Older kx500 tips -n- tricks

[EZ-Rider]

I'm getting a 90 kx 500 this weekened and the bike seems to really be in great shape, but what things do I need to look out for. It has a FMF pipe and silencer, and boyesen reeds. I mainly ride woods so bottom end is a priority, is the FMF decent in the woods? What gearing are people running on these things in the woods? It's 14/47 now, but I have 50, 51, 52 tooth rear sprockets I could put on. Has anyone ever ran a larger rear sprocket on their 500? Did it help in the tight stuff or was the wheelspin to much?
Also I've heard that raisinng the forks helps the turning, is there anything else you can do to help. Any tips you have let me know I want to set it up as a reliable, manueverable, all purpose bike.

 

[mhardee]

Originally posted by EZ-Rider
What gearing are people running on these things in the woods? It's 14/47 now, but I have 50, 51, 52 tooth rear sprockets I could put on. Has anyone ever ran a larger rear sprocket on their 500? Did it help in the tight stuff or was the wheelspin to much? 

I'm running the 14/49 and am fixing to try the 14/50.. I have stock tires on it now (and it it gen-yo-ine junk) and am fixing to mount a Dunlop 739 on the rear.

The 14/47 was WAY too tall for any tight riding..

 

[Jones]

Get a flywheel weight, they make a huge difference in the tight stuff. I also learned the hard way to put a water pump guard from devol on . . .you dont want to be in the position I was when your boot starts getting steam cleaned with your foot inside . . .

 

[Camstyn]

I would recommend doing a search, there has been a lot of great info shared in this forum regarding the KX500's.

 

[EZ-Rider]

Originally posted by Cam Mitchell
I would recommend doing a search, there has been a lot of great info shared in this forum regarding the KX500's.

I did do a search, I tried to find a thread that I read a year or so ago that went over the places in the frame to strengthen, bolts to check often, woods gearing etc. I was unable to find it though so I figured it must be deleted or I was imagining it :confused:, so I posted the question.

 

[NVR FNSH]

try www.pitbull-racing.com Personally, I hate the D739 tires for the terrain I ride - NorCal. D756s work much better for me.

If you need new seat foam let me know, I have an extra Ceet tall foam for my '90 KX500.

Brian

 

[Camstyn]

Ok, here's the problems i encountered after owning a '94 KX500 for three years:

-chain eats subframe. get a longer bolt and use it tobolt subframe to outside of mounting tab and fill the inside gap with washers.

-frame tab broke on rear brake pedal. Weld some extra material on behind it.

-upper pipe mount breaks on frame. Weld on some extra material.

-replace pipe o-rings, gasket and springs every two or three rides.

-long OEM silencer is damage prone, mine cartwheeled and the protruding silencer got bent, pulling the subframe with it into the rear wheel. Aftermarket ones are a bit better but not much. You can cut down your OEM one to a more reasonable length.

-check ALL bolts every ride. Loctite helps, but this bike vibrates a lot and loses bolts.

-will ping on pump gas unless you get the head modified. Kawasaki offers a thicker head gasket helps but it's really a band-aid fix. The thicker head gasket takes a bit of bottom end power and moves it to high RPM. I went from 14/47 gearing to 15/51 to compensate.

-footpeg springs last for about 6 rides. Buy a bunch of em at once, sloppy footpegs contribute to making the bike feel clapped out.

-footpeg mounts are weak. You can buy stronger ones from Zip-Ty Racing or Pro Circuit.

-vibration will put your arms to sleep on a long ride. Get oversized bars and fill them with silicon, you'll be amazed at how well this works.

-the stock seat foam has a big hole that you slide into.. A tall seat foam is flat from front to back. If this is too tall for you, you can shave it so that there is "less" of a pocket on the seat.

-airbox vents don't seem to make a difference if they are open or closed. I left mine closed to keep water out.

-clutch cable can be routed straighter for easier clutch pull. Keep it on the left side of the frame instead of going past the throttle-side radiator.

-brakes are pathetic.. I'm not sure if oversized rotors are available for your year of bike but it sure helped with mine. Keep the brake fluid changed every few rides. You'll be amazed at how fast the rear brake fluid gets dirty.

-kickstarters break. Apparently they were beefed up in recent years, try to get one for a 2000 or newer when yours break. I had a welder make me a steel one after breaking three stockers.

-get your suspension dialed in as best as you can. I ended up going with stiffer springs and a revalve. You need every advantage you can get to make a 500 handle better.

That's all I can think of, I'll add more if I remember anything else.

 

[Rider 007]

Loctite, lots of it.
I believe we ran the R1368N needle along with a leaner pilot. Huge difference.
You can attach a piece of aluminum angle to the subframe to keep the chain from sawing through it.
I cut the clutch arm and welded a 10mm extension onto it. A Terminator cable with a Honda CR perch and lever do wonders for it.

 

[Studboy]

Nice writeup Cam...now if I only had a 500 to try all this stuff out on :p .

 

[EZ-Rider]

Thanks alot for posting that Cam, it gives me a good foundation on maintaining and prepping this thing. Since the weather sux for riding right now I have some time to do the the things that you mentioned that weren't already done. THANKS AGAIN :thumb:

 

[NVR FNSH]

Regarding the extended clutch arm:
How are you getting enough slack in the cable for proper adjustment? My clutch arm is extended and I can't get any play at the lever with a new Terminator cable.

Brian

 

[Rider 007]

I don't recall having any problems with play, but again we were using a CR perch and lever. This is going to sound stupid, but is the inline adjuster on the cable screwed all the way in to be as loose as possible (not the perch adjuster)?

 

[NVR FNSH]

I'm using a Works Connection perch - CR style. And the inline adjuster is as short as possible. I'll probably remove the locknut from the perch adjuster and see if that will give me any free play.

Brian

 

[Rider 007]

Perhaps it's due to a difference in the amount it was lengthened. I believe ours was 10mm (approx. 3/8").