Repacking a Pro Circuit Silencer

C

cyrk500

Member

Sep 11, 2006

29

0

• Mar 7, 2007

• #1

There are 3 allen screws by where the silencer goes into the head pipe and there are rivets by where the fumes come out, i tried pulling out the canister but it wouldn't budge, do i need to take the rivets out or just tap by where the screws are with a rubber mallet? Thanks

 

RocketRaccoon

~SPONSOR~

Damn Yankees

Nov 7, 2006

258

0

• Mar 7, 2007

• #2

I have the 304 and comes off with the 3 allen screws. Hope that helps.

 

F

FruDaddy

Member

Aug 21, 2005

2,854

0

• Mar 7, 2007

• #3

Leave the rivets alone! A little wiggle, shake, and maybe the mallet should do, unless there is silicon sealing the joint (I cannot remember). The silicon (if present) will need to be cut.

 

C

cyrk500

Member

Sep 11, 2006

29

0

• Mar 8, 2007

• Thread starter
• #4

RocketRaccoon said:

I have the 304 and comes off with the 3 allen screws. Hope that helps.

Click to expand...

Yea I have the 304 as well, i guess i should have mentioned that. Thanks

 

C

cyrk500

Member

Sep 11, 2006

29

0

• Mar 8, 2007

• Thread starter
• #5

FruDaddy said:

Leave the rivets alone! A little wiggle, shake, and maybe the mallet should do, unless there is silicon sealing the joint (I cannot remember). The silicon (if present) will need to be cut.

Click to expand...

Thanks, that will save some time and a little money.

 

J

just_a_rider

Member

Jul 25, 2006

394

1

• Mar 8, 2007

• #6

I've got the stuff to redo this step. I drilled out my rivets with a 5/16 drill bit and took it apart no prob, repacked it and slid it back in lining the holes back up. Using some stainless steel 5/16 rivets and my air poprivit gun I was done.

One note, before I put it back in, I put some RTV black gasket sealer around the part that rivets back to the can.