve broken thread case pieces. Well, unless you use an aluminum magnet. ;)

In most instances the case is damaged due to overtightening. But...I've seen aluminum threads come out en toto on bolts. That generally due to dissimilar metal characteristics.

Helicoils are tough. Like michelle said..they're stainless. BUT...only as tough as the metal they are threaded into, 'eh? A bit of an aluminum flange isn't going to hold the helicoil insert a whole lot better than it held the bolt in the first place.

They make (any aftermarket auto store) self tapping drain bolts for newer aluminum automobile pans (tranny and engine oil). After use of such a piece, run some oil thru the trans (pour it in the top, drain it out the bottom...don't 'RUN' the thing) to flush out the leftovers.

I'm not disagreeing with the use of a helicoil. Just advising caution in the use of such a piece. The removal of that tang on the bottom of the insert you used to thread the thing IN in the first place can be more of a pain than you might think. You can ruin the whole insert in the process. ESPECIALLY seeing as the aforementioned flange/boss is: 1. Puny, and 2. Aluminum.

Good luck.

You could always just replace the oil pan.

Oh..that was my 700SC. Sorry.

 

[88KDX]

Good idea C.C., if the teflon tape and silicon don't stop the drip I will try the self tapping bolt before Heli-coil.
Thanks

 

[BRYDEN1]

I have made many such repairs on critical components. I will offer a warning though. If you don't get the damaged hole drilled and tapped perfecty straight it will still leak.

When you drill and tap the hole coat the drill and tap flutes in grease to catch cuttings. Drill and tap slowly, removing to clean and regreases often.

When it comes time to thread in the insert you will most likely have to shorten it slightly. You can use a dremel tool to carefully cut off the required number of coils from the end opposite of the installation tab. When the installation of the insert is done you need both ends of the insert engaged in the threads of the damaged component. If the tab end extends beyond the threads on the inside you run the risk of deforming and ruining the insert. To break off the tab reach into the insert with tiny needle nose pliers and grip the tab hard. Give the plier handle a sharp tap with a hammer and gently work the tap back and forth until it breaks. If you need to shorten the coil on the outside after installation you can nick the coil with the dremel and remove it in roughly the same way. Make sure both ends of the installed insert are captured within the threads of the damaged component.

Take your time to do it right the first time. If you need to buy an extra box of inserts and practice on a piece of scrap aluminum, DO IT!!!. It is much easier to do it right the first time, and a drain plug on a crank case is no place to practice.

The process may seem complex but with a little practice it is anything but.

I buy my inserts bulk but you can usually find complete helicoil kits at any major auto parts supplier for a reasonable price.

Good luck :thumb: