Rekluse + 03 250sx = ?????
- Thread starter Midhigh
- Start date
- Thread starter
- #3
Rekluse ride report.
first, the installation was very easy. It went on just as the instructions said. I am running the slip spring at the medium stall speed.
after the first ride I am very pleased. It takes a little to get used to, but the slip clutch is very consistant. It is noticably peppy in 1st and 2nd gear. 3rd gear is real smooth and very manageable in the woods. this thing is a wonderful clutch and very consistant and smooth. I can tell that on a 2-stroke the jetting must be on and running clean.
as for the riding. I noticed very soon after the first ride that without the clutch I tend to grip to hard and I will have to work on relaxing more.
brakes slides are awesome, stalls are a thing of the past. every bike needs this clutch.
first, the installation was very easy. It went on just as the instructions said. I am running the slip spring at the medium stall speed.
after the first ride I am very pleased. It takes a little to get used to, but the slip clutch is very consistant. It is noticably peppy in 1st and 2nd gear. 3rd gear is real smooth and very manageable in the woods. this thing is a wonderful clutch and very consistant and smooth. I can tell that on a 2-stroke the jetting must be on and running clean.
as for the riding. I noticed very soon after the first ride that without the clutch I tend to grip to hard and I will have to work on relaxing more.
brakes slides are awesome, stalls are a thing of the past. every bike needs this clutch.
knobbiethrower
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- Apr 21, 2000
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Thanks for the report.
Are you using the same type of tranny oil ?
Are you considering installing the rear brake option to eliminate clutch lever on bars?
Are you using the same type of tranny oil ?
Are you considering installing the rear brake option to eliminate clutch lever on bars?
- Thread starter
- #5
knobbiethrower said:
Rekluse recomends running Shell Rotell T 15/40 oil. I have been using that thus far. After two rides and an oil change after each the oil looks very clean and not burnt up.
rekluse also warns against using the clutch at all on ktm's. they say it might damage the tension spring bearing. So I took the clutch lever off.
I finally stalled it today. not sure how. But after around 50 miles stalling it only once is very acceptable. I even got crossed up in a mud hole and it stayed running. picked it up, walked it out of the mud, got on and kept riding.
I love this thing on hill climbs. the loop we were riding had a couple that require some mid climb turns and line changes. nothing to worry about except where to put the front wheel. control the throttle and no wheel spin, just traction.
- May 14, 2000
- 1,082
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Nice!,.. thanks for the report.
I wonder if in a sitiuation where the gearing may be a bit tall for a tight section, does applying the throttle cause the bike to learch forward,.. or is the engagement smooth and forgiving. Im intersted in trying one out,... but at that price I need to try someone elses first ! LOL!
Oh, and my next question is compression breaking, (this may not be as noticable on a 2st) but,.. is it the same as long as the rpms are above engagement speed? Do you ever experience a situation where you down shift into a corner antisipating engine break,.... but instead it goes into free-wheel mode? With my 4st,.. I rely on engine breaking alot.
Maybe someone with the rekluse installed on a 4st could answer this one.
I wonder if in a sitiuation where the gearing may be a bit tall for a tight section, does applying the throttle cause the bike to learch forward,.. or is the engagement smooth and forgiving. Im intersted in trying one out,... but at that price I need to try someone elses first ! LOL!
Oh, and my next question is compression breaking, (this may not be as noticable on a 2st) but,.. is it the same as long as the rpms are above engagement speed? Do you ever experience a situation where you down shift into a corner antisipating engine break,.... but instead it goes into free-wheel mode? With my 4st,.. I rely on engine breaking alot.
Maybe someone with the rekluse installed on a 4st could answer this one.
Last edited:
- May 14, 2000
- 1,082
- 6
Ok,.. I did some reading at the rekluse site and they claim that the engegement RATE is adjustable,.. to people in the know,.. is this statement true? and does the clutch cover have to be removed each time to make the adjustment. Also, I see where the stall speed is adjustable too,.. which I already suspected.
Im becoming more interested in this unit, id like to hear from people who were NOT satisfied with the rekluse and there opinions as well! Rekluse has it listed for $479. any better price available?
Midhigh, I didnt see where rekluse advised against using the manual clutch in conjunction,... can you show me where. That would be an issue for me, cause I probably wouldnt want one if I couldnt use the existing manual clutch. (call me stuborn)
Im becoming more interested in this unit, id like to hear from people who were NOT satisfied with the rekluse and there opinions as well! Rekluse has it listed for $479. any better price available?
