Rear wheel bearing removal
- Thread starter XRIowa
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Green Hornet
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- Apr 2, 2005
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Assuming that you are going to replace the bearings, use a long screwdriver and tap out. When installing, use a socket of the same circumference and tap into place with a rubber mallet.
Ol'89r
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- Jan 27, 2000
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A little bit of heat will help. If you dont have a torch set, get a butane torch at your local hardware supply and heat the hub until you can sizzle a drop of water on the hub. This will expand the hub and loosen the grip on the bearing and make it easier to tap out the old bearing.
Install the new bearings the same way only place the new bearing in your freezer for a while. Be careful not to overheat the hub. The new bearing should almost drop-in.
Install the new bearings the same way only place the new bearing in your freezer for a while. Be careful not to overheat the hub. The new bearing should almost drop-in.
Once wheel is removed, clean away dirt and gunk from bearing area. Take a flat blade screw driver and remove the black wheel bearing seals. One side of the wheel will have a snap-ring, I believe it's the drive side, remove that with a pair of snap-ring pliers (I purchased mine at Sears, where America shops). I recommend a long flat tipped punch but a long flat blade screwdriver can work, as mentioned above.
Place the wheel on top of a 5-gal bucket or something similar to support the wheel. From the opposite side of the bearing you will be driving out, insert the long punch into the hub and slide it down the side until you feel it catch on the bearing (there is a very small gap between the bearing and the hub spacer). Once you feel the punch catch give it a solid hit with a large hammer. Note, I recommend a hand mallet, 2 lbs. or so, as a light blow from a heavy hammer works better than hard blows from a light hammer. Use caution as the punch will slide off of the bearing edge and through the hub. Continue tapping the bearing out by moving the punch from top to bottom, then side to side for each consecutive hammer blow--the idea is to tap the bearing our evenly so it doesn't oval the bearing race in the hub. As the bearing is driven out, you will have more room for the punch to engage the bearing race as the hub spacer will have room to move out of the way.
As mentioned, place the new bearing in the freezer (20 minutes should do it) and tap the first in using a socket that fits on the outside bearing race. Never drive a bearing in using the inside (smaller diameter race). Again, light blows from a heavy hammer work best and a light coat of anti-seize on the bearing race of the hub will prevent galling. Don't forget to replace the hub spacer BEFORE driving in the second bearing. Reinstall the snap-ring, grease and install the seals and you are good to go. :cool:
Place the wheel on top of a 5-gal bucket or something similar to support the wheel. From the opposite side of the bearing you will be driving out, insert the long punch into the hub and slide it down the side until you feel it catch on the bearing (there is a very small gap between the bearing and the hub spacer). Once you feel the punch catch give it a solid hit with a large hammer. Note, I recommend a hand mallet, 2 lbs. or so, as a light blow from a heavy hammer works better than hard blows from a light hammer. Use caution as the punch will slide off of the bearing edge and through the hub. Continue tapping the bearing out by moving the punch from top to bottom, then side to side for each consecutive hammer blow--the idea is to tap the bearing our evenly so it doesn't oval the bearing race in the hub. As the bearing is driven out, you will have more room for the punch to engage the bearing race as the hub spacer will have room to move out of the way.
As mentioned, place the new bearing in the freezer (20 minutes should do it) and tap the first in using a socket that fits on the outside bearing race. Never drive a bearing in using the inside (smaller diameter race). Again, light blows from a heavy hammer work best and a light coat of anti-seize on the bearing race of the hub will prevent galling. Don't forget to replace the hub spacer BEFORE driving in the second bearing. Reinstall the snap-ring, grease and install the seals and you are good to go. :cool:
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