I've got a 1996 cr 250. It's smokes quite a bit and leaks spooge from the pipe-silencer connection. I know I need to repack the silencer and adjust the jetting as well. The stock silencer only opens from the back end as it has rivets on the other. The old packing is VERY difficult to get out from one end and the thought of getting a new cartridge installed as well. Any ideas for a do-it your selfer? Also, what should expect to pay to have the bike's jetting professionally adjusted? And lastly, is it dangerous or will I cause serious damage to the bike running rich and leaking spooge until I get it fixed? By the way, I'm fairly new to this especially the world of 2 strokes. Thanks.
repacking silencer and jetting on a cr 250
- Thread starter tstorms
- Start date
I'd take off the silencer and clean the connection real well and put silicone caulk around the joint. Twist it a bit as you put it on then bolt it up and let it dry.
For packing, got to Home Depot and buy a roll of fiberglass from the heating&air dept. I use the 4" x 40ft. roll ($1.50) After taking the old packing from around the baffle, roll your new on working from end to end until you have enough diameter to fill the silencer case. Use plain masking tape in 2 or 3 places to hold the fiberglass in place. Slip it in and bolt it back up.
You may want to do the packing before you do the caulk thing. Easier to pack with it completely off.
Running rich will goo up things but should cause no severe damage. It will soak your packing quick though. You may also want to consider taking your pipe to a radiator shop and have it boiled out. Once you do all this, get it jetted for the fuel you are using and your style of riding.
For packing, got to Home Depot and buy a roll of fiberglass from the heating&air dept. I use the 4" x 40ft. roll ($1.50) After taking the old packing from around the baffle, roll your new on working from end to end until you have enough diameter to fill the silencer case. Use plain masking tape in 2 or 3 places to hold the fiberglass in place. Slip it in and bolt it back up.
You may want to do the packing before you do the caulk thing. Easier to pack with it completely off.
Running rich will goo up things but should cause no severe damage. It will soak your packing quick though. You may also want to consider taking your pipe to a radiator shop and have it boiled out. Once you do all this, get it jetted for the fuel you are using and your style of riding.
Great advice, Jaybird. I would add that as far as the end with rivets, just drill them out and put new ones in. If you don't have a rivet gun or know someone with one, they can be bought (complete with pop rivets) pretty cheap.
Do you have an owners manual for the bike? Some of the books are pretty good at walking you through the jetting. You stand little risk of motor damage with a lean pilot jet, but before you lean out anything else, be sure that you are making the right choice. We would rather see you spooge a bit rather than have a meltdown! Many bikes spooge a bit even when jetted properly, especially if you don't run wide open on a regular basis. Different brands of premix oil have different characteristics as well.
Do you have an owners manual for the bike? Some of the books are pretty good at walking you through the jetting. You stand little risk of motor damage with a lean pilot jet, but before you lean out anything else, be sure that you are making the right choice. We would rather see you spooge a bit rather than have a meltdown! Many bikes spooge a bit even when jetted properly, especially if you don't run wide open on a regular basis. Different brands of premix oil have different characteristics as well.
