OMG I'm about to chainsaw my dirt bike into 20pieces

nick545 · Mar 18, 2006

I"M AN IDIOT!!!!!!!!

I just finished cleaning my bike last week. I put the engine back in. Then I put new transmission oil in and it started leaking so I tighted the bolt... and tighted it... and tighted it and... snap it broke. So I go OH S%&T and get madd. In order to get to all the bolts to take the transsmission cover off I had to remove the brake pedal. I did that. I take the cover off. And looked at my problem. the broken bolt is not sticking out nor is it below its even at the "end". I tried two days to take it out no luck. I buy a gasket for the transmission cover so that I had two and I put the cover back on hoping it that nothing will leak even with the broken bolt. And I put the brake back on tightening it and I guess their was dirt on the threads or something cause I was tightening it, it was hard to get in..... and again SNAP. I screamed and waited to cool off... I look at the transmission and it's leaking again so that stupid idea didn't work. (I guess I diserve all this s%&t for not getting the bolt out on the first time and trying a stupid idea) So I wait a few days and buy a screw extractor.... the bits brake.... words can't describe how mad I am. I can't take it to a dealer or shop because I don't have the money. I want to go riding soooo badly! Please help :bang:

rosscopeeko · Mar 18, 2006

I've been there before only it was on my old toyota 4x4 when i broke off one of the waterpump bolts in the block. I bought an "easy-out" which is a little bit looking thing that has reverse threads on it which bite in when you turn in counter clockwise. I needed to drill a hole in the old bolt, then lightly tap the easy out in and crank away. Only thing was i broke a drill bit off inside of of the bolt and that was a major problem. Had to buy a special bit to get the drill bit out and it was pricey.

It's not that big of deal. You'll just need time and patience. You can also use a thing called a helicoil. You'll definitely need to drill pilot holes in the broken bolts. Depending on the damage you do while removing the broken bolts, you might need to retap the threads. I would call your local automotive store and ask if they have a tool to help you out. Keep workign, stay calm, and you'll be riding again soon.

bordrshane · Mar 18, 2006

the chain on the chainsaw will wear out super fast. I would recomend a cutting torch to "cut your bike up".

Masterphil · Mar 18, 2006

I'd use a plasma cutter, those things are SAWEET!

Badgadjit1 · Mar 18, 2006

hahahaha....your not helping him out lol....jaws of life (if you can get your hands on some)

no...hela coil should work if you have to get to that point.

windsormw · Mar 18, 2006

agreed .......

helicoil wuill get u out of that jam ...........however

the "boss" that the threaded hole is in must be dilled out with special care . I mean the hole must be drilled out exacatly 90 degrees . I would not recommend using a hand drill for that job ( unless ur that good with a hand drill ) ........A milling machine or good solid drill press wouild be ideal . Center puch it as best u can and hope for the best ......machine SHOp will do it but that cost $

helicoil kits are pretty much self expanitory

good luck

AssistSuper · Mar 18, 2006

I've used the EZ-out extracter before.

I hate snapping bolts. But the EZ-out does a good job. Just be patient and take your time and you'll get it out.

nick545 · Mar 18, 2006

easy outs didn't work.... I snapped them too.. thanks for the suggestions so far

windsormw · Mar 18, 2006

I have 2 ..........

ez-outs are the way to go ........buy good one's ( not carbon steel)

but if all else fails helicoil is the way to go

nick545 · Mar 18, 2006

my bolts have to be really stuck because the ez-outs brake like twigs it doesn't even affect the bolts at all

Badgadjit1 · Mar 19, 2006

one time i stuck bolt and broke it. I started with a tiny drill bit, and just worked my way up with bigger drill bits. Its easier to get through with smaller bits. and instead of trying to get it (hole in one) style with the big drill bit. Take your time. Just a thought

and get some engine sealant, gasket maker stuff for your case halves, and a torque wrench.

84cr125flyer · Mar 19, 2006

One suggestion, if you can get a hold of them, are to use a square ezy-out. The reason is, a standard ezy-out has a helix to help it bite into the bolt causing the bolt to expand in the housing and bind up, making it virtually impossible to remove. A square ezy-out is tapered and has a groove cut into the biting edge. I've used both in my line of work and found it depends on the situation when to use either one; helical for thick walled bolts and square for thin wall. The price should be about the same and you're local tool supplier should have them on hand.

nick545 · Mar 19, 2006

Badgadjit1 said:
one time i stuck bolt and broke it. I started with a tiny drill bit, and just worked my way up with bigger drill bits. Its easier to get through with smaller bits. and instead of trying to get it (hole in one) style with the big drill bit. Take your time. Just a thought

and get some engine sealant, gasket maker stuff for your case halves, and a torque wrench.

What do I do when I used the the biggest bit that I can? put new threads?

Badgadjit1 · Mar 19, 2006

ya you'll have to tap it. just gotta try and keep the hole as much in the center as possible.

