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Dirt Bike Discussions By Brand
Dirt Bike Brands - Other
removal of rear wheel bushings
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[QUOTE="TexKDX, post: 420262, member: 16276"] Overbore, If is possible to fry a set of rear bearings on your '02 under the right conditions. To isolate the wobble to these bearings, put the bike up on a stand that gets the wheel off the ground and start wiggling the wheel left-to-right. If the wheel moves on the plane of the axle then it is these bearings. If the swingarm moves left - right or can twist it is these bearings. If the swingarm moves up over 1/2 inch then it is your upper shock mount heim bushing. Also make sure your spokes are tight and the wheel is true while you are back there. An out of balance rear wheel (common on a dirt bike) and a worn heim bushing can make for some interesting wobbling sensations coming out of the back on smooth terrain, as will an out of round wheel. 520s have a reputation for eating rear wheel bearings btw. Your 250 could have if there was little grease in them and/or there was some contamination that made it past the seals from lots of wet muddy riding. A pressure washer used in the area is death to them as well. Let's get the basics covered here. First, let's assume you are talking a '92 - 2002 KTM. Second, let's assume you are talking about replacing the rear wheel BEARINGS that the wheel spins on the axle. Not rear spacers, not rear bushings. Bearings. KTM has a new hub out for '03 BTW and I'm not sure how it is constructed. Some of the previous posts contain erroneous info, and some have most of the info. No prying is required. Let me see if I can consolidate some of the right stuff and add to it. On the KTM hub on the [I]BRAKE [/I] side, there is a circlip retainer that must be removed with a set of circlip pliers prior to removal of the bearings. You'll need this tool, a hammer, and a long punch. A 5 gallon bucket helps as well to get the whole assembly up off the ground plus a milk crate to sit on. First, CAREFULLY LIFT out the dust seals, a little at a time, with a flat bladed screwdriver from both sides. Next, with the [I]BRAKE [/I] side up, find the circlip and remove it with the circlip pliers. Once this is out, take your punch and CAREFULLY feel down thru the hub, looking for the lip of the non-sprocket-side bearing. There will be a small lip where it meets the tubular spacer that resides between the two bearings. CAREFULLY begin tapping around the circumference of the bearing lip. It will start to move and the purchase the punch sits on will become greater and easier to find. Gently tap the bearing loose, around the whole bearing, so it slides out pretty much flat and does not deform the soft aluminum hub. Once the bearing is out, go ahead and push the spacer out as well. Flop the wheel over and start working on the [I]BRAKE[/I] -side bearing - it will be on the bottom now. The tricky part on this one is making sure you keep the edge of the punch on the bearing, not pushing into the hub. It is very easy to drive the punch into the hub itself and damage the hub. Be sure your purchase stays on the bearing, and drive it out slowly and flat as you did the other one. Once you have the bearings and seals in hand, you can drive over to the local bearing supply place and match them up for alot less than from the dealer. Or, EE and ERider sell bearing/hardened spacer kits. Note that your stock axle spacers are probably grooved and in need of replacement as well. (not 100% sure they have spacers for the '92-'97 bikes) Once you have the new bearings in hand, they are supposed to be pre-lubed. Some people like to pry the dust cover off the bearing and pack in more grease. It is your call on this one. Put the new bearings in the freezer. While they are chilling, clean the rear hub, spacer, and axle very well. Set your tub of BelRay saltwaterproof grease down next to your work area as well as a socket that is about the same size as the bearing OD. This will be used as your driver to install the new bearing. Things go back together pretty much as they came apart. Be sure to put a goodly amount of the grease between the bearing and the outer seal. Clean and grease the axle. Service your chain adjusters while you are back there as well - clean them and give them a good coating of Anti-sieze grease. Just be sure and do the job without any brute-force efforts. Hammers, steel, and tight tolerances don't get along well with aluminum. The cold bearings will be slightly under their warm size and should go in pretty easily. Hope this helps, (credit Gardener for the corrections) [/QUOTE]
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Dirt Bike Discussions By Brand
Dirt Bike Brands - Other
removal of rear wheel bushings
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