Back in March I installed a rev-loc auto clutch on my 00 kdx 200. I purchased the entire unit used from a local rider. The seller decided to remove the unit before he sold his kdx (defected to Orange), figuring he would never recapture the $900 rev-loc cost if left installed on the bike. It came complete with plates, shims, springs, and instructions. I called rev-loc for consultation on the installation and they were extremely helpful even with the knowledge that I was not the original owner. They provided me with some helpful setup tips, like using only 2 of the 4 pressure plate springs for off idle engagement.
I live in South Eastern, NY and do mostly east coast NETRA type riding (hardly ever past 3 gear). I adapted to the auto clutch right away. I can say that I will probably have one of these units on my bikes for the rest of my life. My first few rides were on faster terrain (quad trails) and some hard laps on a motocross track. On the quad trails it didn’t make a difference, but on the motocross track, I was able to ride longer and more aggressive via lack of arm pump. The terrain that really made me a believer was riding a mile long, nasty, blown out, root infested, swamp trail, the type where it’s knee deep black muck and always a game of survival. I was the first one through every time, just put it in gear and twist, no need to work the clutch or worry about stalling. For blazing new trails or marking club race courses, this is the hot ticket. I have recently put in about 100 miles on some very tough eastern single track and the unit has really helped improve my riding technique. On a normal clutched bike, I sometimes lug the engine in a gear too high, using the low end to conserve energy and fanning the clutch for bursts. I now find myself in the meat of the powerband more often for a few reasons; 1) I am less tired from arm pump 2) I don’t have a clutch to fan for instant power, so gear selection is more critical. 3) It is impossible to stall so you can charge and brake slide every turn. I rigged up my clutch lever to activate the rear brake to enhance this capability (see link).
http://www.geocities.com/jdelavalle/kdx.html
There are some auto clutch side effects that you have to adapt to though. When you completely chop the throttle or slam on the brakes, the bike freewheels. This attribute can be almost eliminated with a low spring tension setting. I had a few scares when using slightly higher tension, going into turns with no engine braking and wheel brakes only. On steep downhills this hasn’t been a problem because I consciously apply the throttle while descending. If you are in the right gear, logs, ditches, water crossings are not a problem. Wheelies are the same and you can still shift while the front end is in the air. I never used the clutch when shifting on wheelies anyway.
Many previous auto clutch reviews posted how well they worked on hill climbs, here is where I still have to experiment. Picture dropping into a 30’ deep “V” ravine, with a stream at the bottom and a log in the middle. The climb out of the ”V” is basically from a dead stop. I tried it in first gear and the clutch and rear wheel would slip, grab, slip, grab, and the front end would raise, drop, raise, drop. It made a for very awkward ravine exit, where normally I would carefully modulate the clutch to control wheel spin and front wheel altitude. In this instance I was the last rider out and didn’t have time to do it again. I may try it in second gear next time and just let the auto clutch do the slipping for me. Mentally it is just hard to go up something near vertical from a dead stop in second gear.
As far as installation, it takes about a half and hour. I have an electric impact wrench and have swapped clutches back and forth a few times. Care must be given in removing the outer clutch cover so as not to rip the $9.99 gasket. I ripped it once and now dowse them in grease to keep pliable. I noticed quite a bit more aluminum speckles in my tranny oil, so I do inspections and change the oil more often.