Micahdawg

Member
Feb 2, 2001
503
0
I just got done installing a 110-90-19 rear tire on my RM250. I had some trouble the first time and popped the tube (which was the old tube).....but before I attempted it again with a brand new tube I searched this site for some help. Since it went much smoother, I thought I would offer what I did that helped out for others who may be looking for tips.

Only special tools I have are two tire spoons (about 12 inches long) and a couple short bicycle tire spoons. Getting the tire off isn't usually very difficult as it doesn't usually matter if you pop the tube or damage the tire. But there are some things you'll need to know if you have never done this before.

The rim is a smaller diameter in the middle than it is on the extreme outside bead area. Therefore, it is critical that you squish the tire into the center of the wheel when removing and installing. To do this, you remove the shraeder valve in the inner tube so it deflates. Also loosen the tire lock nut and inner tube lock nuts Then lay the rim flat on the ground and use your heel to squish the tire away from the bead all the way around the wheel. You'll visibly see a separation from the rim by about 1/8-1/4 inch. You have to do this on both sides so that the tire is "free" and can wiggle around a little.

Then use the spoons to start prying the tire over the lip of the rim. I use both good spoons about 4 inches apart from each other. Then I stick the small bicycle spoon in place of my good one so that I can remove the good one and use it a few inches down from the tire. If you just pull one out, the tire might pop back inside the rim. So you continue to walk around the tire until one side is totally over the lip of the rim. At this point, you can reach inside and start pulling the inner tube out.

Then you use the same method again to get the other side of the tire walking over the lip of the rim. This side is a little more awkward since you are now working over the valley of the rim. Just remember to keep the area of the tire that you ARE NOT prying on in the middle of the rim. The smaller diameter will allow you to shift the tire lip even closer to coming over the lip of the rim.

Now everything is off. This is a good time to replace the rubber band that covers the spokes if your's is trashed. Remember to run the band OVER the rim lock so it stays in place.

To reinstall, I sprayed the new inner tube very generously with Simple Green. Getting it extra soaked will also help tranfer the liquid solution to the lip of the tire as you install the tube. This will make the tire lip slide on easier. You could use Windex or any other watery/soapy solution that won't dry immediately. Just avoid slick stuff like armor all as it might not dry and could allow the tube and tire to slip around on the wheel.

Getting a new tire started on the rim can be awkward....so use whatever method is best for you. But with the tire in your hands and trying to force it over the wheel lip you have a lot of flexibility to manipulate the tire. I could set it halfway over the lip and then used the spoons to pull it over the rest of the way.

Once you get one entire side over the wheel lip, you can start to feed the tube into the tire cavity. Start by lining the valve stem up with the hole. You can either install the stem through the wheel first, before walking the tube into the rest of the tire.....or just set the whole valve stem portion of the tube inside the wheel, then walk the tube in around the rest of the wheel and finally poke around with your fingers to get the stem through the hole in the wheel. Remember, the tire is flexible and you can move it back and forth at this point to give you more or less room to get your hand in there. Once the stem is through, put the nut on most of the way so it doesn't come back off.

Now is the hard part. Getting the remaining exposed tire lip over the lip of the wheel without pinching the tube. Before starting on this side, make sure the underside of the already installed tire lip is located between the wheel and rim lock. That part of the tire will stay firmly located by the wheel lip, but the rest of the tire should be able to be manipulated back to the center of the wheel (again, the smallest diameter section of the wheel). Also pump some air into the tube. You'll want enough air to get most of the folds out of the tube, but not enough air to register any pressure with a gauge and definitely not enough to cause the tube to expand at all.

Working with the wheel flat on the ground, start opposite the rim lock and carefully poke the tire spoon into the wheel lip. You can use one hand to push the spoon in and the other to feel out the tube location so that you aren't prying it against the rim. Once you feel like you have a good spot, pry the tire lip over the wheel lip. Move 4 inches or so down and repeat. I used my smaller bicycle spoon again to put between my good spoons, so that I can remove the good spoon and use it a few more inches down.

Once you get the tire halfway on....you'll run into two issues. One, you don't have room to stick your fingers inside the rim and feel for tube location anymore and two, the tire lip will be getting much harder to pull over the wheel lip. You should also be able to remove all spoons and have the installed portion of tire remain in place. At this point, I stand up and hold the wheel/tire assembly virticle between my legs. Put the halfway installed portion between your legs so that your ankles, calfs, and knees can all sqeeze on this section of the tire.

Then get your good spoon and squeeze away with your legs while prying on the rest of the section. If you have enough air in the inner tube, then you should be able to stick the tire spoon in the wheel lip just far enough to pry on the tire without risk of pinching the tube. As you pry, squeeze as hard as you can on with your legs. As your legs force the tire to be skinnier, the force of your spoon will drive the whole tire up into the center of the wheel and free up some room for you. When you get the tire lip over the rim lip, remove your spoon and spin the wheel/tire assembly toward you about 4 inches so you can repeat the process on a new section. It should only take you about 4 more prys before you get the tire on, but remember the harder you squeeze with your legs, the easier the tire willl go on.

I just did this last night and it was cake. Also the weather was in the 40's in an unheated garage so I didn't even have the warm weather to soften up the tire. At this point you can tighten the rim lock, tighten the valve stem and pump up to the desired pressure.