Midhigh, I didnt see where rekluse advised against using the manual clutch in conjunction,... can you show me where. That would be an issue for me, cause I probably wouldnt want one if I couldnt use the existing manual clutch. (call me stuborn)
- Thread starter
- #8
Shaw520,
engine breaking is noticable with the rekluse, but i really only felt it after strong/long straights and on down hills. As soon as you lock the rear wheel, you can feel the engine rpm's drop quick.
as for the engagement, I felt it to be really smooth. its all about throttle control. I thought it may be alittle to smooth at times, but the guy behind me said I was throwing prenty of dirt his way.
from what i understand from the instructions i got with my rekluse - engagement & stall speed are the same thing. it is the rpm's at which the clutch engages or disengages to prevent stalling. and yes it is adjustable. it has two springs and to spacers giving you 5 positions to choose from for stall/engagement speed. very low, low, medium 1, medium 2, & high. I started at medium 1.
The instructions had a warning for KTM hydro clutches not to use the clutch lever, especially when the bike is not running. damage to the spring and tension bearing could occur they say. So I took my lever off to keep me from grabbing it.
The best part about all this is the cost. I work for the local Kawasaki & KTM dealership and got mine as the dealer demo for under 1/2 off retail.
engine breaking is noticable with the rekluse, but i really only felt it after strong/long straights and on down hills. As soon as you lock the rear wheel, you can feel the engine rpm's drop quick.
as for the engagement, I felt it to be really smooth. its all about throttle control. I thought it may be alittle to smooth at times, but the guy behind me said I was throwing prenty of dirt his way.
from what i understand from the instructions i got with my rekluse - engagement & stall speed are the same thing. it is the rpm's at which the clutch engages or disengages to prevent stalling. and yes it is adjustable. it has two springs and to spacers giving you 5 positions to choose from for stall/engagement speed. very low, low, medium 1, medium 2, & high. I started at medium 1.
The instructions had a warning for KTM hydro clutches not to use the clutch lever, especially when the bike is not running. damage to the spring and tension bearing could occur they say. So I took my lever off to keep me from grabbing it.
The best part about all this is the cost. I work for the local Kawasaki & KTM dealership and got mine as the dealer demo for under 1/2 off retail.
barkbuster67
Member
- Nov 6, 2002
- 238
- 0
Once you learn how to use an auto clutch, and understand both the positive and negitive aspects it really is one of the best aftermarket products to buy. I would go with a auto clutch before a steering stabilizer, which is close to the same price. I ran the EFM on my last bike and just purchased the Rekluse for the new ride. That should tell ya how much I believe in the auto clutch. I went with the Rekluse this time because I understand the manual clutch can override the Rekluse at high RPM. As far as the KTM issues with the hydro clutch?! That's a none issue, and it applies to all bikes with a hydro clutch. If you have a hydro clutch with a auto clutch installed, the only time you can use the lever is if the motor is running. Remember, with a stock clutch set up, the pressure plate uses springs. With an auto clutch, you have a ramped ball bearings that need RPM's to make it work. Just keep your clutch lever grabbing buds away from your ride while it is parked and you won't have an issue. I just used a long piece of velcro around the lever and barkbuster to prevent the lever from being pulled. Oh, and I've gone more than 5 miles down the trail before I realized I still had the velcro attached to the lever. As far as reliabilty, I have two years on the EFM with no problems and did not need to replace any fibers or plates. But I did notice that I started going through rear brake pads more due to the change in riding style.
ziptiedEXC
Member
- Apr 5, 2006
- 75
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I have the Rekluse, and the advice I got, was not to pull the lever several times while the bike is not running. I allways pull the clutch in when starting and sometimes out of corners instead of downshifting. I have had the Rekluse since November when the bike was new, and have not had any problems. As for the install, anyone that can follow instructions can do it.
- May 14, 2000
- 1,082
- 6
Thanks for all your replys,... and from what I've gathered on here and on other sites is that it may be the cat's meow for some,... but some of us old dogs just prefer to leave well enough alone. The thing that interested me most was the fact that it would allow me to crawl through the tight slippery rock sections, while still keeping a higher gear ratio (pro).
But changing my riding style specially on down hills & cornering is something I didnt want to do, (con).
If locking up the back wheel, causes the clutch to go into disengagement, that seems to be a real hinderence.
Guess I'll wait to try some elses! :cool:
But changing my riding style specially on down hills & cornering is something I didnt want to do, (con).
If locking up the back wheel, causes the clutch to go into disengagement, that seems to be a real hinderence.
Guess I'll wait to try some elses! :cool:
barkbuster67
Member
- Nov 6, 2002
- 238
- 0
Shaw520, your exactly right about cornering. If your normal riding style is to lock up the rear and slide it around a corner then clutch out, the auto clutch will be difficult to get the most out of it. If you are more of a brake on the straight coming into a corner, then the auto clutch is for you. You really start to pick up corner speed when get some time on a auto clutch. I have not had any problems with down hills as long as you continue to twist the throttle to keep the rpm's up. Remember, a downhill is just a straight away with a corner at the bottom. If you get a chance to try one, the best thing to do is to remove the clutch lever. Your learning curve will greatly increase.