84cr125flyer · Mar 19, 2006

If you need to drill ad tap it, make sure you have enough edge distance from the center of the hole, which is 2T or 2 X Dia of hole, however, there are cases when you will have less than that. If this is the case, ensure you have enough edge distance, the hole is parallel to center line, to keep the tap from cutting through the edge. You'll see little hash marks as the tap cuts through the edge if you don't have enough wall thickness. One question, did you completely drill out the bolt and parent metal or were you able to remove the bolt without removing any parent metal. You might be able to pick out the remainder of the bolt with a sharp tool, such as a scribe. So, if you didn't remove any parent metal you won't need to install an insert, such as a heli-coil (trade name), but if you need to install an insert, I suggest using a kit by recoil. I got mine from Travers Tool (www.travers.com) for a very reasonable price and have used it to repair parts as they have worn out. It's top quality and the insertion tool can be adjusted to ensure you install the insert at just the right depth, hope this helps.

nick545 · Mar 19, 2006

I didn't drill it yet.. I drilled it a little bit for the ez-out but other than that its not drilled. thanks for the tips. I might take it to my friends shop on Tuesday.

84cr125flyer · Mar 19, 2006

As you drill out the rest of the bolt be very careful. Since steel is harder than aluminum if you get slightly off center stop what you're doing and use a small pencil grinder bit, cone shaped or 1/8" ball rotary file. You can use that to slowly grind out the larger portion of the bolt and then collapse what's left. You should be able to remove the bits and pieces of what's left over. If I've read the threads correctly the bolt didn't bind up it just sheared off, but you might have shanked the bolt off into the hole in essence torqing it in place. The biggest word of advice I can say is "patience." Take your time, if you become frustrated, take a break and re-attack later. I can't tell you how much stuff I've worked on that's been trashed from the lack of patience; some by my own hand.

nick545 · Mar 19, 2006

Ok thanks you've been a BIG help.

mobrown · Mar 20, 2006

Great idea..

nick545 said:
I didn't drill it yet.. I drilled it a little bit for the ez-out but other than that its not drilled. thanks for the tips. I might take it to my friends shop on Tuesday.

If you can have someone who either has a machine shop or a lot of tools to help you that is the way to go. The material may need to be heated and cooled repeatedly to reduce the friction between the dissimilar metals (case is aluminum, screws are steel). It just takes patience but you will get it out!

Keep us updated.

I live in Delaware where do you live in Jersey and where do you ride?

Ol'89r · Mar 20, 2006

nick545 said:
I didn't drill it yet.. I drilled it a little bit for the ez-out but other than that its not drilled. thanks for the tips. I might take it to my friends shop on Tuesday.

Nick.

Take it to a tig welder. Most good tig welders can apply a bead to the end of the screw and build it up until the bead is outside of the gasket surface. Then drop a nut over the bead and weld the nut to the bead. Take a wrench on the nut and unscrew the broken screw. The welding process also heats and expands the case around the screw making it easier to remove it. I've done this myself many, many times with much success.

If the screw has broken drill bits and ez-outs in it, then it can't be drilled since the ez-out and drill bit are hardened. Even a rotary file will wear out quickly if used against a hardened ez-out. If this is the case, try to find a company that has a EDM, (Electronic Discharge Machine). An EDM can disintegrate the screw without damaging the aluminum threads.

If all else fails, break out the aluminum around the screw, remove the screw and have a tig welder build the screw boss back up to the original size, drill it and tap it and resurface the gasket surface. :cool:

Just my $ .02

Ol'89r

mifun3 · Mar 20, 2006

I second what Nick said about welding a nut!!!

nick545 · Mar 20, 2006

mobrown said:
If you can have someone who either has a machine shop or a lot of tools to help you that is the way to go. The material may need to be heated and cooled repeatedly to reduce the friction between the dissimilar metals (case is aluminum, screws are steel). It just takes patience but you will get it out!

Keep us updated.

I live in Delaware where do you live in Jersey and where do you ride?

I live in Central Jersey. I usually go riding on my friends' properties. But when I want to go to the track I go to Raceway Park in Englishtown, NJ>> http://www.racewaypark.com (20 minutes away from my home)
and a little bit further away from me is New Jersey Off Road Vehicle Park, Inc. It has both trails and tracks>> http://www.njorvp.org/ (an hour away from where I live)
Both are great places

Thanks every one for the great tips I might bring it to my friends shop this week if I can get a hold of him.

AsheyYz250 · Mar 22, 2006

if u said that they are sticking out....you can go to a parts store and ask for a stud extracter it fits on the end of a ratchet and you wont break that sucker....also if u can get at them you can weld a T handle or another bolt on and they will come right out...be sure that u just do some quick tack welds though..

OMG I'm about to chainsaw my dirt bike into 20pieces

nick545

rosscopeeko

bordrshane

Masterphil

DRN's Resident Lunatic

Badgadjit1

windsormw

AssistSuper

nick545

windsormw

nick545

Badgadjit1

84cr125flyer

nick545

Badgadjit1

84cr125flyer

nick545

84cr125flyer

nick545

mobrown

Ol'89r

mifun3

nick545

AsheyYz250

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