Silencer question

[showtime586]

I decided it was time to change the packing on my RM 250 silencer. After disassembling the silencer, I noticed something odd (for me anyway) about the silencer.
The endcap is riveted, but the opposite end had small bolts, so I disassembled the silencer at this point. Much to my surprise, the baffle tube is connected to the end can and not the other end. This is the first one of these I have ever seen this way. I was able to clean the baffle with the silencer cover still around it, but I was just wondering if this is the norm for 250 rm's? I can see where re-assembly will be easier because you wont have to try and get the baffle tube to line up with the endcap, because it is already connected, but I still have never seen this configuration before.

 

[Studboy]

My Stock YZ silencer is like that also. Use silicone when you put it back together or else it will leak.

 

[showtime586]

Do you remove the riveted endcap and wrap the new packing around the baffle pipe, or do you just try and install the new packing with the pipe still inside the cover?
I used to get the packing material that looked like a sheet of home insulation, then my local shop started carrying this newer type of packing that looks like tons of strands of yarn balled together. I got lucky and found some older FMF packing that looks like the insulation stuff, but I am not sure I can get it around the baffle pipe still inside the cover. The other stringy stuff would actually be easier with this configuration than the FMF stuff.

 

[Crash 142]

I'm pretty sure that string packing is for four strokes. I don't think you want to use that for a two stroke. I also don't think you're going to re-pack your silencer correctly by stuffing it in ther without removing the end cap. These are tuned exhausts, I don't think you want to bunch up half of the packing as you're jamming it in, leave half of the silencer empty, and probably be worse off than you were.

I have an 04 RM 250. I drilled out the rivets so I could re-pack with the two stroke packing (the sheet stuff). Then I pop-riveted with rivets that fit loosely - 1/8. They vibrated out in one ride. So I got some 5/32" pop rivets, and they vibrated out in a few rides, so I drilled the holes just a tiny bit bigger, and put in 3/16" pop rivets, and they have been perfect.

 

[MXSparx]

My bad.
I was thinking mine was attached to the end cap. After checking it isn't. Mines pretty much opposite of the RM but in my minds eye it was the same. Sorry.

 

[showtime586]

Crash,
I purchased a package of the stringy stuff from a locla shop. The package says FMF for 2 strokes. The paerts guy says he cannot order the sheet stuff anymore. I will be able to pack the silencer just fine with the stringy stuff. I just hated to drill out rivets when one end cap had screws.

 

[Crash 142]

Showtime,

Sorry if I gave bad info. I did my silencer just a few months ago, and they had the stringy stuff right next to the sheet stuff. The stringy stuff was marked 4 stroke, so I stayed away from it. If you can get your silencer packed uniformly without drilling out the silencer you will be saving some tinkering.

I just checked the FMF website - looks like the stringy stuff is the new high-performance 2 stroke packing, then they have a 3-layered sheet 'set' for standard exhaust packing. So you have the right stuff is seems (if it's the red stuff)