I installed a Rekluse z-start auto clutch on my GasGas 300XC.
First the bottom line, the clutch works very well, especially in the technical areas. This is where the z-start shines. It provides the optimal low RPM slip to make getting through the technical rock and root infested sections a breeze. You focus on throttle control and the clutch does a far better job of modulating hook-up than I could ever dream of. Rocky, stepped hills that would take multiple attempts with the stock clutch are a breeze with the z-start. It eliminates stalls and makes the power application so smooth and easy. If you are good enough to ride the technical stuff without stalling, then you don’t need this clutch. However, if you are like me, it is a huge benefit - like having a pro operating my clutch so that I don’t stall and I apply optimal power. It is easier and more fun to ride.
It is also great for brake sliding – no worries about stalls. Just slam on the brakes slide, hit the gas and go.
If you primarily ride in open stuff and don’t have a problem with stalling, than the z-start won’t provide you much benefit.
Now, for the other considerations.
The product is well thought out from the design application perspective. The pressure plate load has an upper limit by design of a plate that deflects at a given load. This limits the pressure plate load to a level comparable to that of the stock pressure plate and spring combination. This is a big advantage over the competitors’ products.
You can fully disengage your clutch with the lever, manually overriding the clutch. It fully disengages at low to mid RPM. It disengages most of the way at high RPM. You will get some creep at high RPM. This allows you to rev the engine and dump the clutch if you so desire. However, with the effectiveness of the clutch and the GasGas power delivery, it worked so well I did not feel the need to do this.
The auto clutch does not make it a continuously variable transmission. You still need reasonable gear selection. If you are in much too high of a gear the clutch will slip and slip. You will move, but it will be less than optimal and it will be hard on your clutch.
When the engine and clutch are cold, you will probably need the manual clutch lever to start the bike out at first because the drag is a bit high when first starting. Once the clutch is rolling and the oil is worked in then things work well.
You can no longer bump start your engine. On the other hand you really won’t need to do it if you bike is running right, because you won’t be stalling.
In gear there is just enough clutch drag to keep the machine from rolling down moderate hills. On steep hills, you will need to make some sort of a parking brake. I made a wood block to put between the rear brake lever and case to lock the rear brake on when parked on a steeper incline.
It takes time and patience to dial the z-start in. Installation requires measuring clearances and stacking the appropriate combination of stock and z-start drive plates to get the correct operating clearances. Adjustment of the engagement speed requires spring and/or shim replacement. Expect multiple adjustments. I ended up using the L2 spring which Rekluse sent out at my request with (1) 0.018 inch washer. There are lots of pieces to assemble without dropping in the case. Be sure to stuff rags around the clutch.
The clutch cover has to be shimmed out with gaskets. I ended up needing more gaskets than Rekluse provided. They sent me more when I asked. Overall, I shimmed it out 0.27 inches. I also had to purchase longer bolts for the clutch cover as the stock bolts had inadequate engagement and Rekluse did not provide longer bolts. I used (2) 80 mm long bolts and (3) 30 mm long bolts.
Another tip on installation and adjustment – do not take the rear brake lever off. Instead, pry the rear brakes shoes apart and move the brake lever way down and secure it out of the way with a piece of wire. Just don’t forget to pump the brake a few times to get the pads seated before you take off and ride.
In spite of the operating difference and the installation work, I like the z-start clutch. It works wonders for me.
Eric K
'01 GasGas 300XC
'00 Sherco 290
First the bottom line, the clutch works very well, especially in the technical areas. This is where the z-start shines. It provides the optimal low RPM slip to make getting through the technical rock and root infested sections a breeze. You focus on throttle control and the clutch does a far better job of modulating hook-up than I could ever dream of. Rocky, stepped hills that would take multiple attempts with the stock clutch are a breeze with the z-start. It eliminates stalls and makes the power application so smooth and easy. If you are good enough to ride the technical stuff without stalling, then you don’t need this clutch. However, if you are like me, it is a huge benefit - like having a pro operating my clutch so that I don’t stall and I apply optimal power. It is easier and more fun to ride.
It is also great for brake sliding – no worries about stalls. Just slam on the brakes slide, hit the gas and go.
If you primarily ride in open stuff and don’t have a problem with stalling, than the z-start won’t provide you much benefit.
Now, for the other considerations.
The product is well thought out from the design application perspective. The pressure plate load has an upper limit by design of a plate that deflects at a given load. This limits the pressure plate load to a level comparable to that of the stock pressure plate and spring combination. This is a big advantage over the competitors’ products.
You can fully disengage your clutch with the lever, manually overriding the clutch. It fully disengages at low to mid RPM. It disengages most of the way at high RPM. You will get some creep at high RPM. This allows you to rev the engine and dump the clutch if you so desire. However, with the effectiveness of the clutch and the GasGas power delivery, it worked so well I did not feel the need to do this.
The auto clutch does not make it a continuously variable transmission. You still need reasonable gear selection. If you are in much too high of a gear the clutch will slip and slip. You will move, but it will be less than optimal and it will be hard on your clutch.
When the engine and clutch are cold, you will probably need the manual clutch lever to start the bike out at first because the drag is a bit high when first starting. Once the clutch is rolling and the oil is worked in then things work well.
You can no longer bump start your engine. On the other hand you really won’t need to do it if you bike is running right, because you won’t be stalling.
In gear there is just enough clutch drag to keep the machine from rolling down moderate hills. On steep hills, you will need to make some sort of a parking brake. I made a wood block to put between the rear brake lever and case to lock the rear brake on when parked on a steeper incline.
It takes time and patience to dial the z-start in. Installation requires measuring clearances and stacking the appropriate combination of stock and z-start drive plates to get the correct operating clearances. Adjustment of the engagement speed requires spring and/or shim replacement. Expect multiple adjustments. I ended up using the L2 spring which Rekluse sent out at my request with (1) 0.018 inch washer. There are lots of pieces to assemble without dropping in the case. Be sure to stuff rags around the clutch.
The clutch cover has to be shimmed out with gaskets. I ended up needing more gaskets than Rekluse provided. They sent me more when I asked. Overall, I shimmed it out 0.27 inches. I also had to purchase longer bolts for the clutch cover as the stock bolts had inadequate engagement and Rekluse did not provide longer bolts. I used (2) 80 mm long bolts and (3) 30 mm long bolts.
Another tip on installation and adjustment – do not take the rear brake lever off. Instead, pry the rear brakes shoes apart and move the brake lever way down and secure it out of the way with a piece of wire. Just don’t forget to pump the brake a few times to get the pads seated before you take off and ride.
In spite of the operating difference and the installation work, I like the z-start clutch. It works wonders for me.
Eric K
'01 GasGas 300XC
'00 Sherco 290
