I checked the dates on these posts. They are almost 3 yrs old now. I think shortly after I posted that I began my own search. That is when I learned the M1 ATF was actually comparable to a 15wt. Damn, that seems so long ago, and I've learned so much since then. I guess we all gotta start somewhere. I remember in early 02 I had that one fluid blend that was a total failure. Some synthetics you just can't blend together. :)
Problems w/ Mobil Synthetic ATF?
- Thread starter CR Swade
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DEANSFASTWAY
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- May 16, 2002
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Its good stuff.
I believe he was cutting it with 40% (or 30%) Mobil Velocite No. 6. You can get it from Grainger or a oil supply place that carries Mobil products. I still use this formula at 50/50 because it comes out clean after long periods between servicing and the suspenders don't perform any worse.
John
John
CR Swade
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- Jan 18, 2001
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I had forgotten all about this post. The seals quit leaking after we did a little more cleaning on them (tape). The only thing I could figure was the ATF actually started the cleaning process for us. I still liked using the stuff as it stayed so clean.
frankrock363
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- Jan 21, 2004
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I have a supplier that carries Valvoline synthetic ATF. Any thoughts on it or we just talking Mobil 1 here.
if i remember correctly from my days in auto mechanics school synthetic oils have smaller molecules and are slicker than conventional oils and will find the way through old gaskets. how old are the seals, maybe install some fresh ones and see what happens. i started using mobil1 motor oil in one of my cars engines that had very high miles and new oild leaks started showning up.
I use type F ATF in my clutch, 2cycle motors, forks.
I agree that a synthetic will last longer. But with the need to change out the fork fluid far faster than what the fluid will withstand, I use the type F to keep my stuff consolidated. I am of firm belief that we need to change out our fork fluid long before the fluid starts to yield, simply to remove the tubes of particulate.
I have stated this before, but I do find big differences in various brands of ATF. Castrol type F, for example, smells like it has been oxidizing for about a year as soon as you open the bottle. I won't use it.
I agree that a synthetic will last longer. But with the need to change out the fork fluid far faster than what the fluid will withstand, I use the type F to keep my stuff consolidated. I am of firm belief that we need to change out our fork fluid long before the fluid starts to yield, simply to remove the tubes of particulate.
I have stated this before, but I do find big differences in various brands of ATF. Castrol type F, for example, smells like it has been oxidizing for about a year as soon as you open the bottle. I won't use it.
DEANSFASTWAY
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autozones got the Mobil 1
I know this is a post about using ATF, but what about mobil 1 10w-30 (green cap) in my front forks. How much heavier is it compared to the ATF? I have no idea what the old oil was, probably original as it was very dirty and worn out. The bike is an 89 KDX 200. Thanks.
Ive been running the M1 ATF in my fork for quite a while . Ive noticed that heavier oils "cling" to the fork tube harder and the seals dont seem to wipe them 100% clean. But that said, stiction is almost zero. I believe the heavier oil lubes the seals better and allows them to slide on the tubes with less friction killing the stiction.
I experimented with some very different oils in the outer chambers (showa on an 03 CRF). At one point I was running 0-20 wt M1 engine oil. I can honestly say, zero sticktion. None. The seals left a smeary look. The fork tubes didnt attract dirt, but they werent dry either. The motor oil did come out dirty though after a relatively short period (10 hours of moto/practice/trail) Since going to the ATF, Ive notice how much cleaner things come apart also. Even after flushing the fork itself, that stuff is still clean too. Amazing. Prior to my experiment and really the cause of my experimenting I was running RaceTech 01 @ 100 bucks a gallon. Won't be doing that twice, I can tell ya that. Ive also heard its nothing more than rebottled Motorex.
I dont have anything bad to say about the RaceTech01 other than it didnt perform to its price tag @ $25 per quart. For 9 bucks, Id probably still be running it.
I experimented with some very different oils in the outer chambers (showa on an 03 CRF). At one point I was running 0-20 wt M1 engine oil. I can honestly say, zero sticktion. None. The seals left a smeary look. The fork tubes didnt attract dirt, but they werent dry either. The motor oil did come out dirty though after a relatively short period (10 hours of moto/practice/trail) Since going to the ATF, Ive notice how much cleaner things come apart also. Even after flushing the fork itself, that stuff is still clean too. Amazing. Prior to my experiment and really the cause of my experimenting I was running RaceTech 01 @ 100 bucks a gallon. Won't be doing that twice, I can tell ya that. Ive also heard its nothing more than rebottled Motorex.
I dont have anything bad to say about the RaceTech01 other than it didnt perform to its price tag @ $25 per quart. For 9 bucks, Id probably still be running it.
NO HAND
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- Jun 21, 2000
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I would recommend the Mobil1 0w-20, but remember it is only recommended in the spring chamber. The 0w-20 is thicker than ATF and the thicker oil allows the stock oil lock ring to work like it was intended; because it is very slack and needs heavy oil to even work at controlling the "bottom-out". I only use ATF for the spring chamber on the Showa fork, IF it has aftermarket oil lock rings. For the inner chamber, the last post talked about Motorex, I had a chance to try this oil also and it is now my first pick.
bclapham
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- Nov 5, 2001
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how confident is everyone that the showa fork twin chambers really are isolated? I had the concept explained to be by a very knowledgable guy, and he was confident that the two chambers do circulate oil. You can test this by running different coloured oils in each chamber.
On the new KYB forks, he explained that the chambers really are separate- they have a much more significant seal, and this in turn is why they can be a pain to bleed.
On the new KYB forks, he explained that the chambers really are separate- they have a much more significant seal, and this in turn is why they can be a pain to bleed.
Oh no, they mix!
Now I'm nervous! I stopped at Autozone on the way home and grabbed a bottle of 0W-20 Mobil 1 for the outer chambers. I'll be using japanese made Factory Connection FF5 in the inners.. Unfortunately both oils are neutral (amber) colored so it will be hard to tell if they are mixing.
If they do mix I should be able to tell as the forks will slow down with use....we'll see.
bclapham said:
Now I'm nervous! I stopped at Autozone on the way home and grabbed a bottle of 0W-20 Mobil 1 for the outer chambers. I'll be using japanese made Factory Connection FF5 in the inners.. Unfortunately both oils are neutral (amber) colored so it will be hard to tell if they are mixing.
If they do mix I should be able to tell as the forks will slow down with use....we'll see.
NO HAND
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Bruce, I can assure you they don't mix really that much if ever they do... because I have used different color oils in the different chambers and they always clearly come out their respective color. Since ever I run red stuff in the spring chamber and motorex 2.5 (clear as water) in the inner chamber and never even had a hint of red in the inner chamber oil.
bclapham said:
Are you saying the fork seals were not able to completely squeegee off the motor oil? I guess it would be easier for a seal to wipe 5wt vs. 10 wt.
If it's a 0W-20 and in a fork that does not really get that hot, maybe 120°F, I wonder what the operating viscosity is? Maybe 7ish?
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