I noticed the last time I tightend my chain that I am almost at the end of my adjuster marks to tighten it. It does seem like it will tighten up more, I'll just have to measure to make sure both sides are equal. However I was wondering if it would be a good idea to take a link of my chain, so that I could restart the adjuster blocks and have more room to tighten. My sprockets are not worn at all. They still show pretty much the factory look. It isn't time yet to replace those. I was just wondering if this is a procedure you can do with an O-ring chain, or what my options are. And if you can take a link out, basically how would I do it?
Removing a Link From Your Chain
- Thread starter jaypro55
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Ol'89r
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- Jan 27, 2000
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jaypro.
You can shorten any chain, o-ring or non o-ring by using a chain breaker. Available at your local shop. (Maybe).
Although, if your chain has stretched that much, you my want to replace it. If it were to break and jam up in the countershaft sprocket it could cost you a lot more than what a new chain would cost. It can also wear out your sprockets.
A way to check it is to grab the chain with your fingers in the middle of the chain where it wraps around the rear sprocket and see if you can lift the chain away from the sprocket. A good chain will cling tightly to the sprocket and a worn chain will lift away from the sprocket. If you can lift it off of the sprocket a 1/2 inch or more, replace it.
Another way is to remove the chain, clean it and lay it out straight on a concrete surface. Take both ends of the chain in your hands and try to push them inward. If you can feel slack or movement in the chain, replace it.
Just my $ .02 :thumb:
You can shorten any chain, o-ring or non o-ring by using a chain breaker. Available at your local shop. (Maybe).
Although, if your chain has stretched that much, you my want to replace it. If it were to break and jam up in the countershaft sprocket it could cost you a lot more than what a new chain would cost. It can also wear out your sprockets.
A way to check it is to grab the chain with your fingers in the middle of the chain where it wraps around the rear sprocket and see if you can lift the chain away from the sprocket. A good chain will cling tightly to the sprocket and a worn chain will lift away from the sprocket. If you can lift it off of the sprocket a 1/2 inch or more, replace it.
Another way is to remove the chain, clean it and lay it out straight on a concrete surface. Take both ends of the chain in your hands and try to push them inward. If you can feel slack or movement in the chain, replace it.
Just my $ .02 :thumb:
- Jan 8, 2000
- 3,331
- 1
Your service manual will give specs on chain wear. Usually it will give a service limt for ten links. My experience is if you have to remove a link, time for a new chain.
I have a question about removing a link or two...
When I buy a new chain from DID they come at 120 links so I have to remove a few to get the right length. I have always used a grinder to take the heads off the rivets of the link to break it, rather than spending money on a chain breaker.
Is this method ok? How well does a chain breaker work? Is it much faster? :eek:
When I buy a new chain from DID they come at 120 links so I have to remove a few to get the right length. I have always used a grinder to take the heads off the rivets of the link to break it, rather than spending money on a chain breaker.
Is this method ok? How well does a chain breaker work? Is it much faster? :eek:
jmics19067
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- Jan 22, 2002
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PowerJoe,
thats the way I do it but two things you need to worry about is mistakingly grinding something you want to keep, and the metal sparks ,and the small pieces of grinding wheel that is spread all over the place will have to be cleaned off real well. Rather common sense but....I think that is the only problems with it Maybe Jaybird can share some more enlightenment.
thats the way I do it but two things you need to worry about is mistakingly grinding something you want to keep, and the metal sparks ,and the small pieces of grinding wheel that is spread all over the place will have to be cleaned off real well. Rather common sense but....I think that is the only problems with it Maybe Jaybird can share some more enlightenment.
Every tool box should have a chain breaker in it.
Of course some think end wrenches are too expensive and choose to use only channel locks on everything. They will probably also have a big hammer.
Of course some think end wrenches are too expensive and choose to use only channel locks on everything. They will probably also have a big hammer.
jmics19067
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- Jan 22, 2002
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we dont need no sticking chain breaker :p
Actually every chain breaker I owned I broke with out even putting a dent in the link pin. Apparently that particular tool is beyond my skills so I prefer to just buy the right length chain, but ..................
I've never broken a chain breaker, and I've used them in my trade for years and years. I have heard of lots of folks breaking them. It has to be a problem with method.
You only want to take a small bite on one pin, then move to the next pin and take a little. Keep repeating process untill the pins have gone through the plate. Taking too much of one pin can not only damage the tool, but the link next to the one you are trying to break.
You only want to take a small bite on one pin, then move to the next pin and take a little. Keep repeating process untill the pins have gone through the plate. Taking too much of one pin can not only damage the tool, but the link next to the one you are trying to break.
jmics19067
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- Jan 22, 2002
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heh that must have been my problem I thought you could just press out the one pin :o
I think that is the problem that most are experienceing, jmics. That's why we made sure the breakers we offer had specific instructions on how to use it on the box.
I've read bad things here about Motion Pro's chain breaker. I suspect it was not the breaker as much as method of the user.
I think that Motion Pro's breaker is desinged to push the pin completly out of both side plates. However, I think they recommend that you first grind the head off the pin before using the tool...IMO why even have a tool if you have to grind the head off???
A typical chain breaker does not need to have the pins ground first, and they only break the pins out of one plate. Grinding is a mistake around a high dollar chain.
I think that Motion Pro's breaker is desinged to push the pin completly out of both side plates. However, I think they recommend that you first grind the head off the pin before using the tool...IMO why even have a tool if you have to grind the head off???
A typical chain breaker does not need to have the pins ground first, and they only break the pins out of one plate. Grinding is a mistake around a high dollar chain.
I'm with Mr. Lucky. Used my Motion Pro breaker on all sorts of chains for years (it's old, maybe they have changed); have always just shoved one pin out, and have never had problems. I never grind anything. I don't know why mine works for me? So listen to Jaybird (unlike me, he seems to actually know what he is talking about:-)). I'll have to try the correct method next time.
The Motion Pro chain breaker is a different type of breaker than the conventional sort. It is made to push each pin completely out before moving to the next pin. It has interchangeable pusher pins that fit with different size chains. It actually is more like a C-clamp with a long pin on the screw. You can use it without getting a small bite of each pin then back again. A conventional breaker only holds the plate you are pushing the pin through and it creates a moment on the plates if you try to take too much at one time.
With your breaker, you are doing it correctly, 01rm125. I'm fairly sure that the folks who have had bad luck with them probably used bad method or something.
With your breaker, you are doing it correctly, 01rm125. I'm fairly sure that the folks who have had bad luck with them probably used bad method or something.
