OK, I think this is the place to say HELP!!!!

[Masu]

I got the PWK 35 mm Japan spec carb installed on my Japan spec KDX 220 SR, it was a shoe horn job, but it fit.

Mods to the bike.

Air box top cut away.
RSV silencer (after market Japanese stuff)
Stock air filter (waiting for the Twin Air)

That is it.

I cannot get it to run!

On the old 28 mm carb it started with one or two kicks, everytime.

Now I've kicked and kicked and kicked, and it coughed a few times, but never caught.

The carb has a

#135 main jet
#48 slow jet
R2072J needle with the clip in the 3rd cip position (the middle)

Now here is where I'm really needing help.
I bought the carb used, (great deal) and I took it apart and cleaned it, it is now really clean. I need to know the settings for the two screws on the side of the carb, one is a brass screw, I figure it is an air/fuel mixture screw, I have it at 1 1/2 turns out from closed. The other is an idle screw I think, it is a nylon screw with a spring on it, this is more difficult to set.

I have it about the middle of it's travel.

So all of you guys with this carb, or some helpful hints, please HELP!

Cheers!

 

[needa250]

turn the idle in a few turns in and try starting it.

 

[needa250]

new plug also just in case.

 

[ride_red_15]

set a higher idle, check your plug, and make sure the plug cap is on (my one thing i always forget)

 

[Masu]

Yes guys I've done all of that, IK put the stock carb back on the bike, and it runs no problem, I thought I would warm it up and try swaping the carbs again.

I havew tried all of the "Idle and air mix" screws untill I'm blue i the face.

What about float level? What should that be set at?

Cheers!

Still kicking!

 

[agitt73]

your jetting is way off

 

[Masu]

I figured as much.

Do you have any suggestions?

I have the bike running, Hurrah!

It was the idle screw that was not in enough. O took the carb out and I could see that the idle screw only moves the slide up on the last 3 turns of the 12 or so turns that is has. I put it at about 1 1/2. Started right away.

I have the air/fuel screw at about 1/4 turn, and the needle on the leanest (very top) clip.

Of idle it runs OK, when you go to WOT in bogs just a very little bit.

With the air/fuel screw at about 1 1/2 and the cip on the needle in the very middle it bogs so bad off idle to WOT that the bike dies, if you feed it slowly it revs up OK, but from idle to WOT it bogs.

I guess I got to go hunt some specs on needles mains and slow speed jets.

Any suggestions are welcome!

Cheers!

With the

 

[maicomotoman]

I think that your pilot is too rich. I would try a couple of sizes smaller. 42? Just a guess...

 

[Masu]

Thanks Everyone!!!

Well, I got the new jets and the FMF Rev pipe too, now all I need is the Twin Air filter, and the R2072J needle, both of which are on order.

I put the #155 main with the #42 pilot jets in, set the air/fuel mix screw at 1 1/2 turn, and it started first kick, cold without the choke!

Once it warmed up I set about to tune it a bit, I ended up setting the air/fuel mix screw at about 1 1/4, and the idle smoothed out so nice!

The rev pipe is totally trick, great sound too :)

I have yet to really hoon it on the bike, as I am waiting my registration to get processed, I'm in the middle of Tokyo, so the first hoon will be on-road, but that way I can work out some of the kinks, I think.

Seems to run great, starts easy runs well. The next mod is some Boyesen reeds, and then the tires, What tires would you recomend for about 80% off-road and 20% on-road?

I've heard good things about the Michielns MT 21's, what do you guys think?

Cheers!

 

[David Trustrum]

I’m thinking a second set of wheels from whoever sold you the cheap carb?? That way you get sticky road rubber & not so scary in the rain & it sounds like you have transport to the dirt so slap on the knobblies before you transport the bike to keep them nice & sharp. Or maybe you don’t.

The ports are a little different on the SR compared to export model if you decide to look for more power.

 

[Masu]

Thanks for the info.

I don't have transport to the dirt, I have to ride about one hour to get off-road, and most of that is 100 km/h toll highway. (you guys who have mountains in your back yard, go outside right now, take a look and APPRECIATE it please!!) :)

I plan on getting a rear wheel soon, found a whole set up, ready to bolt on for about $80, should get tit this week. I was thinking some Dunlop 604's, trail max I think they are called, they are supposed to be the intermediate step between dirt and a full on Motard set up. Nice and easy too, just bolt them on, just swap brake pads.

I will start with the MT-21's or maybe the Dunlop 605's. The tires on the bike now are crap, I think the guy threw some garbage tires on it before he sold it.

Cheers!

 

[kmx125r]

Dunlop 605 tires

Hello Masu,

I run Dunlop 605 dual sport tires on both my KMX125R and my KDX250SR. Both my bikes are street legal and I need to ride them 40-50 minutes to get off-road... I also use the bikes to run errands around town - beats using the car.

I had a pair of Bridgestone knobbies on the KDX but the street ride worn them out very quickly. My KMX125R came from the Kawasaki dealer with the 605s on it (stock 2.75X21 front and 4.10X18 rear) so I decided to try them on my KDX. But I did go with bigger tires for the KDX and you might do the same - I got the 3.00X21 front and the 4.60X18 rear. They work well on and off road.

Obviously, they are not as aggressive as a full-on knobby, but I'm very happy with the off road performance - and going 100kph with a full set of knobs on the road is certainly NO picnic - especially in Manila traffic! I like the sticky grip the 605s give me on the road.

Give them a try - I think you'll like them. I paid about $100US for the two tires.