Rebuild time

mnnthbx

Member
Apr 1, 2003
301
0
Rebuild time + nude pics

A few Q's here.

My KDX is half way through its second rear tire, and I just changed the brake pads for the first time. (I state this only as a measure of how much the bike has been used.

When should I think about dropping a new piston and rings in? Should I use a Wiseco? Since the jug is plated, I don't bore or hone, right?

Time for a KIPS clean-up?

The bike gives me know problems, but these two things slowly (unnoticably) eat away at power..........

Switching subjects a bit...
If I don't hold the kill switch in until the bike is totally dead, it will try to keep running. I don't remember it doing this when it was newer.

Also, it seems that a small amount of fuel always makes its way aroung my air screw,and runs down the seam of the carb. Normal?

Last Q. Is it bad to take a link out of a chain when it stretches too long? I had to start running my R1 at adjustment #6 when it was new due to the small front sprocket. I'll soon be out of adjustment room.

Sorry for using the "nudes" to lure folks in.
 

mnnthbx

Member
Apr 1, 2003
301
0
Thanks. It's an 03 200. It's not that the chain is old. Like I said, when it was new, I had to start on the #6 adjuster position, instead of #1 or #2 like I would with the stock spocket.
 

moridin

~SPONSOR~
Dec 30, 2003
257
0
Sorry - but bad advice above on the chain. That stock chain was designed for you to ride it off the showroom floor. Seriously.

Check out the threads here and pick you up a nice o-ring of the proper length. They are not maintenace free as many claim - but they will last you a full season of hard riding. The stocker may last a good day (if you are lucky).

On normal two stokes - I use the 5 rear tires = new top ends. On the KDX - I think you can double that. Most folks racing their KDXs do them once a season. Those using them for trailing only can go every 2 years. Exceptions to every rule of course - you mileage may vary.

Sean
 

ScottS

Member
Dec 29, 1999
478
0
it may be running on longer when you push the kill switch because it has less compression ? - therefore it is still moving fast enough to re-start unless you hold the button down- when it was fresh and tight , it probably stopped immediately,
 

mnnthbx

Member
Apr 1, 2003
301
0
Moridin, I must not have been to clear. I'll try again.

It is a fairly new Renthal R1 chain on the bike. Because I run a 12 tooth front, the chain was a tiny bit long. When I first installed it (it was new then), I had to adjust the tensioners to the #6 notch. It has stretched a little, and I'll soon be out of room to adjust, but since I had to start with the #6 instaed of #1, I feel I can get more (safely) out of the chain life by removing one link. I hope thats a bit clearer.

Thanks for all the replies.
 

Green Horn

aka Chip Carbone
N. Texas SP
Jun 20, 1999
2,563
0
The mind of "Greenie" says he wants nude pics. :laugh:
 

cr2504life

Member
May 17, 2004
141
0
It would be ok to take a link out of your chain. But i would wait until you have no adjustment left because 1 link makes a big difference especially if you might want to put the bigger sprocket on.
 

moridin

~SPONSOR~
Dec 30, 2003
257
0
Roger - didnt understand it was a new chain, Think CR250 up there is right - go one link and see what you get. Kind of hard to put them back together.
 
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