Micah
 
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overbore

Member
Dec 24, 2001
362
0
Cool article and wish I had read it about 3 years ago before fighting them around learning
as I went.One thing I still wonder and wanted to make sure of your method is,
do you always start or insert the rim lock first which makes for the tire a hard time to move?
Thanks overbore.
 

phranticness

Member
Jan 4, 2006
134
1
one other thing I found out the hard way a couple of times, I've tightened the rim lock and punctured the tube in the process. I've found that prior to tightening the lock, inflate the tube to 10lbs or so, then with the schrader valve removed, let the air out. Then tighten the rim lock. this seems to get the tube out of any pinch situation with the lock. thats just my 2 cents
 

Micahdawg

Member
Feb 2, 2001
503
0
I've done both ways with the rim lock. I've started mounting the tire with the rim lock already in the tire and held loosely by the nut. I've also had a tire half way installed and then slipped the rim lock in there, but again, kept it loose.

I'm a firm beleiver in hosing the tube down with some solution and also pumping some air in it too. Makes things soooo much easier.

Micah
 

nickyd

Member
Sep 22, 2004
873
0
Micahdawg said:
I'm a firm beleiver in hosing the tube down with some solution and also pumping some air in it too. Makes things soooo much easier.

Micah


for the air thing - I put on one side of the tire - install the tube and rim lock and then blast the tube full with air to get it to untwist and at the same time, it will fall deeper into the tire and be less likely to be hung up under the edge of the rim you are about to pry on. Of course, then I pull the valve core and let the air fizzle out.
 

robwbright

Member
Apr 8, 2005
2,283
0
This would be very useful, but I found a local guy that does it for $5, so I doubt I'll use it much . . . :laugh:

Thanks for the info tho
 

nickyd

Member
Sep 22, 2004
873
0
robwbright said:
This would be very useful, but I found a local guy that does it for $5, so I doubt I'll use it much . . . :laugh:

Thanks for the info tho

Where? I'm sending mine to him. tire changing sure isn't fun...
 

Agitator

Member
Dec 21, 2005
210
0
I struggled a LOT with bicycle tires over the years (popped 3 tubes!@#$) before I got it right...
It's AWESOME that you made these instructions, but I think most LOCAL tire shops will install the tires for very little money $$...
My local shop charges like $5 or so...

nickyd: You should look in your phone book for tire shops and ask 'em about changin' tires- I'm sure you'd find one that would do it//
 

nickyd

Member
Sep 22, 2004
873
0
Agitator said:
nickyd: You should look in your phone book for tire shops and ask 'em about changin' tires- I'm sure you'd find one that would do it//

$5 for an MC tire seems very cheap. considering most labor rates are $60/hr, I can't see them charging $5. I've seen $20 at most places.
 

Micahdawg

Member
Feb 2, 2001
503
0
Yeah, for $20 you can save a lot of headache. Or for $20 you can buy the tools and learn something new. It all depends on which road you take, but I know there will be boneheads like me who insist on changing their own tires which was the genesis of this thread.

Micah
 

mafols

Sponsoring Member
Nov 24, 2001
269
1
Try calling the $5 dollar guy when you are out on location and see what he tells ya' :laugh:

Learning to change a tire/tube quickly is always a good idea. I've found that....the more you do it...the better you become. You'd be surprised at how many people are ready to load up the bike just because they have a flat. This really sucks when YOUR riding depends on them being able to ride along with you :bang: ....Can you imagine calling it a day or even a weekend because of a flat tire... :|

A sure way to gain favor amongst your riding buddies is to offer to fix their flat tire... I always give them the ol' " I'll change the tube if you remove the wheel from the bike" line. They always think they are getting the better end of the deal until they see how effortless it was to replace the tube. :laugh:

Being an efficent tire guy will always make your riding buddies eternally grateful...and may well save that spoiled riding trip someday ;)
 
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junkjeeps

LIFETIME SPONSOR
Nov 24, 2001
671
0
Or you could just ride on Maxxis tires completely flat all weekend. I don't remember getting the offer of "I'll change the tube if you take off the wheel!" Maxxis should be called runs flat. The side walls on the rears are so stiff I really rode all weekend in Barnwell on a flat and went everywhere the rest of the crew went.

Mark
 

mafols

Sponsoring Member
Nov 24, 2001
269
1
I was still in training then......the following year( when you didn't come)....I changed Caleb's tire for him :nener:

See what ya' miss out on by staying home :laugh:
 

overbore

Member
Dec 24, 2001
362
0
I am asking if when you get to the last lip after installing one side and putting the tube
in,
then start the last side do you put the tire under the rim lock immediately or do you do it
last?
Thanks overbore
 

nickyd

Member
Sep 22, 2004
873
0
put the rim lock in the tire loosely - put the nut a turn or two so it does not pull through - and then seat the bead of the final side of the tire - you'll need the rim lock loose so you can push it up into the tire to seat the bead
 

overbore

Member
Dec 24, 2001
362
0
Thanks for the answer.
I was thinking that next time I might try the rim lock last on the final side so the
tire could move around better and make it a little easier is why I ask.
overbore.
 
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